Puppy And Dog Training Secrets..

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2010-06-04T23:09:00.001-07:00

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Behavior Dog Training

2010-03-12T21:39:00.000-08:00

If you are a dog owner or perhaps just a dog lover for the moment, you would know how important it is to have a well behaved dog. A dog that has been appropriately trained will not only be free of hassle, but also a pleasure to take out on walks, introduce to people and spend quality time with. This is why it is so very important to incorporate good behavior dog training as part of your pet’s lifestyle to ensure that both owner and pet can enjoy a good relationship throughout the years.

Behavior dog training can either be arranged on a private lesson basis or even in group classes. Group classes for behavior dog training will be useful in helping you teach your dog the basic commands, getting it to socialize and to learn how to deal with the more familiar problems like jumping on people. Some basic commands that would be trained include commands to sit down, stay down and walk on a loose leash.

Private behavior dog training lessons meanwhile will let the instructor focus on behavior problems and obedience training and other problems that you may be experiencing with your dog. These private lessons will be held in the comfort of your own home and the trainer will also help you to design a program so you could continue to train your dog on your own, at your own pace.

Behavior dog training needs to encompass both the owner and the dog as behavior dog training is much about you learning how to train your dog, rather than the instructor training your dog.

Although it is best to start behavior dog training with a puppy, it is not uncommon, nor impossible to have older dogs to be taken through a course of behavior dog training. There are countless places which offer behavior dog training to help you take control of your pet and also ensure that it would be a better companion to you.

The best place to start your search for a behavior dog training club is the American Kennel Club, which has a listing of all training clubs licensed under the AKC..

There are over hundreds of clubs that could provide the necessary training for your dog and the prices across them will vary depending on their reputation and quality. On average however an initial training session or consultation could cost you anything up to $150.

If He Ever Grows Into Those Paws!

2009-06-18T18:45:00.000-07:00

“If he ever grows into those paws”, how many times have you heard this about your puppy, or said it to someone else about theirs? There is a lot of truth to the statement, you can tell a lot about a puppy adult size by the size of his paws. Do not wait until he is so large that he takes you for a walk instead of the other way around. It is necessary to establish control when they are small.

It is imperative to train a dog at least the basics before he gets too large, a dog can start his training as soon as he is weaned. If you cant control him at 2 months and 6 pounds, how can you expect to when he is nine months and 50 pounds, you may end up with your arm out of joint every time you try to walk him. These are the dogs that usually end up relegated to the back yard on a chain, and become aggressive and mean.

Start training your puppy by putting a collar on him, he will scratch and try everything he can to get it off. When he has become used to the collar, add the leash, allow him to drag it around for a few minutes at a time until he no longer objects to it.

When you begin walking him on a leash he will pull against it, this is to be expected. When you can get him to walk on the leash without pulling him along you can start his training. Leash training should never be longer than 15 minutes at a time, 3 or four times a day.

To begin his training approach on the right side and attach the leash, get his attention and begin to walk slowly, keep his right shoulder close to your left leg. If he pulls ahead, give a sharp tug on the lease with the command heel, bringing him back to the shoulder to knee position. When he obeys the command properly give him praise.

Do not get frustrated, if he does not learn the first time always end the training session with a command you know he will follow. Training your dog also involves training yourself, you need to be consistent with the method of training, changing in the middle will only confuse him

House Breaking Your Dog

2009-05-20T18:42:00.000-07:00

One thing I believe is that rubbing a dogs nose in poop does not do anything but cause him to be afraid of you, and to hide his mistakes. Yes, there will be mistakes, they are part of raising a dog, and the key is to make those mistakes as few and far between as possible.

I have found amazing success with the method I use, and it does not cause any pain or fear in the puppy, which is important. Here are the steps I use to housebreak a puppy.

*Always let your new dog go to the bathroom outside before he ever goes in the house. This establishes in his mind where he can go to the bathroom. The next step is to establish where he cant go, which is in your home!

You have to stay in the yard with him until he goes to the bathroom for the first time; this can take a while, but is absolutely necessary in this training method. I do not know how many times I have been asked how to housebreak a puppy that goes outside to play
then comes in the house to use the bathroom.

*When you are in the house, pay close attention to what your puppy is doing, this will take the whole family. If the puppy begins sniffing around, take him outside again until he goes to the bathroom. This can be difficult as a puppy will automatically sniff around a new home.

*When you go to bed at night or leave for any length of time put your puppy in either a kennel, or a box that is just the right size for him to lie down in. A dog will not use the bathroom where they have to sleep. Last thing at night before going to bed, take him outside. First thing in the morning take him outside, the same thing applies when you leave the house.

This is a lot of work, because you have to spend so much time with your puppy, but it is well worth the time. Having a dog is a responsibility and a serious one, take the time to train him and you will have a dog that everyone enjoys being around.

For more detailed tips, please visit.. House Breaking Your Dog

Stopping Your Dog from Jumping on People

2009-04-18T20:36:00.000-07:00

I have always believed, and still do today, that it is never necessary to physically hurt your dog, as a matter of fact, it is against the law to do so. I used to believe that it was alright to smack a dog on the behind with a loosely rolled newspaper, (it really does make more noise than it hurts them) until I did it one day and came home the next day to a shredded newspaper.

It is amazing how far a dog can spread one newspaper in a day. To dogs, they live in a world of giants, and the only way to make eye contact is to jump up, this is not desirable with any dog and can be down right dangerous with a large dog. I have heard many nightmare stories of dogs that jump on people, from the pregnant woman who was knocked down by a Rottweiler to the little girl who was knocked down by a Labrador.

These dogs should have been trainer early on not to jump on people, and were not, at this point it becomes the fault of the owner, not the dog. If you enjoy having your dog greet you in this way, you can teach him later to jump when commanded too, but for now, he must be taught that all jumping is forbidden. I read once about a rattle it is a great training tool which only costs 20 cents and an empty can. Put 20 pennies into an empty can and tape the top shut, this can be used in several types of training situations.

The key to training your dog is to surprise him, using the rattle along with a firm no, will usually redirect his attention to something else, the noise of the can. Keep one at each door of the house and as he gets ready to jump, this is important, shake the can and tell him no in a firm voice.

Using the rattle with no one time and the no alone sometimes will eventually teach your dog to respond to the no rather than the rattle and the no. When he learns to respond to the no only the rattle is no longer necessary.

Obinna Heche is an acknowledged expert in his field and resides in California USA. For more details visit his site at .. http://www.extremesuccessonline.com

Ways To Check Aggression In Puppies

2009-04-02T19:00:00.000-07:00

Dog biting makes up for almost half the claims made under homeowner’s insurance policies. Nearly two thirds of the cases relate to biting incidents that occur with an acquainted dog. At the same time, healthy and well trained dogs are not aggressive and they normally do not bite.

There is evidence of a genetic disposition of dog aggression in certain breeds. However, that is not the only cause of aggressive dog behavior. There are other factors that influence aggressive behavior in dogs and the best way to guard against such a situation is to start dog training when you purchase or accept a puppy.

Select a puppy that suits your family. Puppies that are too shy need large amounts of coaxing in various situations. Shy puppies will need more time in each activity. Before selecting a shy puppy, make sure that you are ready to spend some time with for him.

On the other hand, if you choose a dominant dog, you may require everyone in the family to be authoritative. You can get to know which puppy is dominant or too shy by inspecting the litter. The most dominant will take control of all activity while a too shy puppy will be seen cringing in the corner.

How you train and handle the puppy in the initial weeks is likely to determine whether he will grow up to be aggressive or not. The period from six weeks to eighteen weeks is crucial for all puppies. It needs indulgence on your part in the shape of gentle but firm handling and hand feeding. Teach him to accept food without snapping or lunging even if it amounts to feeding him in your lap.

Initially most puppies tend to jump on people, walk between legs and go after running children or growl excessively. Physical punishment usually proves to be counterproductive in such cases. Instead deny affection by not interacting for some time or scold verbally with an emphatic ‘NO’.

Early socializing is an important part of training. Puppies start developing sensitivity to other dogs and people almost as soon as they open their eyes at three weeks. The next fifteen weeks are crucial and they need to learn socializing skills. During this period they need to be exposed to other dogs and people in a positive manner so that they develop the required skills to be comfortable with people and dogs.

Puppies brought to a new home after ten to twelve weeks find it difficult to adjust to the new family. They tend to be more fearful and fear can lead to aggressive behavior. As new bonds are not developed, the puppy may try to exert dominance over the family as he grows up. The best time to bring a puppy home is in the middle of the learning period.

The teenage years for a dog begin at sixteen weeks. At this age the hormonal surge makes dogs become more protective and assert territorial dominance. If you bring a puppy home near about that age, his inherent breed specific disposition would have already taken root.

In such instances special care is required while handling. Ensure that you or your family handles him frequently but gently. Resist any temptation to release him if he squirms. That is for showing him that you are the master and he cannot dominate you.

Certain breeds evolved as aggressive dogs due to typical jobs they were required to perform in the early stages of domestication. Before bringing home such puppies, realize that they may require professional training.

Obinna Heche is an acknowledged expert in his field and resides in California USA. For more details visit this link ... Checking Aggression In Puppies

How to Keep Your Dog off the Furniture

2009-03-17T17:51:00.000-07:00

This is a problem that is usually started by the owner, who thinks it is so cute to teach the cute little puppy how to jump on the couch, not even thinking of the day when that cute little puppy becomes a 70 pound dog. At that point, since he has been taught that it is alright to jump up, it is really difficult to teach him not to.

I can't tell you how many times I have been dressed up to go somewhere and stopped at a friends house only to sit in a chair covered with dog hair, at least it was covered with dog hair when I got there. There is also the situation of company coming over and the dog wont get off the couch so they can sit down without a battle. Even small dogs can be a problem when they claim a particular piece of furniture as their own, ever try to remove a Chihuahua from a chair that he thinks is his? It can be a very frightening experience.

My Labrador retriever knew she wasnt supposed to be on the couch, and would wait until I was away from home or in bed at night, talk about sneaky. I prefer to use what I call the rattle to train dogs to stay off the furniture, a rattle is simply a can with 15 or 20 pennies in it, tape the top and it is a great noise maker.

I dont remember where I learned this, but it works great. Dogs dont like to be startled, and the rattle works perfectly. If you are fortunate enough to have a dog that jumps up on the furniture in front of you, use the rattle and a firm no, use the no sometimes with the rattle and sometimes without it.

When they learn the no command, the problem of getting on the furniture will end. If your dog waits until you arent around, just put a couple of them along the edge of the furniture, when they jump up they knock off the rattle and it startles them. As with any training for your dog, patience is one of the keys, it takes time, but is well worth the effort.

Obinna Heche: Is an acknowledged expert in his field and resides in California USA. For more details visit his site at http://justforyourdogs.com

Having Sense of Humor About Your Dogs Training Helps

2009-02-28T16:04:00.000-08:00

Trust me when I tell you there are two things you must remember when you are training your dog, these are:

Patience, never get in a hurry when you are training your dog, i guarantee he will pick up on your anxiety and wont learn a thing.

Keep your sense of humor in tact, it will really come in handy during those unexpected training blurbs!

What exactly is a training blurb? Well lets see, its the time when you are teaching your dog to fetch a ball and he brings back the neighbors gardening gloves, with your neighbor still in them. Or housebreaking him and you believe it has been successful, until you walk into the laundry room and realize that he has learned to hide his mistakes, in the laundry pile. These are training blurbs, and you must maintain a sense of humor about them.

You just continue with whatever lesson you are working on, or go back to the one he didn't really learn the first time, like being housebroken. Never loose your temper with him when he makes a mistake, it just reinforces the bad behavior and he will pick up on the anger and frustration you are feeling. If you get mad and chase him, he probably thinks you are playing.

If you take away something he has chewed and give him a rawhide chew, he has learned that by chewing up your favorite shoe, he can get a treat. Dogs are much smarter than most people give them credit for, and like children they are very literal, we need to be aware of this when we are training them, and keep a sense of humor and patience all the time, even during the worst of training blurbs.

Obinna Heche: LA, CA.
To learn more about dog training, obedience, grooming and dog health visit..

http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Heeling Your Dog

2009-02-18T17:32:00.000-08:00

Having your pet join in your outdoor activities is a great deal of fun when your dog remains obediently at your side. It may be easier to teach your puppy to heel without a lead at first, only you will know which method is best for your dog. Puppies love to be with you and will be willing to follow you in most situations. They will also be easy to lead with the smell of food, so carry treats at all times during training. Keep the puppy on your left side at all times to heel, holding his collar attract his attention with
his name.

While walking in a straight line, hold the reward out in front of him, keep your left hand close to the collar and give the command “heel”. Stop, kneel down and give him the command to “wait”, place your left arm under his belly directly in front of the hind legs to keep him from moving forward. Speeding up you pace and slowing it down while you train him will teach him to remain at heel Continue until he has learned the heel and wait commands, now you can teach him to turn with you as you walk.

To teach him to turn right, bend your knees and hold the food near his nose, turn right and repeat the command “heel”, he will be required to speed up to follow you and will follow the smell of the treat with little or no resistance. Teaching him to turn left is a little different; use your left hand at his collar to guide him to the left use the command “steady” hold the treat low and in front of his nose, the puppy will follow.

While training, if he looses concentration, put your left hand inside his collar and bring him back to the correct position. To avoid his jumping up when you stop, hold his collar with your left hand and the treat low in
front of him.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles, CA

To learn more about dog training, obedience, grooming and dog health visit..

http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Handling The Move From A Dogs Perspective

2009-02-04T17:52:00.000-08:00

People seldom realize that a move, whether across the street or across the country is as stressful to their best friend as it is to them. Many people will simply get rid of the dog, taking him to the pound or giving him to a friend rather than go to the trouble or expense of moving him.

Then there are those of us who would rather leave the car behind than the best friend, after all a car can be replaced. You need to realize that to your dog, his home is his territory, his security and leaving it can be very upsetting to him. How many stories have you heard about a dog who traveled hundreds of miles to get back to what he knew was his home? There are even movies about this, and regardless of what you think, these things really do happen.

It is important that as soon as you arrive at your new home, regardless of what else is happening, you let your dog know this is his home. Accomplish this by bringing along his personal items and setting them up before you unpack the dishes. Spend 15 or 20 minutes in the yard with him before entering the house, allow him to explore and mark his territory, this is reassuring to him.

Teach him his boundaries by tying a long lead to his collar, and allow him to explore, each time he starts to cross out of your property line, give a gentle tug on the lead and give the command back. My neighbors love the fact that my dog will not step foot on their property without my permission, and we have no fence between our yards.

