Saturday, September 29, 2007

Nutrition For Small Sized Dogs

Despite their smaller stature, small sized dogs are often the first to speak and the last to back down. They tend to rely on their wit and clever nature to make up for their small physical state. Small Dogs Aren't Just Smaller.

As you might expect, small dogs differ from larger dog breeds in more ways than reduced size. Consider that per pound of body weight, small dogs require higher levels of energy in their diet, while having a much smaller stomach size. In addition, on average small dogs live longer (up to twice as long) as some larger dog breeds.

This longer lifespan means small dogs have a higher risk for experiencing some health conditions that may be associated with advanced age, including: teeth and gum disease, heart conditions, skin conditions, and ear and eye disorders. Lastly, small breed dogs have a smaller mouth and tend to be picky eaters.

Small Dog Nutrition:

Given the small dog characteristics described above, nutrition for small sized dogs should go far beyond a smaller kibble. Their physical health differences are best nutritionally supported by food fully designed for small breed dogs. Key attributes of small breed food are:

Energy Levels:

Specifically, small breed food should be more concentrated with higher protein and fat levels, sourced from ingredients such as chicken, fish, and egg. These high-quality protein sources provide key amino acids that work to help keep your dog's vital organs healthy.

Dental Benefits:

It's also important to look for dental benefits since small dogs are likely to experience oral health problems. Specially formulated premium nutrition can help reduce tartar buildup, thereby improving overall oral health. This will also help maintain your dog's fresh breath.

Immune Support:

As they age, additional stress is put on the dog's immune system. Since small dog breeds typically have a longer lifespan, strong immune support is particularly critical for these dogs. Antioxidants including vitamin E are key nutrients to help keep a small breed's immune system healthy. Also look for beta-carotene, an antioxidant that can help rejuvenate an older dog's immune system-particularly appropriate given a small dog's longer lifespan.

Taste
In terms of palatability, first look for a diet with concentrated nutrition from high levels of animal-based fat and protein, which tends to improve flavor. Also look for a reduced-size kibble, which can help to promote the overall eating experience. A complete and balanced food specifically designed for a small dogs will help ensure your small dog is always at his or her best.

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Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Soothing Your Dog's Fears

Dogs express their fear in different ways. They may bite or scratch, run and hide, tremble or even urinate when afraid. Your job is to figure out what's scaring your dog and help ease and overcome his fears.

Determining why your dog is fearful isn't always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience.

It's essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog's fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation. Most fears won't go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. With time and patience, most fears can be treated using desensitization. Speak to a pet trainer for assistance. To desensitize your dog, repeatedly expose your dog to low levels and for a small amount of time to the stimuli causing him fear.

Reward your dog with treats and praise for his calm behavior in the presence of the stimuli. Gradually increase the exposure to the stimuli. As long as he remains calm, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious over the stimuli, remove the stimuli and proceed at a slower pace. This process may take a long time. You should proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.

Smart Tip: If you have to drag your dog to the car or he trembles uncontrollably during the ride, ask yourself whether you take him in the car only when he has to go to the veterinarian or kennel (or somewhere else that he might find unpleasant). If the answer is yes, take him for a ride around town or go somewhere pleasant, such as a playground. Do this several times so that he gets the idea that a car ride doesn't always lead to a scary place.

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I Love Dogs: Los Angeles- California

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Sunday, September 16, 2007

Your Puppy's Papers

If you're adopting a purebred puppy, the breeder should have the following paperwork in order for you.

The Americal Kennel Club (AKC) registration application: The breeder must have an AKC registration application for each puppy in the litter. Some breeders will hold this form until they receive proof that the puppy has been sprayed or neutered from your veterinarian.

The registration application will have the puppys breed, sex, color, date of birth on it as well as the sire and dams registration numbers and the breeders name and signature. The application is divided into two sections. one section must be filled in by the breeder and the bottom section you will need to complete. Once the form is complete, mail the application back to the AKC along with the registration fee indicated on the form. AKC will mail you your puppy's AKC registration certificate, which is referred to as your puppy's papers.

Pedigree: The breeder should have a copy of the litter's pedigree for you (a pedigree is like a family tree). At least three generations should be recorded on the pedigree, but some breeders list as many as five or six generations. Check the pedigree for titles. Titles show you the quality of the puppy’s bloodline.

Sales contract: In addition to the registration application and the pedigree, the breeder should ask you to sign a sales contract. Typically, a sales contract outlines the breeder's expectations. For example, the breeder may require you to spay or neuter the puppy and to keep it on a leash or in a fenced-in yard when it's outside. The breeder may want to be notified if you can no longer keep the puppy or plan to sell it. (Often the breeder will want a chance to buy the puppy back if for some reason you don't want it anymore.)

Health certificate: You should also receive a health certificate from the breeder's veterinarian stating whether the puppy has had its first series of shots and been de-wormed. Your breeder should also give you your the puppy's medical records, which is simply a recording of the puppy's vaccinations and any other medical care it has received.