And it is very rude to allow your dog to use your neighbors yard as a bathroom. This training should continue several times a day until he recognizes his boundaries. Before moving to your new home, decide where his area in the house will be, put his bed, water and food dish and his favorite toys in this area and show him where it is.

For several days he will spend all of his time checking out the new scents, but will realize that he is home because you are there with him along with his personal items.

To learn more about dog training, obedience, grooming and dog health, dog food and more visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Choosing The Perfect Cage For Your Bird

2009-01-25T15:13:00.000-08:00

All bird cages are homes for our domestic birds. They are constructed to be large enough to accommodate the motion and daily activities of domesticated birds. Lead and zinc must purposely be excluded from the powder coating process of bird cages because they can poison a bird. Play top bird cages are very popular with bird owners who are able to give their bird a lot of supervision outside the cage. With most play top bird cages, you simply need to open the cage door and the bird can climb up to a fully stocked play area with perch, food cups and toys.

Because bird cages are so expensive to ship, you should read the shipping, return or exchange policies of the retailer prior to making your purchase. The Parrot and bird cages are powder coated in antique silver finish and are zinc free to keep your bird safe. The history of the bird cage is tied to the adoption of birds as pets. However, most American bird cages are made from galvanized steel as this is a sturdy material and inexpensive, thus keeping the cost of the cage reasonably low. Some companies prefer to offer bird cages that do not have round wire but have flattened mesh.

Be informed that quality control is very important in the manufacture of bird cages. Many of these cages offered in pet stores and large discount houses are made out of the country where labor costs are about one tenth of labor costs in the United States. Moreover, birds are different than other animals that use cages or crates in this regard because they have regular oral contact with the powder coating that covers the steel bars on their cages. They are messy, so their cages get pretty messy too. In fact bird and owner preference should really dictate which cage top will work best for you.

They are notoriously messy eaters, therefore the location of the food cups within the cage is important. Birds are intelligent creatures that can learn by mimicking what you do or say and as such require a house in which they can fly and have some freedom but still ensures they do not fly away. Bird breeding cages are often made to the specifications of breeders and are designed after observation and feedback from the breeders. Bird cage makers do not manufacture the mesh, instead they purchase it from wire mesh or fencing manufacturers.

Be sure to purchase the largest possible cage that you can afford with the appropriate bar spacing for your birds size. For their overall well being and mental health it is much better they live in the bird equivalent of a mansion not in a shack. Once you have identified some cages that might work for your birds size, you should then consider the bar spacing and bar thickness. It is a well known fact that proper bar spacing is important because having spacing that is too small or rather too large can potentially be unsafe for your bird.

Nevertheless, if the spacing is too large, birds may get their head stuck between the bars or they might even escape. The larger the bird you have, the thicker the bar gauge is required for the cage. Medium to large birds need thicker bars because their beaks are stronger and can bend thinner bars more easily. Because of this unique use of their cage home, powder coated cage manufacturers must pay extra attention to the composition of their powder coating so that it is not dangerous to birds.

Finally, the materials used to build the cages has a lot to do with the price level. Smart birds, like parrots and crows, need secure latching mechanisms to prevent them from figuring them out and often require toys and play stands to keep them entertained. While small cages are relatively cheap, large, parrot sized cages can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Most parrot cages are made with wrought iron and painted with a non toxic paint. Cages are commonly available in plastic, steel with powder coating or stainless steel.

Obinna Heche: LA CA:
Is an acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more free advice on dog cages and more at ... http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Changing Your Dogs Diet

2009-01-15T22:00:00.000-08:00

Adding energy in a dogs diet is indeed necessary when you notice lethargic behavior in your dog. Some people prefer to feed their dog a homemade food for energy. They also require protein for energy in their diet to build muscle. Like people, dogs get energy from vitamins and minerals in their diet. While some need attention from a veterinarian, you can try home or natural approaches to help overcome energy problems and add energy in a dogs diet. Adding charcoal to your dogs diet can help detoxify some of the noxious gases while they are still inside the intestine.

Dogs are able to get energy from carbohydrates in their diet as well as from protein, which is why we are able to feed them diets high in carbohydrates. Feed them too much and they get fat and develop serious health problems. Feed them too little and they become scavengers and eat anything that looks like it might have a taste. Corn, soy and wheat are three of the biggest culprits as far as food allergies in dogs go and finding a brand of dry dog food that is free of these ingredients can be tricky. A change in diet done gradually makes for a more comfortable dog.

Indeed, most dogs eat commercial dog food and most of these foods provide a fairly balanced diet. If your dog has special dietary needs due to a health condition, talk to your veterinarian about the best brand of food to feed your dog. Puppies should be fed a brand of food formulated specially for puppies because they need more protein and fat in their diet than adult dogs.

It is not the same thing as just feeding your dog table scraps, which you should not do. If you want to feed your dog a homemade diet, take the time to learn about nutrition for dogs first. A homemade diet can be very healthy for dogs but it is important that you educate yourself about your dogs nutritional needs. Dogs, if left in the wild would eat primarily protein foods with carbohydrates making up no more than 25% of their diet.

However, commercial dog foods contain anywhere from 25-60% carbohydrates. If dogs get more carbohydrates than they expend in energy, the carbohydrates turn to fat and the dog gains weight. Excess carbohydrates can be unhealthy for your dog. The kind of carbohydrates dogs need for energy are soluble carbohydrates. Soluble carbohydrates are the starchy part of a plant that can be easily broken down in a dogs digestive tract. If they get more protein than their body needs for energy and muscle, it is excreted in the urine.

Also, a change in diet done gradually makes for a more comfortable dog. This means that we have absolutely no intention of incorporating whole grains into their diet. You should know what foods to give that can be eaten to assist weight loss in your dog and what foods should be avoided at all costs. Eating a lifetime diet of processed food places a great demand on their pancreas to produce digestive enzymes.

Nevertheless, behavioral problems such as hyperactivity, listlessness, short attention span and the ability to learn can also be affected by your dogs diet. Be very mindful of what vitamins and other nutrients to add in their foods.

Obinna Heche. Los Angeles - California

An acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more advice on dogs diet and other pet related foods by visiting..
http://www.biggsmall.com

Giving Your Dog Commands

2008-12-30T16:56:00.000-08:00

Short clear commands along with obvious hand signals are the best means of giving your dog commands. Never repeat your command over and over again, it may only confuse him. Start by getting his attention, this is best accomplished by saying his name. How you say the command is also important as is your expression, smile when you are pleased and do not smile when you are unhappy.

Your dog is smart enough to pick up on these things and they should be used in his training. Your posture should be straight with shoulders back, the treat should be held in your closed hand so he is aware it is there. When calling your dog to you, show welcoming body language, arms open wide to welcome him and a happy, friendly voice all combine to let him know it is good for him to come to you.

Verbal commands should be given in a firm voice not shouted, say no sharply and deeply in a lowered voice. The no command should be given as he begins to misbehave. This makes him aware that what he is doing is the activity for which he is being told no. For instance, if he begins to put his paws on you, lower your voice and firmly tell him no. In this, your body language is important, look angry and stand in a commanding stance, leaning slightly over the dog is a threatening stance and you should stand straight.

Hand signals should be clear and concise, they allow you to control your dog even if he is at a distance by calling his name and using dramatic hand signals. A dog will pick up on it if you are becoming bored with a training session, do both of you a favor and be alert. If you need to end the training session, get his attention, give him a command that he can and will follow and release him from the training session with lots of praise and rewards.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles, CA

To learn more about dog training, obedience,grooming and dog health visit..

http://biggsmall.com

Teaching Your Dog To Obey Your Commands

2008-12-17T17:06:00.000-08:00

Dogs, like people in some way try to live up to their image, just like a children and their image for sure is what you want them to be. A dog that is trained with love, affection and attention will do anything in their power and a little beyond, to please you. The first way to damage a dogs self image is to ignore them, feeding a walking a dog is not enough.

They need attention and interaction with their family which is you, to build the image of themselves. Self-confidence building is as important to your dog as it is to you, spend time with them, help them learn to trust you. Another way to damage your dogs self-esteem is to tear them down. Dogs are not stupid, they understand when you are talking about them in unflattering ways and it affects them.

Yelling at a dog does no good to the dog. When training a dog, your voice should always be well modulated, not loud, and you should never have to yell at your dog to get them to obey a command. A dog that is well trained will respond to a whisper and eventually hand signals. Yelling at them tends to make them nervous, and fearful of you, neither of these things is effective when trying to train your dog.

Training your dog should be pleasurable for you and your dog, not a nightmare. Dogs are sensitive and emotional, regardless of size, this needs to remain at the front of your mind any time you are trying to train them. Dogs only learn by their mistakes, just like humans do, how many things in life did you learn because you did it wrong the first time? Dogs are the same way, they learn by doing something wrong the first time.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles, CA

For more info on dog training, dog aggression, grooming visit.. http://biggsmall.com

Expanding Your Dogs Training Area

2008-12-06T11:05:00.000-08:00

Dogs have very short attention spans and so your training sessions should be limited to 15 to 20 minutes a couple of times a day. Never attempt to train your dog if either of you cant concentrate completely on the session. The best time to train a dog is when he is hungry, if he is a very active dog, it may be best to allow him to run a little, and train him when he is a little tired, this does not mean exhaustion!

Stagger his lessons so he doesnt get bored and refuse to get involved in the trainings sessions. Over a short period of time reduce the number of edible and physical rewards, always give verbal praise, regardless of how long he has been training. After he has learned his lessons well in a quiet environment, gradually begin adding distractions and repeat the lessons. Once these lessons are completed indoors, move to a quiet location out of doors and repeat the lessons.

Again, gradually increase the distractions as he shows success at the same lessons he has learned in each of the above situations. Now take him to a busy place and train him there, it may seem repetitive to go over the same lessons each time, but he needs to be trained in each situation. You can not guarantee that every time he needs to follow a command he will be in a quiet indoor place. Refusing to train in other situations is setting your dog up for future failure.

Training sessions should always be ended on a note of success, and with play time. Dont make the mistake of only playing with him when training time is over, he may decide to get the session over with quickly so he can get the play time. Last but not least, training time is not exercise, or the only exercise your dog should get. He needs time to play with you and other dogs that are not connected to his training times.

Obinna Heche: LA CA

For more info about dog training, dog food, dog grooming and other dog related products visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

How To Wash Your Dog

2008-11-22T19:03:00.000-08:00

Even if you have got the most easy care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while so it is worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress free grooming.

Why Should I Groom My Dog

Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime playmate for the household’s children. Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.

Moreover, since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health care. It ensures that any skin care problems are minimized because grooming distributes the natural skin oils evenly throughout the coat and assists you in monitoring your dogs overall condition. If you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.

However, this preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run. The trick is getting your dog to tolerate and even enjoy the process …

The first Step In The Grooming Process

Surely, something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry grooming brushing and buffing the coat seems to present little problem for most people. The rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix. Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed and in many cases will become utterly panic stricken when the tub comes out. This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that will keep both of you relaxed and happy.

Preparing For Grooming

First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation but of course not all of us have this luxury, if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can. As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it.

Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives. It should not take long before she begins to trust you and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch. All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and if she will let you, give each one a gentle squeeze treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this.

since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs. If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers. Get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks. This might not seem like such a big deal but it is actually a really important part of the grooming process. The more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you and so the more often you’re likely to groom her, which increases the health benefits for her.

Washing Your Dog

Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat. You will need some basic tools like a tub, a non slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo not human shampoo. The pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin. Stand her in the tub, on the non slip mat. If she is a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess either that or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar and the other end to the faucet.

Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she is good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing. Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dogs fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather but don’t be too harsh. Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here. Dogs eyes are sensitive too and if you get any water in her ears, she will probably get an ear infection. You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening.

Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off. Dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly. Now it is time to rinse. Using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.

Now you will need to dry her off. If she has got short fur, you can use a towel. An old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two. For dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling off first and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it is set on low heat and hold it far away from your dogs fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.

Be Calm

Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic. Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well modulated, low and even keep your movements slow and deliberate. Praise her lavishly for good behavior and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her. The more she enjoys the process, the easier it will be for you.

For More Information

Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid, even the canine Heimlich maneuver, you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health. It is a survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life saving dog care, this manual keeps your dogs health and well being firmly within your control which is exactly where you want it to be.

To be the best and most responsible owner you can be, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health. You can visit the website by clicking on the link below.

Ultimate Guide to Dog Health

Obinna Heche. Los Angeles - California

http://biggsmall.com

Disciplining Your Dog

2008-11-19T19:06:00.000-08:00

Constant encouragement is a requirement when you are training your dog. Food, treats, toys and praise and contact are the rewards your dog should be given. Punishment should never be physical, it is not necessary, he will respond much better to your love and affection. Dogs want to please those they love, loving them in return you will find an ease in training that will surprise you. Rewards should be along the following lines:

Food, a tasty treat will go a long way in rewarding your dog for his training successes. Hold the treat above his nose to get his attention, it is much easier to train a dog once you have his attention. Food rewards are best used when your dog is hungry.

Your touch is one of your dogs favorite rewards. They are very important in training. Praise him often during training, along with long strokes to his body, do not make the mistake of patting your dog on the head, it is a dominant gesture and should never be used as a reward. Always stroke him along the length of his body.

Toys are another great training tool, it wont take long for you to find out which are his favorites. As an incentive show him the toy and make eye contact with him by holding the toy above his head. If he misbehaves there are several means of discipline.

One means of discipline is isolation, this should only be done for a very limited time, a few minutes is sufficient, as it may cause him to feel as though he has been deserted. He loves contact and communication with you, and being isolated will make a big impression on him. Never tie him up and relegate him to the backyard for life, it may result in aggressive even vicious behavior.

My favorite discipline is what I call the rattle, I dont remember where I learned this, but it is a great training tool. Put 15 or 20 pennies in an old can and tape the top shut, a vigorous shake will make a lot of sudden and unpleasant noise.

When a dog is misbehaving, an unpleasant surprise will put his attention on you and off what he is doing wrong. Plan to have several rattles around your home.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To learn more on how to discipline your dog. Click Here

Early Training for Puppies

2008-11-16T17:31:00.000-08:00

The mother as well as his brothers and sisters have already had a great deal to do with developing your puppys personality long before you acquire him. If mom was a dog that barked to get attention, then her pups will probably do the same thing. Between three and twelve weeks are the most critical in developing a dogs personality.

Eight weeks of age is the best time to get your puppy. Giving him the most diverse experiences in the following month will assure a fruitful and satisfying training program for both of you. Make sure that your pup meets a wide variety of people during this month take him with you whenever possible, unless the vet tells you otherwise, to friends houses and just for rides.

Let him play with other dogs iyou know they are healthy, and allow him to meet children and other adults whenever possible. Provide your pup with lots of toys, this provides a lot of mental and physical stimulation, which puppies need. Figure out which are his favorite toys and plan to use them when his training starts. While playing with your puppy, pay attention, if he begins to sit, issue the sit command, when he follows the command, praise and reward him.

Playing is healthy for your puppy, but you should always be in control of these games. Immediately award him when he does something he has been commanded to do. Rewards should include stroking and petting, rather than just food, as you do not want him to grow up thinking he should only obey when offered food.

Dogs retain the activities they are raised with, if they are carried everywhere as puppies, they will believe that when they need comfort as an adult, they should be carried. Puppies require lots of mental stimulation between 3 and 12 weeks, this allows them to grow into adept adults at learning and problem solving.

One person in the family should be the mother as puppies learn by watching their mother. Try to keep the amount of fear they feel to a minimum, fear learned as a puppy can develop into phobias later in life. Raising a healthy well adjusted puppy will make his and your life better.

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Dogs Do Get Bored, Just Ask Dozer

2008-11-03T19:18:00.000-08:00

Dogs get bored, Dozer is a well loved 3 year old Jack Russell Terrier, she gets to go with Dad to work, and almost every where else he goes, but sometimes she gets left at home. Dozer tends to chew things up, usually when she is left home alone, bored dogs may even go to the extreme of chewing on themselves!

Toys are an excellent way to deal with Dozers boredom, she has favorite toys, as do all children. It is important to put down four or 5 of her favorite toys just as you leave the house, and pick them up as soon as you return. This brings her attention to the toys, and away from other things she may chew on. These are special toys, they are all new each time you leave, and are only there when she is alone, they will keep her engaged for hours.

However, dogs have a very short attention span, which is why it is vital to put down a number of toys rather than just one. Another way to teach your dog to deal with boredom, which can also be caused because she is lonely, is to leave the television or radio on to a talk show.

Human voices are soothing to dogs, and Dozer likes to hear human voices a lot. However, if your dog has a vitamin or mineral deficiency no amount of training will stop her from chewing, this must be dealt with by the veterinarian.

Things that indicate a vitamin or mineral deficiency are:

*Eating your houseplants

*Eating dirt or garbage

*Eating her own stool or that of other animals

Your veterinarian can tell you many things about your dog, and if you are trying to train your dog something and she just wont learn, make sure there is no physical reason before giving up on her.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To learn more about dog training, dog behaviour, dog food, dog health and Dog Care Visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

The Ultimate House Training Guide

2008-10-01T20:10:00.000-07:00

What Is It?

This handy manual is a comprehensive guide to what’s arguably the most widespread, challenging and frustrating issue faced by any and all dog-owners- house training. Has any aspect of dog ownership ever been so widely misunderstood and unanimously dreaded?

Theories both unhelpful and just plain wrong positively abound on the topic. You can find a veritable vortex of conflicting arguments almost anywhere you choose to seek information on the subject, whether it’s online (or the staggering variation on the The Only Way To House train Your Dog theme to be found here), at your local library, through contact with dog trainers, or through the less reputable but nevertheless prolific ranks of quack dog trainers aka, those frustrating people sans qualifications, but with enough smugness and pseudo-savoir faire to fool the less suspicious of us into handing over our hard-earned dosh.

What Sets This Book Apart?

After several confounding and increasingly-frustrated hours spent trawling through the virtual minefield of conflicting information on this subject, it was with a heady mixture of joy and near-tearful relief that I stumbled across an online book entitled -The Ultimate House Training Guide, by Martin Olliver. As the title suggests, literally all aspects of the subject are covered, and in a manner both chatty and educational – it’s kind of like having a friendly conversation with a knowledgeable canine behaviorist with the added benefit of being able to refresh your understanding of the matter at any given time, simply by scrolling back to the relevant section.

The tone of the book presents a welcome contrast to the illogicalities so freely available elsewhere on the Net and, indeed, in most repositories of canine expertise. It’s friendly, informative, and above all, commonsensical. No gimmicky recommendations, poorly-disguised marketing ploys, or too-brief Q&A sessions here: you don’t have to be experienced in canine behavior and training to see that this guy knows what he’s talking about and did I mention he’s a vet?

What’s Actually Included?

There’s a quick section on the tools of the trade patience, persistence, consistence, and common sense along with some morale-boosting advice on how to keep your cool through the training process, and then it’s straight into the meat of the matter. The nitty-gritty on how to house train, with a detailed section one for pups, one for older dogs) on each of the three methods recommended paper-training, crate-training, and the direct method.

Common house training problems are dealt with next – this is particularly handy! A huge variety of issues are covered, from territorial marking to poop-eating; and on top of that, each problem comes with a case study, which helps you to put the information into context.

Next, health-related problems are covered in some depth. There’s a section on congenital problems (problems your dog was born with), a section on the disease-related problems that develop later in life; and a section on other problems related to house training, like inappropriate outdoor elimination, or lawn-burn from urination.

Finally, there’s the Top Ten Tips for hassle-free house training, which is essentially a recap of the most helpful and necessary attitude adjustments, practical tips, and useful nuggets of general knowledge which will come in most handy in your dog’s training.

Just Because It’s Detailed Doesn’t Mean It’s Confusing

Sound like a handful? It’s actually very user-friendly. Not only is this book packed with sound practical advice, but the whole thing is laid out in a very logical and easy-to-understand format. The tone is light and non-threatening, no confusing terminology or strange gaps in logic and it proceeds in a logical manner from step to step, with the assistance of helpful how-to illustrations from the book’s charming mascot (a pooch called, of all things, Spot-Less).

Troubleshooting

In my opinion, one of the best parts: a free, personalized email consultation with the team at Kingdom of Pets. If you’d like additional help with your own dog’s toilet-related vagaries, just flick them off an email and you’ll get an individualized professional opinion on how best to handle the problem - plus any additional tips and strategies necessary to get your house training under control.

The Verdict

House training a dog is an intimidating task for most people, but the author’s depth of knowledge is pretty reassuring; and he certainly knows how to break it down for even the greenest of owners. In addition to the main sections detailed above, there are plenty of tempting extras included to make the process as easy and effective as possible: checklists, do’s and don’ts, how to appropriately deal with “accidents”, even a list of the more helpful training products available.

All in all, two thumbs up from me: when the information on hand is as detailed, easy to absorb, and - above all – reliable as The Ultimate House Training Guide, you really can’t go wrong. May your dog’s initiation to house training proceed Spot-Lessly.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Ways To Stop Your Puppy From Biting

2008-09-20T00:09:00.000-07:00

Many Dog owners have been trying to stop puppies from biting without knowing why puppies bite in the first place. By understanding why your puppy bites is the first step in training him not to bite.

The main reason why puppies bite is as a result of Puppy Teething. Puppies jaws are weak and as a result of new teeth they gnaw, mouth and even play-bite to sooth the gums around the teeth. This combination of weak jaws with extremely sharp, needle like teeth, can result in numerous play bites which, although painful, seldom cause serious harm. The developing pup, therefore, receives ample feedback regarding the force of its bites before it develops strong jaws which could inflict considerable injury. The greater the pup's opportunity to play-bite with people, other dogs and other animals, the better the dog's bite inhibition as an adult.

Puppy Socialization:

Proper puppy socialization is important when teaching your dog bite inhibition. Your puppy is a blank slate and needs to be taught proper behavior around humans and other animals. Once she is taught proper behavior, it will carry into adulthood. For puppies that do not grow up with the benefit of regular and frequent interaction with other dogs and other animals, the responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lies with the owner.

All puppies love to play by being mouthy and biting or chewing anything they can get their sharp little teeth into. These sharp teeth are the reason that it is crucial for puppies to learn bite inhibition (controlling the force of their bite) during the first few months of life. Normally this is learned naturally and effectively through contact with mom and other littermates. If the puppy bites mom during nursing, mom can roll the puppy over to correct it or just get up and walk away. Most young puppies do not aggressively bite. If you have an aggressive puppy, you should give very serious consideration about keeping such a dog. Puppy aggression may lead to dangerous behavior as an adult dog if not properly handled.

Next the owner must realize that the puppy does not know how to act around humans. The puppy has not had much life experience outside of its interactions with its canine family. Proper socialization techniques are crucial at this stage of your puppys development.

Stopping The Bite:

The best way to start teaching your puppy to stop its biting is to do what his littermates would have done were they in the same position. Puppies usually learn bite inhibition from their mothers and littermates. When a puppy bites its littermates, they will yelp and go away. This same method can be applied by you. As soon as your puppy starts to bite, you should give a loud, yelping OUCH! Glare at the pup, get up and move away. This way you can start ignoring behaviors you don't like. Be persistent with this method and advise your family to do the same.

If your pup does not change then you can start applying the "Time Out" method. You just leave the room or take him into his crate. Another way to use this method is this; when your puppy bites, say "no" and gently hold its mouth shut. This will teach him to keep his mouth shut. Since the puppy is a social creature, saying no, yelping, holding his mouth or walking away will teach him that he will lose his playmate.

An important fact about the above two methods is to maintain eye contact with your pup when saying "no" and also watching the tone of your voice. Your tone should be in the form of a command, sharp and to the point. Emitting a growling tone will convey the message in his language.

Your duty as a puppy owner is to plan a response to active puppy teething that will soften the impact on you and your possessions. The best way to do this is to provide your pup with better chewing alternatives instead of your fingers and limbs. You can buy toys like hard rubber balls, sterilized or nylon bones and knotted ropes from pet supply stores. In a low voice you can say "no" then remove her into a neutral area where you can give her any of the above stated toys or others to play with.

Praising your puppy whenever she behaves well is one of the best ways to teach her what's right. She will surely want to continue getting the praise. So when she plays nicely and appropriately, praise the action. Another method is teaching the "off" command. You get a puppy's dry food. Hold a handful and close your hand with it then say "off." Note what happens. After a few seconds, if your puppy has not touched your hand, say "take it" or "OK" and give him a piece of food. The lesson you are teaching him here is that "off'' means not to touch.

Teach all your family members not to play any rough games like tug of war or wrestling which may encourage aggressive behavior like biting. Also teach them to be consistent with the "no biting" rule. With everyone working together, you will achieve a well behaved, well adjusted puppy and ultimately, adult dog.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Training, Dog Food, Dog Health and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Dog Training - What Is On His Mind

2008-08-28T19:49:00.000-07:00

Dogs need physical and mental stimulation as well as companionship, it is rare for a dog to have a pack leader mentality, most are comfortable and feel very safe and secure following their leader, which is you. Every dog, like every person has its own distinct personality, this causes the difference in their ability to be trained, how intelligent they are and how much patience they have during their training.

Dogs are our best friends because they are the animal most willing to live in our “pack” and converse with us. Dogs thinking is very logical, they are pack animals and respect and react to the pack leader, they are usually only interested in comfort and survival.

To them food is survival and this makes food a great tool for training. Remember however that smaller dogs are frequently pickier about their food, and require less, so finding a special treat for them is best. Larger dogs are less particular and most any type of food will work to train them, there are hundreds of treats on the market, it is better not to use human food for training. When training your dog, food is used to reward him for his good manners.

Dogs are very intelligent and it is easy to use their natural instincts and actions as part of their training regimen. For instance my dog does a trick called bow pretty I taught her this when she would put her front legs down and her hind end in the air whenever we would play. She learned this very fast because it was something she did naturally.

Dogs will seek comfort from contact with you, however, dogs that have thinker coats often seem more distant, when in reality they are simply seeking a cool place to spend their time. It may be easier to train this type of dog during the cooler evening hours.

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://biggsmall.com/pets.html

Pancreatitis In Companion Animals

2008-06-22T14:28:00.000-07:00

The pancreas serves two main functions in the body, producing insulin that enables the body to utilize and store glucose and producing pancreatic enzymes essential for the digestion of food. Problems with pancreatic function can cause either diabetes, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, or pancreatitis. Pancreatitis is an inflammation of the pancreas usually resulting in pancreatic enzymes leaking into the abdomen.

It occurs in both dogs and cats, but is most common among overweight, middle aged dogs. Pancreatitis can be acute or chronic and can be anywhere from mild to quite severe, painful, and life threatening. Companion animals with mild pancreatitis may be treated at home while those with severe disease will require hospitalization and intensive care. Chronic pancreatitis can reoccur, or eventually lead to diabetes.

A high fat diet, obesity or injury can bring on pancreatitis. Overuse of corticosteroids, sulfa containing antibiotics, certain chemotherapy drugs, anti convulsants, or diuretic drugs can also contribute to pancreatitis as well as exposure to organophosphate insecticides. Pancreatitis may be an indication of other underlying disease issues such as kidney or cardiovascular disease or possibly a bacterial infection. Animals with a hypothyroid condition, Cushings disease, or diabetes are predisposed to pancreatitis. Miniature Schnauzers are more prone to developing pancreatitis than other breeds.

Pancreatitis may develop after an animal gets into the garbage or is offered a large amount of fatty leftovers from the thanksgiving dinner feast. Symptoms in dogs can include depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, or diarrhea. They may have a distended or painful abdomen which can cause restless behavior, panting or a resistance to lying down. Mild pancreatitis is harder to detect since the dog may just appear a bit reserved with a depressed appetite. If the pancreatitis is mild and chronic, he may seem cross and more aggressive than normal due to chronic pain and feeling poorly.

Cats with pancreatitis do not generally show obvious symptoms, but rather seem depressed or withdrawn, have a poor appetite and may have a fever and an elevated heart rate. They are not as likely to have abdominal pain or vomit. Prevention, as always, is the best course. Feeding a properly balanced, high quality diet with regular exercise is the key. Exercise improves digestion and helps keep your companion’s weight under control.

The treatment of pancreatitis can vary greatly depending on the severity and duration of the illness. If the symptoms are severe enough to include vomiting or diarrhea, an immediate trip to the veterinarian is essential. Hospitalization will likely be necessary for the administration of fluids and monitoring of the animal’s condition. As pancreatitis can also be very painful, pain management is an important consideration.

Mild pancreatitis is more easily managed at home, that is after a visit to your companions veterinarian for a proper diagnosis. After an initial, mild attack of pancreatitis you will likely be advised to withhold food for several days. Cats cannot be fasted as long as dogs, so they may need to be fed intravenously or through a tube in the intestine.

Light broths in small amounts may be permitted, along with distilled water offered frequently in small portions. This allows the pancreas to rest and begin the healing process. Food will be reintroduced gradually in very small portions in the beginning. The diet should be very low in fat and any foods the animal seems to react to should then be avoided. A home made diet is ideal for animals with pancreatitis.