Health guarantee: Reputable breeders offer health guarantees to anyone who buys one of their puppies. Health guarantees usually state that you can get your money back within 48 to 72 hours if your own veterinarian finds something wrong with the puppy. In addition, some breeders guarantee that they'll replace the puppy if it develops a congenital (hereditary) illness.

Feeding schedule and medical records: The breeder should have written down the puppy's feeding schedule for you. In addition, he or she should also give you enough puppy food for a day or two. (If you abruptly change a puppy's diet, you'll make it sick. So, you'll have to buy the same brand of puppy food the breeder uses at first.)




Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Friday, September 14, 2007

Choosing A Puppy

If you're choosing a puppy from a litter, begin by evaluating the litter as a whole. If most of the puppies run away from you, don't buy one. Healthy puppies should be happy and playful. They might nibble at your shoes or scamper toward you.

If the litter is behaving normally, look at each of the puppies individually. Cluck your tongue, jingle your car keys, and watch how the puppies react. Don't select the shyest puppy. Shy puppies almost always grow up to be shy adults. Don't select the boldest puppy either. A middle-of-the-road puppy almost always makes the best pet.

Never adopt a puppy unless you're sure it's healthy. Healthy puppies shouldn't cough, sneeze, or wheeze.

Inspect the puppys coast by running your hand over its fur and make sure you don't see any bald spots. While a puppy's coat is certainly nothing like an adult's—it’s thinner and fuzzier—it should be even and soft. Examine the puppy's skin and make certain it's free of red splotches. Make sure the puppy doesn't have fleas.

Examine the puppy's eyes. Young puppies might have blue eyes that will change with age. The puppy's eyes should be clear, however, and they shouldn't be runny.

Make sure the pup's ears are clean inside. If you're buying a purebred puppy and its ears are supposed to prick up, be aware that puppies' ears don't stand for about 12 weeks. In addition, the ears sometimes go up and down during teething.

If you're buying a purebred puppy from a breeder, make sure its hind dewclaws have been removed. If your breed is supposed to have its tail docked, this should already be done, too.


Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso
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Saturday, September 8, 2007

Types Of Dog Toys.

There are toys meant for solo play and toys designed for you and your dog to play together. To keep things interesting, choose a few types of toys from the following list and rotate them often depending on your dog's mood and activity level.

Stuffed Toys:

These soft, plush friends make great companions when your dog is in the mood for quiet snuggle time. Many stuffed toys squeak or make other noises to capture your dog's attention. The most important thing to remember about stuffed toys is to take them out of the rotation when you notice signs of wear like torn seams or loose limbs.

Vinyl or Latex Toys:

Soft, smooth and squishy, vinyl or latex toys are great for older dogs, because they're easy on sensitive teeth and gums. Younger dogs who aren't aggressive chewers will also enjoy them from time to time.

Solid Rubber Toys:

These are the ones for the tough, tenacious chewers. They're built to last and give your dog a good chewing workout. Plus, their interesting shapes will cause them to bounce unpredictably for extra fun.

Treat Dispensing Toys:

These are balls or other shapes designed with hollow areas meant to be filled with treats. They're great for keeping your dog occupied for long periods of time, as they usually won't give up until every last bit of treat is retrieved.




Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Monday, September 3, 2007

8 Hints To keep His Coat Clean

Pet dandruff looks like a really bad case of people dandruff you can easily see it with most animals, says Nancy Scanlan, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Sherman Oaks, California.

While occasionally dandruff can indicate a serious health problem, like, parasites or skin infections, more often it occurs when skin cells naturally proliferate -- form, die and flake off -- at an accelerated rate.

To forego the flakes, here's what experts suggest:

For Dogs And Cats

Take the plunge: Since dandruff is a sign of flaky skin, giving your pet regular baths will help wash the flakes away before they accumulate, says Scott Weldy, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in El Toro, California. Bathing your pet once a month in winter and twice a month in summer may clear up the problem for good, he says.

To bathe your pet, use warm, not hot, water. Use a mild shampoo like baby shampoo and massage it well into your pet's skin. Then rinse thoroughly and dry him well, says Dr. Scanlan.

For cats, the big struggle isn't getting rid of the dandruff, it's getting them into the bath in the first place. For tips, see "How to Give Your Cat a Bath".

Go for more power

If baby shampoo doesn't seem to help, try using a pet dandruff shampoo that contains sulfur or salicylic acid. Leave the lather in place for about five minutes to give the active ingredients time to work, advises Dr. Weldy.

Don't use medicated shampoos made for humans, because they can be harmful for pets, adds Wayne Rosenkrantz, D.V.M., a veterinary dermatologist in private practice in Garden Grove, California. It's also a good idea, when buying shampoo for your cat, to check the label carefully. Products that are safe for dogs may be harmful for cats.
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Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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