It is often recommended to feed grains separately from meats, or not at all as the pancreas must produce different enzymes in order to digest different foods, so feeding simpler meals will ease the work of the pancreas. Animals prone to or recovering from pancreatitis should be fed more frequent meals with small portions rather than two larger meals each day. Food should be at room temperature for optimal digestion and less stress on the pancreas.

Digestive enzymes are a very important supplement for animals that have experienced pancreatitis, as are probiotics (NF Spectra). Antioxidants (Vetri Science Antiox and Cell Advance) and vitamins (Only Natural Pet Super Daily), such as selenium, A, B complex, C, and E may help the healing process and strengthen the pancreas. Essential Fatty Acids are recommended as well, even though they are higher in fat, EFA’s can also contribute to healing and strengthening the pancreas.

The liver can be adversely affected by an attack of pancreatitis when the enzymes seep into the abdomen, and may also be stressed by the higher level of toxins in the system. Support of the liver with Milk Thistle (Only Natural Pet Liver Boost) may be useful for animals recovering from pancreatitis. Vaccinations should be minimized or avoided for any animal with pancreatitis. Diet changes should always be very gradual for animals prone to pancreatitis as well.

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Does My Dog Need Exercise

2008-06-08T14:04:00.000-07:00

Ausha is my best friend, a 10 year old Labrador retriever; she is smart as a whip, and very loving. It has been such a joy having her in my life, but now she is 52 years old, (a dog is 7 years old the first year and 5 years old each year after that). She has slowed down, and does not get the natural exercise she used to just by being a puppy.

Training Ausha to get exercise also involves training me, which is not always easy. It is imperative however that she get this and it is really good for me too. It was unfortunate that it took me a while to realize that Ausha was not her slim trip self anymore, as with anything else, if it happens slowly it does not always get noticed.

When she started having trouble with her hips, the vet told me that she had severe arthritis, and she needed to loose a little weight, about 20 pounds. I was in shock, this had never been a problem before, but she had never been physically limited in what she was able to do before.Now, we are both on an exercise program for our mutual health, and it is showing.

Ausha has lost that extra 20 pounds and I am loosing a little myself, which has been a side benefit. We started with a trip to the vet, to make sure she was able to exercise. I was told to start easy because of her hips, and if she started showing signs of physical stress we should slow down.

We started by taking walks around the block, slow, easy and enjoyable walks for both of us. Gradually we increased to a brisk walk, 3 days a week and our regular slow, easy walk 2 nights a week. I have a friend that owns a ranch, a couple of days a month we go out
there and she too runs with the ranch dogs. She has actually become more active in the last few months on her own.

She looks forward to our walks now, and will bring me her leash if I forget, its great when you train your dog to take care of themselves. It has been one of the more enjoyable lessons we have had, because it is together, and we both love spending time together.

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Do Dogs Have Emotions

2008-05-25T14:54:00.000-07:00

Dogs have emotions, they are living creatures, therefore they have feelings, the problem comes when the owner doesnt recognize them and deal with them as needed. Some things a dog does are related to stress in his life and they need mental stimulation to deal with these problems before they become really big problems.

People always say that my dog feels what I feel, they dont know how true this is, a dog not only feels your anger and joy, he also feels your fear and your stress. When you fight with your spouse, you dogs feels the stress, when you come home from a frustrating day at the office, he feels that frustration, and may very well take the blame for this on himself. http://ujoinfree.com/?id=28

Anyone, whom a dog has ever owned knows dogs have emotions, they can become depressed, when we are gone for any period of time they miss us and get lonely. They will frequently get into trouble when we leave them alone for long periods of time, because they get bored, just like children. It is our responsibility to protect their feelings and emotions just as it is our responsibility to feed and water them.

Dogs need mental training as well as physical training, tender loving care is the best mental training you can provide for you pet. Show them often and well how much they are loved and needed in your life. Training your dog is a wonderful way to spend time with them, and it has the added return of giving you a well-behaved, emotionally sound dog.

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I cant tell you how many people have told me they would love to have my dog, she has been well trained and is a loving caring dog. Her training started when she was 6 weeks old, once a dog is weaned they can start their training. When they are trained consistently from the time they are very young, they become the kind of dog anyone would like to have, loving, gentle and a great deal of fun to be around.

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Dealing With A Lonely Dog

2008-05-09T17:09:00.000-07:00

Our dogs are pack animals. They’re highly sociable creatures with a genuine need to socialize and interact. Because we humans have done such a bang up job in domesticating our canine friends, socialization with other dogs isn’t enough for your friend: you are the center of your dog’s world. She needs to spend time with you. Of course, this is sometimes easier said than done. Life, for most of us, is pretty busy, and at times it’s difficult to find genuine pleasure in performing the most basic of caretaking tasks for our dogs. When time is short, responsibility becomes a burden.

It’s even worse when added responsibilities or increased demands on our time begin to detract from the quality of the time we do spend with our dogs. If other stresses are weighing heavily on your mind, everyday pleasures with your dog can morph from a joy into a headache, the half hour walk after work is just one more thing to get through, rather than an opportunity for you both to unwind and spend some time together in mutual, tacit admiration of the natural world.

Whether we like it or not, the lifestyles that we choose (to a certain extent, anyway) to put ourselves through a general dearth of time, moderate to high stress levels, job anxiety, shifting personal commitments affect our dogs as well as ourselves. Sensitive pooches can become so negatively impacted by the less than positive frame of mind held by their owners that they themselves become depressed and anxious.

Other, more well adjusted dogs suffer through isolation when obligations are pressing. The twice daily dog walk can be the easiest thing to relegate to the back of the line (your dog can hardly raise his voice in outrage, can he?). Making time for our dogs isn’t always as easy as we would like it to be. But it doesn’t have to require a huge input of time or a Herculean amount of energy. There are ways that we can include our dogs in our lives without spending minutes and hours that we don’t have.

Here are a few suggestions:

Bring her along with you. When you’re running errands, picking up the mail, dropping children off to music lessons, soccer and Little League, stopping by at work, your dog will jump at the chance to come along. Even if she stays in the car, the opportunity to get out of the house and enjoy a change of visual and olfactory scenery will be genuinely welcomed by her and it’s a good way for the two of you to spend some casual one on one time together.

If your errands involve other people (ferrying kids around, picking up a spouse, visiting a friend), accompanying you can go a long way towards meeting her social requirements for the day, too. (Tip: if you’re going for the Big Grocery Shop, or plan on doing something else that requires an extended absence from the car, best to leave her at home – any more than half an hour alone in the car is pushing the boundaries of responsible ownership for most dogs.)

Invite her into the bedroom. You don’t have to ask her up on the bed with you, she can sleep on her own dog bed, either in the corner of the room (most dogs prefer to sleep with something at their backs) or next to your bed. This is a fantastic way of spending down time with your dog (you’re both enjoying the same pastime in an undemanding way), and of increasing your bond, too. Dogs like to sleep with their pack. As pack animals, they’re hardwired to enjoy close contact with others during their most vulnerable hours. It reinforces their sense of togetherness and security. By allowing your dog into your bedroom at night, you’re fostering closeness with your friend. And it’s easy, too!

Spend time in mutually enjoyable activities. Walking the dog becomes a chore when its boring if you’re enjoying yourself, you’ll be more likely to devote more time to it, which is good news for your dog, yourself, and your relationship with each other. Don’t feel like you have to limit yourself to the same old twenty minute circuit round the park break out and explore new territory. As much as dogs love to reinvestigate familiar turf, they appreciate new sights and sounds too, so try the riverbank, the dog beach, a different park, dog exercise yards (you get to chat with other owners, too, while your dog makes new friends), hill trails, or go for a walk downtown with your friend on a leash, of course.

Perfect the art of multi tasking. Whenever I’m cooking dinner or reading a book, my Rottweiler plumps himself down about two feet away from my ankles and stares at me dolefully from under wrinkled, upslanted brows. This used to bother me: I could almost sense the waves of silent accusation wafting off him. Why aren’t you playing with me? I felt like he was asking. “How come whatever that is gets your attention when I don’t? As much as I love him, I still feel that I’m entitled to my one or two chapters a night (and a well cooked dinner), so I decided to counteract the tear-jerking expression on his face by learning to multi task.

So now, cooking time is also training time. I use the momentary hiatus in between stirrings and choppings to practice Sit and Down. Reading time has become read and cuddle time, we sprawl on the couch together, I get to relax and read my book, and he gets his tummy rubbed while he snoozes. If I had a TV, I’d use my TV watching time for grooming time, too. Counteract the one man dog tendency. If you live in a multi-person household, it makes things easier on you if you can share the responsibility around a bit. It’s healthier for your dog too. The more she interacts with the people that she lives with, the better.

You can share responsibilities like walking, playtime, feeding, and grooming. The more social stimulation your dog gets, the happier she’ll be. If you have children in the household, the amount of responsibility they get is really best decided on a case by case basis. Some younger children are perfectly OK to walk the dog, but some can find the experience traumatic and scary which makes it unsafe for the dog, too. As a general rule of thumb, before allowing a child out of doors and unsupervised with a dog, make sure you’re OK with how the dog and the child interact.

The dog should obviously know that the child ranks above her in the social hierarchy of the household, and obey her commands reliably. The child should be able to handle herself confidently with the dog, and know the basic rules of dog walking etiquette (leash laws, poop scooping, dog on dog social protocol, and so on). Obviously, these tips aren’t intended as a substitute for that quality and quantity of time together that your dog lives for and that makes life as a dog-owner so rewarding and fun, too.

Your dog still needs to spend active, focused time with you in training, playtime, general cuddling or manhandling, and exercise. But with a little forethought and effort, you can go a long way towards ensuring her emotional and psychological welfare without adding too much to your own workload.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care and everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://pet-services.eoltt.com

Do Dogs Have Emotions

2008-04-27T14:59:00.000-07:00

Dogs have emotions, they are living creatures, therefore they have feelings, the problem comes when the owner doesnt recognize them and deal with them as needed. Some things a dog does are related to stress in his life and they need mental stimulation to deal
with these problems before they become really big problems.

People always say that my dog feels what I feel, they dont know how true this is, a dog not only feels your anger and joy, he also feels your fear and your stress. When you fight with your spouse, you dogs feels the stress, when you come home from a frustrating
day at the office, he feels that frustration, and may very well take the blame for this on himself. Shop Online @ the Worldwide Mega Shopping Mall

Anyone whom has ever owned knows dogs have emotions, they can become depressed, when we are gone for any period of time they miss us and get lonely. They will frequently get into trouble when we leave them alone for long periods of time, because they get bored, just like children.

It is our responsibility to protect their feelings and emotions just as it is our
responsibility to feed and water them. Dogs need mental training as well
as physical training, tender loving care is the best mental training you can provide for you pet. Show them often and well how much they are loved and needed in your life.

Training your dog is a wonderful way to spend time with them, and it has the added return of giving you a well-behaved, emotionally sound dog. I cant tell you how many people
have told me they would love to have my dog, she has been well trained and is a loving caring dog. Her training started when she was 6 weeks old, once a dog is weaned they can start their training.

When they are trained consistently from the time they are very young, they become the kind of dog anyone would like to have, loving, gentle and a great deal of fun to be around.

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Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://dog-obedience-training-zone.eoltt.com

Dealing With the Excessive Barker

2008-04-15T20:27:00.000-07:00

Dogs communicate with barks, and if your dog is barking, there is usually a reason for it. Dogs may hear something that we cant, or they may just bark out of boredom, he may bark just to hear sounds and stay busy. If you give your dog lots of exercise, toys, attention and have made your yard very interesting teaching him not to bark should be fairly easy.http://moremoneyeverywhere.com/shop

Start his training with his collar and leash, if he barks while on the leash a sharp jerk and a firm no will show him that his barking is wrong. Graduate to the more advanced
methods of training if it is necessary. Gradually a firm no will be the only correction that is needed, and your neighbors will be lots happier.

If he barks only when you are not home, try leaving your radio on a talk station, this may convince him that you are there and keep him quiet. If this fails, tape a normal
family discussion on evening, you will need a continuous play tape to use this method, every once in a while, throw in the word “no”.http://programhoppers.com/13224

When you leave, play the tape, it will remind him that there is always someone around, and that he isnt supposed to bark. If all else fails, pretend you are leaving the house for the day, be very accurate in your actions, even jingling the keys to make him
think you have locked the door. You will need to be a really good actor as dogs are very perceptive, and will pick up on it if you arent.

Have a cut lemon handy, when he begins to bark, open the door and say a sharp no, then put a drop of lemon of some other bitter liquid on his tongue, This will have to be done numerous times to get the point across to him, it takes time, but is well worth the effort.http://homeincomeportal.com/obhmy365

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Why Do Dogs Dig?

2008-04-06T12:55:00.000-07:00

In no particular order, here are some of the more common reasons that a dog will dig. Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of that nervous energy.

Boredom. Bored dogs need a job to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by. Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise empty day. The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it is nearly impossible to confine them. For a four legged Houdini, it is not the digging in itself that is the reward, it is the glorious unknown that exists beyond the fenceline.

Separation anxiety. To a dog that is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs but because it is so complex, we will not be dealing with it in details now. Instead, you can find excellent resources for both preventing and coping with these conditions and Curbing the habit.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://sitstayfetch.eoltt.com

Five Easy To Start Pet Businesses

2008-03-30T18:22:00.000-07:00

If you are a dog lover and would like to begin your own pet business, here are five easy pet business ideas that may be just what you are looking for. These five jobs include. Dog washer, pet sitting, pet photography and pooper scooper service and dog day care. These five jobs offer the fun of being around mans best friend and making some money to take to the bank. Below is a more detailed explanation of each job.

Dog Wash

Similar to a car wash, you would run a dog wash. This is something that children will often try to accomplish for money but can be turned into a serious money making business. You would need a tub and water of course, as well as dog shampoo and towels. Possibly a blow dryer will be needed if you choose to work indoors. You can print your own flyers or brochures from home and pass them out or hang them up in local stores on the community bulletin board. The average cost for start up items can easily be purchased under $200.00 minus brochure papers and ink. People are not very fond of washing their own pets or the wet dog odor. If your prices are fair you will easily have yourself more than a handful of customers.

Pet Sitter

Pet sitting requires very little effort other than time and basic pet care. A pet owner may need to go away on business or vacation and need someone to care for his or her beloved pet. It could be a few days or a couple of weeks. You can offer to care for the pet at the owners home or to care for the pet out of your own home or business. Walking, watering, feeding and affection are all that are truly needed for this pleasant job.

Pet Photographer

For those pet owners that truly love their pets it is likely they have photos of their dog or cat at home. Being able to have a portrait of their pets would be very appealing. A snapshot of Sparky catching a Frisbee or a lovely photo of Snowball curled up with a ball of yarn can be priceless. If you are handy with a camera and are a pet lover yourself this could be your pet business calling.

Pooper Scooper Service

This job may not be the favorite out of the bunch, but it is a definite moneymaker. People do not enjoy picking up their dogs excrement out of their yard. Most will gladly pay to have this service provided for them. This is a job that takes only minutes to do and after the job is done you walk away with money in hand. You need only a few supplies such as rubber gloves and boots. You will also need trash bags or buckets and a scooper or shovel. The only other thing you may need is a strong stomach or weak sense of smell. Its a simple but smelly job.

Pet Day Care

During the nine to five of a workday, pets are left home alone in pet crates or in a fenced in yard. Many pet owners feel deep guilt over this. After all pets are part of the family and owners do not like to think of their animals being lonely at home all day. This is why dog day cares are becoming more popular. Your job would be to walk and play with the dog or other pet. Provide affection and activities until the owner takes their pet home for the day. Its a great service for the pet and the owner, as well as an enjoyable job for you. Keep these pet oriented jobs in mind and you may be well on your way to running your very own pet business in two shakes of a dogs tail.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care and everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://pet-services.eoltt.com

Does Your Dog Chew Grass?

2008-03-24T18:54:00.000-07:00

My dog crops grass like a cow. He eats it with gusto whenever he encounters it to the extent that my friends have begun to refer to him, jokingly, as The Ruminant. This habit of his doesn’t bother me at all, since it seems to have no ill effects on him whatsoever, although when I’m standing outside in the cold waiting for him to relieve himself during one of his infrequent small hours toilet calls (normally his timing is much more considerate), it’s hard not to hop impatiently from foot to foot while he enthusiastically tears out the mandatory five to seven mouthfuls of grass, chews thoroughly, and swallows, instead of just getting on with the task at hand.

Unless your dog’s digestion is suffering unwanted upheavals from his grass-eating habit, it’s not really a problem. Dogs have been eating grass since the dawn of time (or at least, of the species) with few ill-effects, aside from the odd bout of vomiting - and really, this is one of those things that seems to bother owners a lot more than their dogs; most dogs, will simply re ingest the vomitus and go about their day unfazed.

Truthfully, nobody really knows why dogs eat grass. There are a variety of theories as to why animals that are widely regarded as carnivores would willingly consume moderate quantities of vegetation. One of said theories pertains to the fact that dogs are not, actually, carnivores. They’re omnivores, which literally means, eat anything.

This theory postulates that the modern day dog eats grass in a deliberate attempt to supplement his diet with nutrients that are missing from his daily meals. The main crux, thrust, and gist of this argument centers around the idea that dogs, as omnivorous animals, are eating too much meat and need to balance this out with some greenery on the side, much as you or I might crave a nice tart salad to go with our steak.

If you ask me, this is nonsense. First of all, most of us feed our dogs primarily on kibble, which contains the full spectrum of fully absorbable nutrients that dogs require (or at least, high quality kibble does, I can’t vouch for the quality of supermarket brand dog food). If you’re feeding your dog on meat alone, whether canned or fresh, there may be some substance to this theory, dogs need a wide range of vitamins and minerals for optimum health, most of which are not contained within fresh meat.

It’s true that canned meat has some added nutrients; the main problem with canned food is that it’s too soft and jelly like to maintain healthy teeth and bowels. Dogs fed primarily on canned food are far more prone to developing dental disease at a relatively early age (not to mention an increased incidence of constipation and flatulence, from the lack of fiber and roughage). As far as dog food goes, unless your dog’s on a specific, prescribed diet, kibble should constitute the main part of his diet, you can add a few spoonfuls of canned meat for variety and temptation, if you like.

Another popular theory is that dogs use grass as a sort of natural emetic: that, since a nauseous dog lacks the phalangeal structure necessary for the good old finger down the throat move, he’ll resort to nature’s bounty as an alternative. It’s true that grass does sometimes make dogs vomit those tickly stems can irritate the stomach lining, and there have been a few occasions when I’ve seen dogs vomit up a chunk of something that’s proved to be indigestible, and along with the offending article, there’s also been a clump of grass in the vomit too. Dog Training Online

However and I’m sorry to pour cold water over this one too. I have to say that this is pure conjecture, and somewhat nonsensical conjecture at that. Dogs are perfectly capable of vomiting all by themselves, without the assistance of grass. I’ve seen too many dogs enjoying a post-prandial mouthful of mixed lawn greens, without any regurgitational side effects, to lend the theory any credence. If you’re worried that eating grass is going to hurt your dog, you can lay that concern to rest right now.

The one possible downside is that he’ll irritate his throat or stomach lining, but this issue will only cause him strife for a second or two at most, he’ll either cough the problem away, or will toss his cookies without further ado (which rarely bothers most dogs). Really, grass eating is nothing to worry about it’s a life-long habit with many dogs, and if yours does decide that it’s no longer in his best interests, he’ll simply stop eating it all by himself.

You may need to keep an eye on him around recently treated lawns, or anywhere where nasties like pesticides, snail bait, and rat poison could be around, since most garden chemicals are highly toxic to dogs. Ideally, you’d be keeping an eye on him anyway if he’s around those substances, but grass eaters are at higher risk than most since they’re more likely to ingest plant matter that herbicides and other toxic chemicals have been sprayed onto.

In addition to this, it’s also best if he’s kept away from those clumps of dried out grass that lie around on the lawn after it’s been freshly mowed. It shouldn’t be a problem if the grass is mowed by a push-mower; but if it’s been through a gas operated machine, the grass will be tainted with petrol fumes and grease, which at best will taste horrible and at worst can make him pretty sick. (Fortunately for your peace of mind and your dog’s peace of digestive tract, all but the most food-obsessed dogs will usually spurn this smelly fare in favor of clean, fresh grass.)

If your dog’s grass eating is really bothering you, presumably this is out of concern for your lawn, rather than your dog, since there’s ample evidence that dogs suffer no adverse effects from frequent grassy snacks. There are a couple of things you can try doing to reduce his desire to supplement his diet with eatables from the backyard but, because this is one area of dogdom that nobody really knows that much about (scientists are frankly mystified by the appetite of the average dog for verdure), the success rate is more hit and miss than guaranteed.

Try varying his diet slightly. Unlike humans, dogs do not need a widely varied diet to keep them interested in food. They’re creatures of routine, and diet is no exception to this rule. However, since one of the theories that attempts to explain why dogs eat grass is centered around a lack of nutritional variety, you can try introducing various tasty vegetables into his food: most dogs enjoy tomatoes, carrots (either steamed or raw) and chopped apples. Be sure to stay well away from grapes, raisins, and onions, since these are toxic to dogs. See-- Dog Obedience Training Zone

Supervise him whenever he’s around grass. This may not be a particularly user friendly option, especially for off lead walks, you’ll have to keep a real eagle-eye on your canine walking buddy to make sure he’s not making a dash for the greenery. Realistically, there’s not really a lot you can do about your dog’s grass eating habit (aside from deny him access to grass utterly, which wouldn’t be fair to your dog and would make your daily dog walking expeditions more of an exercise in frustration than a relaxing stroll).

The general consensus from the experts seems to be that grass-eating, although somewhat of an enigmatic pastime to us humans, is just ‘one of those things’ as far as your dog is concerned. It won’t do him any harm, and you can be sure that if he’s eating it, he’s enjoying it, so there’s really not a lot to be said for depriving him of that simple pleasure.

Furthermore, and in addition to the logistics of permitting this penchant, I’ve got to say that watching your dog ripping up and chewing generous mouthfuls of turf with an expression of half lidded bliss on his face can provide you (and passersby) with some unexpected entertainment when the two of you are out and about together!

For more information on dog psychology and general canine behavioral traits, with a particular focus on problematic behaviors, you’ll probably want to take a look at SitStayFetch. It’s a complete, detailed manual for the intelligent and responsible owner, and covers everything from obedience training through to preventing and handling a huge variety of common problem behaviors. Well worth checking out.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care and everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Dealing With An Aggressive Dog

2008-03-17T19:21:00.000-07:00

Dogs are not naturally aggressive, they are usually taught to be by the owners lack of education in training dogs, or their abuse. Aggression is shown in several ways:

Barking

Growling

Staring

Mounting

Biting, this is only in extreme ases There is always a cause for aggression, and hopefully a cure for it and it is positively preventable. A dogs instinctive desire to dominate is the main reason for a dogs aggression. They will always attempt to be the leader of the family, which to him is his pack. Aggression during training sessions must be dealt with immediately, he is challenging your authority to teach him, and if not corrected immediately, it will cause problems later.

If as a puppy, your dog growled and got what he wanted in that way, he was taught that aggression got him what he wanted, and next time the aggression will be worse. They need to be taught when very young that aggression is not acceptable. Dogs also need interaction with people and other dogs, if they are not provided with this, they will learn to lung at, growl and bark at them.

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If a dog is beaten or abused, he will learn to protect himself every time a hand is raised in his vicinity. Anything that is painful to a dog can teach him to be aggressive, and should never be used as a training tool. All aggressive dogs will show some signs of aggression, even though they may not show all of the signs of aggression, some of these signs are:

*Laid back ears, tail tucked between the legs.

*Crouching while trying to avoid eye contact.

*Standing stiff and erect, this is a dog who is dominantly aggressive or territorial.

*Direct aggressive stare, with ears and tail held straight up.

With a fearfully aggressive dog, initiate a course of gradual socialization and exposure to people and dogs. Gradual is the key word here, never try to push your dog into socialization. With a territorial or dominantly aggressive dog, obedience training will teach him that you are in charge, never loose your temper, an aggressive dog will take advantage of you at this point.

Most dogs will show aggression at some point, this must be dealt with properly, always correct aggression when it is shown, every time.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Crate Training Your Dog

2008-03-11T18:51:00.000-07:00

Crate training and kennel training mean the same thing; what you call it is your choice. A crate may look like a wire pen or a plastic travel case; this is up to you. Adopted dogs may have a more difficult time accepting this type of training, but it is seldom difficult to teach a puppy. There are several advantages to this that you may not be aware of:

When your dog is crate trained, it is easier for him to travel; they are much more comfortable and relaxed. It is an easy way to contain your dog until his regular training is complete. A dog who has been crate trained all their life, may find it to be a favorite place. I know that one of the biggest mistakes I have made in training my dog was to never crate train her. When we moved, she was required to be in a crate to fly and it was very stressful for both of us. I will never again own a dog that is not trained in this very important lesson.

Their crate should never be used as a form of discipline; it should always be a place where they are happy, content and safe. To start this training, put comfortable bedding a toy and a food treat in the crate, leave the door open in an area the puppy frequents. His curiosity will get him into the crate without you having to force him. While he plays in the crate close the door for a few minutes to get him accustomed to the door being closed.

When he has gotten used to going into the crate on his own, teach him using the verbal command go to bed or go to your crate he will eventually learn the command if you use it each time he heads for the crate. Never crate train the puppy for more than a couple of hours a day, and always exercise him before he goes in. Play with him and praise him when he is taken out of the crate and immediately take him outside to take care of his business.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://sitstayfetch.eoltt.com

Breaking My Dog Of Digging

2008-03-02T18:05:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of reasons why a dog will dig holes, it may be instinct, during the winter the wolf will eat all of the food that he kills, this is because he is unsure of the next time he will eat. During the summer, he will dig a hole and bury part of the kill and return later to finish it off, this is a lot like your dog burying a bone in the backyard. A dog that is outside in the summer may dig a hole to get out of the heat, in the winter he may dig a hole to get out of the cold.

They may also dig because they do not get enough exercise, it is a great way to relieve that extra energy. Have you ever watched how much energy a dog puts out when he digs a hole? This is usually because the owner doesnt realize how much energy a dog has, and doesnt give him the amount of exercise he needs. Yelling and screaming only reinforces the activity with negative attention, any attention is better than no attention, just ask your dog.

Boredom. Bored dogs need a job to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by. Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog. It gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise empty day. The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it is nearly impossible to confine them. For a four legged Houdini, it is not the digging in itself that is the reward, it is the glorious unknown that exists beyond the fenceline.

When you give negative support, you only make the problem worse, more holes are a real problem. If you are one of the lucky few and your dog digs in front of you, just telling him no, may solve the problem. However, most holes are not dug in our presence, especially if the dog digs from boredom, because when you are there, he isnt bored. One way of stopping this habit is to put a wooden stake in the center of the hole he has dug, tie him to the stake with his lease and leave him there for about 20 minutes.

Separation anxiety. To a dog that is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs but because it is so complex, we will not be dealing with it in details now. It will take a few more holes, but after you have several holes with stakes in the middle, he will relate the stake to the hole and being tied to the stake and the hole digging will stop.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Controlling Your Dogs Bark

2008-02-28T21:54:00.000-08:00

A barking dog is a superb protection and an outstanding burglar alarm, but you need the ability to control the barking. If you do not train your dog to bark only at the appropriate times (fire alarms, noise outside the window and when approached by strangers), your neighbors are likely to resent your best friend, and you because you fail to control your dog.

If you want your dog to be protection for you, teach him the guard command rather than speak, an intruder or someone who is threatening you will not know exactly how much your dog knows about guard and it is an excellent deterrent. This command does not mean that your dog will actually attack someone, but the barking can be a effective prevention for your safety both inside and outside your home.

To teach your dog to guard or speak, tie his lead to a fence or some other immovable item. Stand about 3 feet away and tease him with a toy or food, when he begins to bark, give the reward. Now put the food and toy away and change the treat to verbal praise when he begins to bark. The command guard or speak should be given as soon as the dog barks, the timing is essential here, watching his body language, you can tell when he is ready to bark.

Once he becomes aware of the guard command, give the quiet command when he is barking; give the reward as soon as he is stops barking. If the barking continues, give the “no” command. When he has successfully learned the command, move further away and continue the training, he needs to know and respond to these commands from any distance. After this training is successful, untie him from the fence and continue to train him the commands
guard and quiet.

You and your neighbors will appreciate this training when they have a peaceful night, and they will learn that if he is barking, there is something wrong.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Can I Train A Neurotic Dog

2008-02-20T19:23:00.000-08:00

All dogs can be trained, the problem with trainingthem isnt the dog it is the master, if your dog is neurotic, and his main problem in life is likely to be you. Dogs neurosis may start when they are very young, first off he was taken from his family and given to a giant that he didnt know. Imagine living in a world where your best friend can pick you up by the neck and put you anywhere he wants you.

In your world, you cant always sleep on the bed, but are relegated to the floor, which everyone knows isnt as soft as the bed. You may even be asked to spend
hours, even days, out in the cold, rain and snow. Neurosis begins to develop, and as the master of a neurotic dog it is your responsibility to effectively teach him, best of luck.

First you must remember that if a dog is neurotic, it will be difficult to teach him that following your commands, will make his life any better. All he has to do is look around him to realize that he is the only one that is required to learn anything. He has never seen a cat being trained to sit, lie down or stay, but the cat still gets fed on a regular basis, as a matter of fact, his master seems to prefer the cat, this only increases his neurosis.

It is however possible to train a neurotic dog, here is one example of this success. Monty, a 6 month old Labrador is taken home to live with his new family, he loves to chew on books. Rather than punish Monty, his master comes to the conclusion that psychology would work better. He removes the books by putting them on a higher shelf,
as Monty grows, the books get put higher and higher.

Finally, the owner moves his last few books to the top shelf of the closet. At last, Monty stops chewing on books, the training has been successful, however his master has also stopped reading.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://dog-obedience-training-zone.eoltt.com

Chloes Basics Of Education Sit, Stay and Lay Down

2008-02-17T16:47:00.000-08:00

Chloe is a 2 year old chocolate lab, much loved by her family, and very easy to train, this is because of the amount of love she is given by her family. You see, Chloe, like any other dog, will do anything to please the people she loves. The first lesson Chloe was given was her housebreaking, she was kept outside the first time she came home until she went to the bathroom. http://dog-obedience-training-zone.eoltt.com

This took the efforts of several family members but it showed her where she was allowed to go. When she was finally taken into the house, she was watched closely and whenever she started sniffing around she was taken back outside again. At night she was put in a box next to her owners bed, where she was kept when there was no one available to watch her. She was taken outside just before they went to bed and as soon as they got up in the morning.

When they left home, if they couldnt take her with them, she was again taken outside to go to the bathroom and put in the box, as soon as they returned she was again taken outside.
This took a few days, and there were accidents, but she soon learned that if she went to the door, she could go outside and take care of her business.

Teaching her to sit was her second lesson, her owner would sit on the floor and play with her, teaching her to sit was a combination of holding her toy up above her head, at this point she would sit down to keep the toy in her site. She would also tell her to sit
while gently pushing on her hind quarters, when she was successful, she was praised and loved on, she learned this one very quickly too. http://sitstayfetch.eoltt.com

Her third lesson was to lie down, again on the floor with Chloe, her owner would tell her to sit, when she was in the sitting position, she would then tell her to lie down and gently pull her front legs out and push her front end down. What this family now has is a very well trained dog, which everyone enjoys having around.

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://squidoo.com/dog-behavior-training-1

Kidney Failure In Dogs

2008-02-08T18:45:00.000-08:00

Kidney failure (also known as chronic renal failure) is often a disease of the older dog or cat. The disease can be a symptom of aging or can be caused by a defect in the kidneys that caused the animal to have failure at a younger age. Chronic nephritis, a long-standing infection of the kidney, can cause damage over the course of time to result in kidney failure. Infections, like urinary tract infections, or fungal infections can also cause kidney failure as can trauma to the kidney area (from being hit by a car) or cancer, among other illnesses. Toxins and poisons, like anti-freeze, can also cause kidney failure. Even some medications meant to help a pets health might cause kidney failure.

Signs of Kidney Failure

One of the clearest, most obvious signs of kidney failure is increased thirst. This sign is followed by the next most obvious sign of kidney failure—increased urination. The kidneys are unable to retain the right amount of water, so the dog keeps urinating his fluid out, but is thirstier because his body is losing the water he needs. Other signs may include vomiting, fever, and loss of appetite, among others.

Treatment for Kidney Failure

The veterinarian will diagnose your dog or cat with kidney failure following urinalysis and blood tests. From those tests, he or she can determine how well the kidneys are functioning. Depending on the cause, the pet may require medication. Because of the nature of kidney failure, the kidneys will not get better.

The goal of treatment is to keep the pet comfortable and help his body cope with the reduced kidney capacity as long as possible. Treatment may include diet changes to help reduce the load on the kidneys. Specialty diet formulas are made specifically for pets with kidney failure, and those diets may have reduced protein. Canned food is often recommended over dry food to increase more fluid intake.

Because some pets lose their appetite with kidney failure, making the food more appetizing might be encouraged, such as warming the food. Other treatment may include fluid therapy where the animal is hydrated by injecting fluid under the skin. Vitamins, electrolytes, minerals or fatty acid supplements may be recommended to make up for all those necessary nutrients that are being lost.

Other, more aggressive treatments are available to pet owners including kidney transplant or dialysis. However, such treatments are often unaffordable for most pet owners. Depending on the cause and treatment, some pets can live for months, even years, with kidney failure.
Access to the most comprehensive line of pet insurance product available.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://www.squidoo.com/dog-behavior-training-1

Urinary Incontinence: Natural Treatment Options for Dogs and Cats

2008-02-05T18:53:00.000-08:00

When a companion begins to drip or leak urine, it can cause great concern for the animal’s guardian. Incontinence causes the animal great distress as well. They do not wish to urinate in the house or on their bed, yet cannot control their own bodily functions properly. Urinary incontinence is the involuntary passing or leakage of urine and occurs in 20% of dogs at some point in their lifetime. Cats are less often affected. Treatment for incontinence is typically fairly simple and effective, so don’t panic if your companion begins to drip. (Marking & spraying, frequent urination, and submissive urination are not considered urinary incontinence and are not encompassed in this article).

Most cases of incontinence are due to:

Weak bladder sphincter
Infection in the urinary tract (usually bladder infection)
Bladder stones
Excessive consumption of water
Congenital structural defect
Spinal cord damage or disease

A weak bladder sphincter is the most common cause of incontinence. Spayed females are most susceptible to a weakened bladder sphincter due to low estrogen levels along with other factors and can be affected at any age after spaying. Male dogs can develop weakened sphincters as well, typically older male dogs. Obesity can contribute to a weak bladder sphincter and this should why you have to keep your companion fit. Female dogs with this type of incontinence will commonly respond to hormone treatment.

Natural supplements that include soy isoflavones or other herbs which provide phytoestrogens such as
Only Natural Pet Bladder Control or in combination with glandular extracts such as Genesis Resources Canine Incontinence Formula may be useful in treating this type of incontinence. HomeoPet Leaks No More is a combination homeopathic remedy that has shown good success in treating incontinence due to a weak bladder sphincter. In some cases a change to a raw or grain-free diet has been shown to cure this type of incontinence. A combination of diet and supplements can often solve the issue quickly.

A urinary tract infection (UTI) or bladder stones should be suspected when additional symptoms are present such as frequent urination, painful urination, straining to urinate or blood in the urine. If any of these symptoms are present then a urinalysis and urine culture needs to be performed for proper diagnosis. Urinary tract infections are a common cause of incontinence in young adult female dogs and geriatric cats. Clearing the infection is the first order of treatment.

A mild infection may respond to anti-microbial herbs. Natures Herbs for Pets Urinary Relief formula contains Chinese herbs that may be helpful. Animals Apawthecary Tinkle Tonic is also useful in helping to heal an irritated bladder and urinary tract. A more severe infection should be treated with antibiotics, along with probiotics to help restore the healthy bacteria needed in the digestive tract. Give the probiotics 2 hours apart from the antibiotics for best results.

The cause of the UTI should be questioned and addressed as well. Diet is the first place to look and is easily addressed. Many animals with incontinence issues from a variety of causes improve greatly or are cured through changing to a raw, grain free diet. At the very least a grain-free and/or hypoallergenic diet is worth trying for several weeks to see how the animal responds.

Blockage of the urethra from a stone (or tumor) can cause incontinence when the animal cannot empty their bladder completely. The bladder may get so full that the pressure of urine in the bladder actually forces some urine to leak around the blockage. Blood may be seen in the urine that does pass and the enlarged bladder can be felt on examination. Total blockage of urine flow is a veterinary emergency and pets should be taken in as soon as possible.

For smaller stones, a diet change may be all that is needed, raw and grain free is best. Additional vitamin C can also be helpful. Larger stones may require surgery. There are Chinese herbal formulas that can be effective in dissolving urinary crystals and stones, but these are best prescribed by a holistic veterinarian. Please see the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association’s Referral Directory for a list of practitioners.

For treatment of chronic urinary tract infections, stones or other chronic urinary issues, please see the article Treating Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease – which is written with cats in mind but also applies to dogs. Older pets can also develop senility and simply be unaware that they are dribbling urine. Health Concerns Astra Essence is an excellent tonic for geriatric animals needing a boost in cognitive and immune health. Rejuvination Tonic by Natures Herbs for Pets is another Chinese herbal combination for older companions. And, once again, a diet change can be very helpful for these animals.

Older animals are also more prone to some of the health problems that can lead to urinary incontinence as a secondary issue due to excessive water intake. These include diabetes, Cushing’s disease, hyperthyroidism (in cats), and kidney disease. These and other related problems can usually be ruled out by a blood panel and urine culture.

Ectopic ureter(s) are a fairly uncommon physical abnormality that puppies may be born with. The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder. Ectopic ureters by-pass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location such as the urethra or vagina causing the puppy to drip urine. Another less common cause of incontinence in female dogs is called vulvovaginal stenosis. It is a condition in which the vagina at the level where the urethra ends is narrowed. Occasionally when the pet urinates, some urine will get trapped in the vagina in front of this narrowed area. Then when they rise after lying down the urine pours out.

Dogs with spinal cord disease or damage are also susceptible to urinary incontinence. Chiropractic care and/or acupuncture may be very helpful in these cases. Both chiropractic care and acupuncture can contribute to the resolution of other causes of incontinence as well. It is quite useful to try a variety of treatments or combination of treatments when dealing with urinary incontinence. Even if conventional pharmaceutical treatment becomes necessary, drug dosages may be reduced by combining conventional treatment with natural or alternative treatments. Once you have ruled out physical issues and have an idea of what may be contributing to your companion’s incontinence, natural treatments can help solve the problem.

A grain-free diet is a good place to begin. Raw would be ideal, dehydrated or freeze dried is second choice, and a combination of grain-free kibble and canned would be third choice for dogs, canned only for cats. Add appropriate supplement(s). Homeopathic remedies can be combined with herbal and nutraceutical supplements if need be. Consult a holistic veterinarian regarding chiropractic care or acupuncture to determine if these treatments can help your companions.

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://squidoo.com/dog-behavior-training-1

Thyroid Disorders In Cats And Dogs

2008-01-29T21:32:00.000-08:00

The thyroid gland produces hormones that affect the body’s metabolism, growth and development. The two most important hormones are tetraiodothyronine (thyroxine or T4) and triodothyronine (T3). There are two conditions caused by a dysfunctional thyroid gland – hyperthyroidism and hypothyroidism. Hyperthyroidism is more common in cats and is caused by an overactive thyroid gland with the resulting overproduction of hormones. Hypothyroidism, which is more common in dogs, is caused by an under active thyroid gland that is not producing enough hormones resulting in decreased metabolism.

Hyperthyroidism

Hyperthyroidism is diagnosed so often in cats that it has practically become an epidemic. It is rarely seen in dogs. It is more common in older cats, but may be seen in younger cats as well. Hyperthyroidism is generally a result of benign (non-cancerous) changes or enlargement of the thyroid gland. It seems to be more common among cats that have been fed sub-standard nutrition and food containing artificial preservatives. Some holistic veterinarians feel they have seen an increase in hyperthyroidism that corresponds to the increased vaccination rate for feline leukemia. Viral and bacterial infections can also play a role, as well as environmental toxins.

Prevention of hypothyroidism is the best approach through proper diet and daily supplements, avoiding unnecessary vaccines, and minimizing exposure to chemical or environmental hazards including cleaning products, X rays, antibiotics and food preservatives.

Symptoms of hyperthyroidism include:

• Excessive thirst (in 10% of hyperthyroid cats)
• Excessive urination
• Increased appetite
• Weight loss (despite increased appetite)
• Hyperactivity
• Irritability or Aggression
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Voluminous fatty feces
• Panting, Heat intolerance
• Skin lesions, dry, greasy, matted coat

Secondary problems include high blood pressure and heart disease. The increased metabolic activity stimulated by the excess thyroid hormones cause an increased heart rate which leads to an enlargement of the heart and thickening of the heart walls. The increased pumping pressure of the heart leads to high blood pressure.

Hyperthyroidism is best addressed with a team approach that includes you, your veterinarian and a holistic veterinarian – either in your area or via phone consultation. Some cats are excellent candidates for allopathic treatments; some cats need a strictly holistic approach; many will do best with a combination of both approaches. The holistic methods of treating hyperthyroidism include improving the overall health of the animal through improving diet and providing proper supplements, as well as more targeted treatments such as constitutional homeopathy or Chinese herbal remedies.

Diet

Feeding the best diet possible is the place to start. Feed the freshest food you can – raw is best, freeze dried and dehydrated follow that, then canned, and lastly dry food. Dry kibble should be a minimal part of the diet for cats. Cats do not produce as much of the enzyme amylase, that digests carbohydrates, as people and dogs do, so grains and other carbohydrates are more difficult for cats to break down and digest properly. Cats need meat as the main portion of their diet.

Hypothyroidism commonly occurs in cats that have some form of Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). Chronic vomiting and other symptoms of gastro-intestinal disorders are often resolved through diet changes as outlined above. In addition to feeding the freshest food possible, the diet should be free of common allergens such as wheat, corn, soy and dairy. See Inflammatory Bowel Disease & Other Gastrointestinal Issues for more information about treating IBD.

Supplements

Carnitine is an amino acid that has been shown to prevent or reverse hyperthyroid symptoms in humans, and is often recommended for cats as well. Since hyperthyroidism tends to deplete the body of carnitine, supplementation is recommended anyway. Cats can be given 125 to 250 mg 2 times per day.

Chinese herbal formulas are frequently a part of a comprehensive approach to hyperthyroidism. Thyroid Calming by Nature’s Herbs for Pets is designed to aid in balancing thyroid function. More advanced Chinese herbal remedies may be prescribed by your holistic veterinarian. The herbs Bugleweed and Melissa (lemon balm) are western herbs used traditionally in the treatment of hyperthyroidism in cats. These should be used under the supervision of a holistically trained veterinarian.

Constitutional Homeopathy has also been successful in reversing hypothyroidism, particularly in the early stages. Constitutional homeopathy takes into consideration the whole patient, the totality of all symptoms including physical, mental and emotional states. A classically trained homeopath will ask many detailed questions in order to obtain a complete picture of the individual and match this to the most appropriate remedy. To find a holistic veterinarian that practices homeopathy near you, check the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association or Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy referral directories.

Flower essences can support your pet’s emotional well-being during his treatment. Thyroid Balance Flower Essence by Pet Essences may help calm the irritability or ease depression that often occurs with hyperthyroidism. Hyperthyroidism often masks underlying kidney disease in older cats. It is not uncommon to bring the thyroid under control only to find that the patient needs treatment for kidney disease within months. For this reason it is even more important to improve the diet as much as possible and provide daily supplements for optimal overall health including a good daily multivitamin, digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids, and vitamin C.

Hypothyroidism

Hypothyroidism is more commonly seen in dogs than cats. It is typically a result of physical degeneration of the thyroid gland – either from an autoimmune response or atrophy of the thyroid gland. Some holistic veterinarians believe this degeneration may be related to environmental toxin exposure, poor diet and nutrition, over-vaccination, or a combination of these factors. Some dogs have a genetic pre-disposition to the disease. Breeds that are more commonly affected include Golden Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers, Greyhounds, Irish setters, Dachshunds, and Cocker Spaniels. Hypothyroidism is rare in toy and miniature breeds of dogs.

Over 80% of hypothyroid dogs show some kind of skin abnormality such as thickening in some areas, darkening pigmentation, dry skin, or infections. Other symptoms of Hypothyroidism may include the following:

• Lethargic behavior (lack of interest in play, frequent napping, tiring out easily)
• Weight gain, sometimes without an apparent gain in appetite
• Hair loss, especially on the trunk or tail (without associated itching)
• Cold intolerance/seeking out warm places to lie down
• Slow heart rate
• Chronic ear infections
• Behavioral changes such as aggression, anxiety and/or compulsivity
• Depression

These symptoms will appear gradually, so it is not uncommon for guardians to miss the initial stage of the disorder. It is generally seen in middle-aged or older dogs.

Hypothyroidism is difficult to diagnose despite its seeming simplicity. It is not so straight forward as testing for low thyroid hormone levels and prescribing synthetic hormone replacement. There are a variety of tests available to determine the level of thyroid function and hormones available in the system. Endocrinologists may use multiple tests to make a proper diagnosis. Some veterinarians will prescribe a trial period of synthetic thyroid hormone and, if the response is positive, use this as the means of diagnosis.

The problem with this method is that synthetic thyroid hormone acts as a stimulant, so most dogs will respond with increased activity and interest in life. If a dog that is not truly hypothyroid is kept on synthetic thyroid hormones for an extended period, the increased metabolic rate can tax the dog’s system - hastening the aging process and leading to other degenerative conditions. In addition, the use of synthetic thyroid hormone can hasten the degeneration of the thyroid gland. As you can see, proper diagnosis is rather important.

Since most hypothyroid dogs will retain at least some function of the thyroid gland, it may be very useful to support the function of the thyroid gland through the use of supplements, herbs and glandulars possibly in combination with synthetic thyroid hormone depending on the stage and severity of the issue. Again, diet is the place to begin (see above under hyperthyroid treatment). A high quality diet supports the body in managing its own endocrine system. As with treating any health issue, provide daily supplements for support of overall health including a good daily multivitamin, digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids. Essential fatty acids can be helpful in treating some of the skin abnormalities resulting from hypothyroidism.

Chinese herbal formulas are can be particularly helpful in treating hypothyroidism. Thyroid Boost by Nature’s Herbs for Pets is designed to aid in balancing thyroid function. Again, more advanced Chinese herbal remedies can be prescribed by a holistic veterinarian.

Thyroid Balance Flower Essence by Pet Essences may help address any emotional and behavioral issues resulting from the thyroid imbalance. Glandular supplements can be prescribed by a holistic veterinarian and are often helpful in supporting thyroid function.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://squidoo.com/dog-behavior-training-1

Weight Management for Dogs and Cats

2008-01-17T18:44:00.000-08:00

Obesity in dogs and cats is one of the most common problems seen by veterinarians today. Overweight companion animals are at a higher risk for a number of health problems including diabetes, joint stiffness and arthritis, non-allergenic skin disorders, lower urinary tract issues, fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis) and shortened life span. In other words; you may be killing your companion with "kindness."

How to tell if your dog or cat is overweight:

Feel their ribs. You should be able to feel each individual rib with a slight layer of fat over them. If you have to work at feeling those ribs or can’t feel them at all, it’s time for a weight-loss plan. If you can see the ribs, your companion may too thin.
Feel the area over the base of your dog or cat’s tail. A slight layer of fat over the bones is good. If the bones are prominent, the animal is too thin. If the bones are hard to find, the animal is overweight.

Feel other bony areas such as the spine, shoulders and hips. Again, a slight layer of fat is what we are looking for. If they are visible, the animal may be too thin. If there is extra padding, then your companion is overweight. Look at your companion from above. You should see a waist behind the rib cage of a cat or dog in appropriate condition. In the photo below our friends Honda and Jack have modeled this view. Jack, on the left, is in ideal condition and shows a nice waist. Honda, his buddy on the right, is overweight - his waist is missing.

Finally, look at your companion from the side. The waist should again be visible – a "tuck" behind the rib cage area. If the animal’s waist is the same as his chest, he is definitely overweight. This side view will vary from breed to breed with greyhounds and similarly built dogs looking thin compared to others as they have rather deep chests and smaller waists.

If your veterinarian has ruled out any health conditions that are causing your friend’s extra weight gain, then a weight management program is in order. Crash diets are not healthy, however. Aim for a gradual weight loss of .5 - 2% of body weight per week. If you can, weigh your pet weekly.

Weight loss and control consist of:

Proper diet (lower carbohydrates)
Proper portions
Meals rather than "free choice"
Quantity and quality of treats

What to Feed

Weight loss programs for animals are the same as those for people, eat less and exercise more. Specially formulated weight loss diets are not generally necessary. High quality nutrition is the best way to help your friend lose her extra pounds. Most kibbles are high in carbohydrates, which can contribute to weight gain, especially in cats. Cats do not produce as much of the enzyme, amylase, that digests carbohydrates as people and dogs do, so grains and other carbohydrates are more difficult for cats to break down and digest properly. Cats need meat as the main portion of their diet.

Many overweight animals slim down nicely when transitioned to a raw food diet, but even a high quality kibble is fine as long as you feed the appropriate quantity. The newer grain free diets may be appropriate, but keep in mind that you will need to feed less of this type of food. If you know you will not be able to reduce the amount of food you are giving your companion without feeling overwhelming guilt, then try a food formulated for weight control. Adding digestive enzymes to each meal can help break down the food and make the nutrients more available for absorption.

How Much to Feed

Pet food labels are not the best way to determine the proper amount to feed your companion. The recommended portions on pet food labels are a very rough guideline and are based on the manufacturer’s estimate of what an "average" cat or dog may be. Each animal is an individual and will have different activity levels and metabolism than others even in the same household. In our house we have a 75 pound lab mix and a 56 pound border collie mix with a 20 pound difference in size they still eat exactly the same portion at every meal. The border collie mix is much more active and spends most of the day outside whereas the lab mix likes the sofa. They also need less food in the winter than in the summer when they are more active.

Cats and small dogs need very small portions, sometimes less than an ounce per meal. It may look like hardly any food to you, but it will be plenty to meet your companion’s needs. If you are monitoring his weight regularly you will notice if he is losing too much too fast and can adjust the amount you feed slightly.

Meal Schedule

Leaving food available "free choice" contributes to obesity and also a number of other health problems. It is a myth that dogs and cats will regulate their own weight if food is left out. Some may, others will not, but they will all suffer from an over-stimulated digestive system and stressed immune system over time. Cats and dogs are hunters – they eat and then rest. They do not snack. If your companion is used to eating at will, cut back to 3 or 4 small meals a day, and then down to 2. Two meals a day is fine for adult animals. Puppies and kittens should be fed at least 3 times a day during their greatest growth period in the first 4 to 6 months.

Exercise

Exercise provides much more than just an increase in calorie usage. It contributes to the quality of your relationship with your companion as well as improving his mental health, cardiovascular health and increasing his longevity. For dogs this can be as simple as a 15 or 20 minute walk twice a day. A trip to the local off leash dog park can provide even more fun and exercise. Cats are a bit trickier to exercise, especially overweight cats as they tend to feel less energetic and playful. Try a wide variety of toys both interactive toys that you can use to stimulate your cat, and some toys that might encourage her to play when you are away. Catnip can help stimulate your kitty to play a bit.

If she tires or gets bored easily, then start with shorter play sessions in the beginning and try to gradually increase the play periods. An outdoor space for your cat can contribute to both their physical activity and mental health. Provide climbing branches or structures for strength building if possible. If you live in an apartment – get the biggest cat tree you can fit in the space available.

Treats

It is difficult for most guardians to eliminate treats especially those guardians who are well trained or rather who have trained their animals well. You may have thought it was cute the first time Fido ran to the treat cupboard and looked at you with hopeful eyes, but now it is a very hard habit to break. The same goes for your feline friend when she meows relentlessly until you give her a tidbit. If you have rewarded your friend for begging, he will continue to beg and learn to beg harder.

Since treats provide enjoyment for both of you, just change the quantity and quality to meet the weight loss program. Break the treats into smaller pieces no larger than the size of a pea. A taste is all that is needed to give your friend a reward or special treat. And use high-quality all or mostly meat treats such as the freeze-dried or dehydrated meat treats. Reduce the amount you feed at each meal by the amount of treats you have fed that day.

The Reward – Happier, Healthier Companions

Once you have helped your companion reach a healthier weight, you can slightly increase the food portion to maintain that weight. Continue to watch her closely, feeling for ribs and looking for a waist, and weighing her if possible on a regular basis. Remember to adjust the amount you feed to his activity level, don’t keep feeding a cup per meal in the winter if he is inside and less active.

In the long run your pet will be happier and more active when kept at an appropriate weight. She will be healthier and will likely live longer as well. Weight control is well worth the time and effort for the long-term health of your companion.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Intestinal Worms & Heartworm

2008-01-13T16:33:00.000-08:00

The most common internal parasite problems in companion animals are intestinal worms like roundworm, tapeworm, hookworm and whipworm and heartworm. Many dogs and cats can have a mild parasite infestation and show no symptoms. A healthy animal may fight off an infestation without their guardian ever knowing of it. Dogs and cats with stressed or weakened immune systems, however, will succumb to a more severe infestation if left unchecked.

Intestinal Worms

It seems that new pets often arrive with worms. Most puppies and kittens will have intestinal worms from birth. The worms are passed on from the mother, and the undeveloped immune systems and gastrointestinal systems of very young animals cannot keep the parasite population in check. Rescued animals should also be checked for parasite infestations as stress and crowded conditions contribute to the animal’s vulnerability to parasites.

Animals can become infested by eating feces, ingesting fleas, hunting rodents, coming into contact with dead animals or eating contaminated food. Common symptoms can include:

Diarrhea
Weight loss
Gastrointestinal disturbances
Anemia
Scratching, particularly around the base of the tail
Vomiting
Mild to severe coughing
Eating a great deal without putting on weight
Bad breath
Puppies and kittens with roundworms may appear to have a pot belly and exhibit slow growth. They can be born with a roundworm infection or become infected from the mother’s milk. The mother does not have to have an active worm infestation to pass worms to her puppies or kittens–the roundworm larvae may encyst in her system for years until the hormones of pregnancy signal the larvae to migrate and develop.

Rodents are also common carriers, so if you have a hunter in the household, it is wise to regularly check for roundworm. If the roundworm infestation is severe, long, whitish worms may be seen in the stools, but they are more commonly detected through a fecal examination by a veterinarian that reveals the presence of eggs. The life cycle of these worms includes a trip through the respiratory system (as microscopic larvae), they are then swallowed and complete their development in the intestinal tract.

Hookworms are more common in dogs than cats. As with roundworms, puppies and kittens can be infested in-utero or from the mother’s milk. Hookworms attach to the wall of the intestine and suck blood. It the infestation is severe the animal will develop anemia. Older dogs with a weakened immune system are also susceptible and may show signs such as poor weight maintenance, poor stamina, progressive weakness, and possibly bloody diarrhea. It is important that older animals visit their veterinarian for regular checkups as not all decline in activity can be written off to “old age.”

Whipworms are also more common in dogs than cats. They are difficult to detect as they are seldom seen in the stool and they produce relatively few eggs, so a single fecal exam may not reveal the problem. The most common signs of whipworm are chronic weight loss and stools that seem to have a mucous covering–particularly on the last bit of stool passed. Whipworm infestation has also been known to manifest the same symptoms as Addison’s Disease. If a dog shows the signs and symptoms of Addison’s Disease such as a waxing and waning weakness with inability to conserve salt - ultimately resulting in dehydration, and the tests for Addison’s come up negative, then de-worming for whipworm may be in order.

If you are seeing small worms in your dog or cats’ stools, fur or bedding, then you are likely seeing tapeworms. Tapeworms look like flattened grains of rice - usually found on your companion’s bedding and/or the fur around his anus, or sometimes in the stools. They often do not show up during a fecal exam by a veterinarian, so watching your pet’s bedding and fur are the best ways to detect them.

Tapeworms come with flea infestations as they are carried by fleas. Before treating for tapeworm, you must first eradicate any fleas in the environment (home/yard) or they will become re-infested. (see "The Natural Approach to Flea Control"). Consuming rodents with tapeworm or fleas may also cause infestation, so again if your companion likes to hunt–regularly check for tapeworm.

If you suspect your companion may have worms, it is very important to have a stool analysis performed by a veterinarian to determine the type of worm for which treatment is needed.

Prevention and Treatment

A healthy animal with a strong immune system eating a high-quality, raw food diet is not only less susceptible to worms and parasites of all kinds, she also will be more able to eliminate any infestation that does occur without intervention. Cleaning litter boxes regularly or “scooping” the yard on a regular basis is also important.

In treating puppies and kittens I generally recommend using prescription de-wormers. The newer prescription worm medications available to veterinarians are very effective and relatively safe and gentle. I do not recommend over-the-counter worm medications – many are harder on the animal’s system and less effective. As worm medications only kill the worms in the animal’s intestines, a fecal analysis should be done approximately 3 weeks after the initial de-worming to ensure that no migrating worms were able to re-infest the animal’s intestines.

Herbal worm remedies have been used successfully for many years. They are particularly effective for less severe infestations and are safer and gentler than over-the-counter medications. There are no rigorous tests of the natural de-worming remedies available since there is no money to be made there, but these remedies have been used for many years for humans and animals.

Only Natural Pet Para-Gone is an herbal complex with herbs that both help expel worms and strengthen and heal the digestive tract. Consistent dosing 3 times per day for 10 days is required for greatest effectiveness.

HomeoPet Wrm Clear is a homeopathic combination remedy. Again, this requires consistent dosing 3 times per day for 14 days. Wrm Clear can be given to puppies and kittens as young as 6 weeks old. A course of Wrm Clear can be given following a course of Only Natural Pet Para-Gone or can be given along with conventional medication to aid recovery of the digestive tract and help prevent re-infestation.

When using either of these remedies, it can take 3 days or more for the worms to begin to be eliminated, depending on the overall health of the animal and whether or not the animal is constipated. The worms will pass out of the animal’s system in their stools. If the animal is constipated, a laxative herb such as Only Natural Pet Laxa-Herb is recommended to aid digestion and elimination since constipation will hinder the worming process. Digestive Enzymes (For Dogs, For Cats) and Probiotics (For Dogs, For Cats) are also good companions to any de-worming program, conventional or herbal, to help aid the digestive tract.

Following the de-worming process with a course of Only Natural Pet GI Health Herbal Formula can aid in healing the intestinal tract and make the animal less susceptible to further infestation.

The effectiveness of Para Gone and Wrm Clear, as with ANY herbal or natural remedy, varies with the health of the animal. A healthier animal being fed a high-quality diet will respond better than an ailing animal on a poor quality diet. Para Gone and Wrm Clear will only eliminate the worms currently in the animal’s intestinal tract, just like conventional medications. The SOURCE of the worms must be eliminated also – i.e. fleas, eating feces, etc. or the animal will be continually re-infested. Also, as with conventional medications, larvae that are migrating within the animal’s body can re-infest the intestines within several weeks, so a repeat fecal analysis is highly recommended.

Heartworm

Depending on where you live, choosing a method of heartworm control may be a difficult decision. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we are fortunate and do not have a heartworm problem. Those living in the Southeastern states, however, must deal with the issue year-round. If you live in an area where the risk of heartworm infestation is high, the decision of whether or not to use conventional heartworm medications to prevent heartworm infestation is one that should be guided by careful research and consultation with a holistic veterinarian.

Animals contract heartworm when they are bitten by a mosquito that has already bitten another animal that was infected. The immature heartworm larvae (microfilariae) must go through a period of development within the mosquito. The process of change in the mosquito takes about 10 days in warm climates, but can take six weeks in colder temperatures – although the average mosquito only lives 30 days. Development of the larvae in the mosquito requires a temperature at or above 80 degrees Fahrenheit for about two weeks. No larval development takes place in the mosquito below 57 degrees F.

The larvae are passed from the mosquito onto (not into) the dog, or less commonly – the cat. The larva is deposited in a tiny drop of mosquito "spit" adjacent to the mosquito bite. For transmission to occur, there must be adequate humidity to prevent evaporation of this fluid droplet before the larvae can swim through the mosquito bite and into the new host. They live near the skin for a time, then migrate to the heart and are mature in about 5-7 months after entering the dog’s system.

In light of this complicated life cycle in need of optimal conditions, some areas of the country just do not see heartworm problems occur. Many veterinarians recommend year-round treatment even though conditions are only conducive for heartworm during the summer months in some areas. Again, become an informed guardian and do what you feel is best for your companion. If it snows where you live, then year-round heartworm protection is over-kill.

Overuse of insecticides for flea and heartworm control are believed, by most holistic veterinarians, to contribute to the increasing prevalence of cancer and chronic disease in our companion animals. The long-term health of the animal needs to be weighed against the risks of chemical prevention. A recent article in the Whole Dog Journal discussed the benefits of using a more prudent dosing protocol with conventional heartworm preventatives. This can be a viable option for those in high-risk areas.

Herbal preventatives are available such as Only Natural Pet HW Protect. Chemical heartworm preventatives work by continual administration of a low dose of insecticide to kill any developing microfilariae in the animal’s bloodstream. Herbal preventatives work in a similar fashion, only using herbs instead of pesticides, and they also make the animal less appealing to mosquitoes in the first place. Neither method kills adult heartworms – which is why regular testing for heartworm is absolutely necessary regardless of what method you choose for prevention.

As with all herbal remedies and treatments, the healthier the animal overall, the more effective the treatment will be. Provide your companion with the best diet along with proper supplements for optimal health, and this will go a long way to preventing disease and making them less appealing and susceptible to parasites.

Heartworm disease (adult heartworm infestation in the heart and lungs) is a very serious health concern and treatment for heartworm disease should ALWAYS be guided by a veterinarian. There are some holistic veterinarians treating heartworm without conventional insecticides, but this should never be attempted on your own. Click here for remedies and treatments for intestinal worms and heartworms!

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Puppy-Proofing Your Home

2008-01-09T21:34:00.000-08:00

Just like new mothers and fathers baby-proof their homes, you need to puppy-proof yours. Puppies have a lot of energy and like babies, they're too young to know what they should and shouldn't get into. You need to make your home as safe as possible for your new bundle of joy.

Collect all small and breakable objects, such as anything that can break or that's small enough to swallow, and put them into a room thats off limits to your puppy. Naturally, you'll keep the door to this room closed at all times.

Get down on your hands and knees and pretend you're a puppy. Sound ridiculous? Maybe, but it works. Seeing your home from a puppy's eyes level will help you spot anything dangerous. For instance, do your tablecloths have fringes that hang down? Do you have lots of electrical cords that your puppy could chew? And what about the garbage? Can your puppy get into it?

Make sure all toxins, such as bathroom and kitchen cleaners, are secured in a cabinet with a latch. Some common houseplants are poisonous. Your vet can give you a complete list. Consider moving your plants into the 'off-limits" room.

Unplug all small appliances when you're not using them. Inspect your home for any frayed electrical cords that can shock your puppy if he tries to play with them. Cords hanging from blinds can be deadly. Your puppy can hang himself if he gets tangled in one of these cords. Cut blind cords, wrap them tightly around a bracket, or tape them tightly to the top of your window.

Be certain all doors that lead to the outside shut tightly. Watch windows too. If your puppy is large, he may be able to crawl out of a low window. Once you've taken these steps to puppy-proof your home, you're ready to bring your puppy home.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Pet Natural Chews

2008-01-03T18:17:00.000-08:00

In addition to rawhide, other naturals are pig ears, chew hooves and bones. Following is some information to help you decide if these treats are right for your pet.

Pig ears are all natural pork, processed without preservatives, artificial coloring or flavoring. They're 100% digestible, and easier to digest than rawhide. They're also high in fat (which helps keep skin and coat healthy) and high in protein (essential for healthy muscle tone). Because they're high in calories, we recommend that you limit pig ears to no more than one per day for large dogs (over 70 pounds) and proportionately less for smaller dogs.

Chew hooves are one of the many usable by-products of meat processing. They are 100% protein, which makes them fully digestible. However, hooves have the potential to splinter, especially if your dog is an aggressive chewer, so you should only offer your dog chew hooves when you can be there to supervise.

Certain bones are good choices for dogs to chew as long as they are not too small or too brittle. Chicken bones, for example, are small and could splinter easily, getting caught in your dogs throat or digestive system. The best bones generally come from the femur (leg bone) of a large animal, such as a cow. They are very dense so they don't splinter, yet are a manageable size for a dog to handle. They even come smoked and basted, so your dog has a variety to choose from.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Questions About Dog Nutrition (3)

2007-12-28T19:14:00.000-08:00

Is there a correct amount of vitamins and minerals for my dog?

What happens if my dog gets too much vitamins or minerals? Both vitamin and minerals have certain levels that are required for optimal health and either too much, or too little, generally can lead to health problems. For some nutrients the range where optimal health can be maintained is quite wide and the safety factor is quite high. Examples include Vitamin E, manganese and the B-vitamins. In contrast other nutrients have a relatively narrow range and careful attention must be paid to these nutrient to ensure the pet gets enough for proper health, but not so much that signs of nutrient excess develop. Examples here include zinc, selenium and copper.

Is dry food better than canned food?

Dogs can thrive on any diet, dry, canned or semi-moist as long as it is complete and balanced. Dry diets are generally less expensive to feed than canned diets and in addition, the crunchy texture of dry diets will help keep your pets' teeth clean. However even pets fed dry diets still need periodic cleaning and can benefit from the many treats and toys, which help clean teeth.

My dog really likes canned foods.

Will he be harmed if I only feed him canned food?
Your dog will do fine on only canned food as long as it is complete and balanced. If you feed your dog only canned food you should probably make sure you buy extra rawhides or teeth cleaning chew toys as well as take your pet to get it's teeth brushed regularly.

My veterinarian recommended feeding my dog a premium food. Why is that food better?

Premium foods typically contain higher quality ingredients than standard foods. Because higher quality ingredients are used (more real meat) the foods are more nutrient-dense, which means they contain higher percentages of protein and fat so your pet eats less to obtain the same nutrition. In addition, premium foods tend to contain natural additives (natural preservatives like Vitamin E) and avoid the use of artificial colors and flavors. Many perceive premium foods to be healthier due to the use of natural additives. Premium foods also feature high quality carbohydrate sources like rice, one of the most digestible grains.

Due to the nutrient density and quality of ingredients, the average premium food is more digestible than the average standard food. This results in less backyard clean up for you. Since the ingredients are of higher quality, the cost of premium foods tends to be higher on a per pound basis. However the fact that they are of higher nutrient density and digestibility means the amount of food fed is less, so while overall feeding costs are higher it's not as much as you may think.

Some people leave food out all day long for their dog. Is that good? Won't your dog eat too much?

Dry pet food can be left out all day as long as your dog does not overeat and gain excessive weight. Even when given food all day, most dogs will generally only eat once or twice a day. However, if your pet gains too much weight, it's a good idea to feed your dog using discrete meals once or twice a day.

I am afraid to change my dog's food? Will he get sick?

Once your dog adjusts to a particular food, the dog's system, including the bacteria that live in the gastrointestinal, establish a careful balance. Because different foods contain different ingredients and nutrients, too quick a change can upset his system. For this reason a gradual change is recommended. Mix the old food with the new food as shown below and after ten days your pet will be eating his new diet. Don't be afraid to change ,simply do it slowly.

New Food Old Food
Days 1-3 25% 75%
Days 4-6 50% 50%
Days 7-9 75% 25%
Day 10 100%

My dog won't eat his food anymore? Why?

There are lots of reasons a dog might not eat his food and many dogs eat only sporadically, so your dog not eating for one day is usually not cause for concern. If your dog does not eat two days in a row it's generally a good idea to take him to your veterinarian and make sure he is okay. Dogs like consistency, so sometimes feeding him in a new place, at a different time or in a new bowl may cause him to not eat. Occasionally a food may not be stored properly or might be too old and the fats have started to go rancid, which can lead to feed refusal. Sometimes when the weather is too hot your dog might not want to eat. Lastly, think if your pet may have had too many treats or may have gotten into the pantry or garbage and so may already have eaten his daily meal.

Are there things I shouldn't feed my dog?

Yes. Leading the list is chocolate. Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine, which is toxic. Never feed chocolate or food containing it to your pet. Also, never feed an onion to your pet as large amounts can destroy your pets red blood cells causing anemia. While many people give their dogs raw meat, fish or poultry products these meats contain bacteria or possibly parasites, which are killed in the cooking process. For this reason raw meats are also not recommended. Softer bones such as those from pork or poultry should not be fed as they can splinter and puncture the intestines. Lastly, some people add fat to a dogs diet for a shiny coat. Sudden introduction of large amounts of fats can cause pancreatitis, so this should be avoided. One would be better off to switch to a high quality diet.

Is it okay to give my dog treats? He really likes them.

There are a large number of high quality treats available for your dog. The first thing to remember when using treats is the 10% rule. Never let treats comprise more than 10% of your dogs diet. Most commercial pet foods contain enough nutrients that feeding up to 10% treats won't upset an otherwise balanced diet. Second, just like changing diets too fast can upset a pet digestive system, so can a large amount of treats all at once. Lastly, remember that treats contain calories so make sure to cut back on your pet's regular food if you feed treats every day.

Are some treats better for dogs than others?

Generally speaking, treats can be divided into two categories, dry and semi-moist. Semi-moist treats contain 20-30% water, real meat or chicken and are highly palatable, making them valuable training treats. Dry treats and biscuits are usually not as palatable as semi-moist treats, but are less expensive and often can be used to help clean teeth.

How long will dog food keep? How can I tell if the food is still good?

Most pet food has a relatively long shelf life and most manufacturers are code dating their products in a manner that is consumer friendly. Usually this results in a statement on the package that says "Use before xxxx", where "xxxx" represents the last date the product should be used. As a rule of thumb, dry food is generally good up to one year from date of manufacture, while can foods are good for two years.

After that, certain components of the diet start to break down resulting in a product that smells bad, is unpalatable to your dog and which is not nutritious. While a can food is good for two years when unopened, once it's opened it should not be allowed to sit out for more than a couple hours because bacteria will quickly grow on moist pet food. Dry food can be left out all day as long as it stays dry and is protected from crawling insects.
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Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Licking: affectionate, disconcerting or just plain disgusting?

2007-12-21T19:37:00.000-08:00

For us humans, it can be a bit difficult to identify with the doggie habit of licking one another in greeting. We don’t do it, after all, and though our tongues come in handy for things like ice cream eating and sucking that last dollop of peanut butter off the knife, we certainly wouldn’t welcome a visitor into our home by giving them a long, lingering lick on the cheek unless you were brought up to embrace certain social mores currently unheard of in Western society.

Dogs use their tongues to explore the world. A dog’s tongue is as important and useful to him as our eyes and hands are to us. It’s a multi-purpose utility tool, used to taste things, explore the presence of new people and animals, express submissiveness, and to let you know that he values your companionship and friendship.

Licking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, and most of the time, the experience isn’t something to worry about: the odd lick from a warm, moist tongue on your hand or ankle is, at worst, tolerable and, I must admit, I actually find it pretty adorable when my dog licks me but then again, he’s trained not to overdo it, so I don’t have to worry about the smothering capacities that a 100-pound male Rottweiler’s tongue possesses.

Some dogs just take things too far though, and this is where problems can set in. It’s not pleasant to be persecuted in your own home by a far reaching, agile, mobile, and slobbery tongue. Some won’t let you get a moment’s rest, but will pursue you from bedroom to hallway to lounge to kitchen, making sporadic dive-bombings of affection on your toes, ankles, calves anywhere that flesh is exposed and available. And for a tall dog, the available terrain is much more varied, and thus, enticing – ever had a long, wet dog’s tongue lathering your bellybutton as you stretch up to those elusive top shelves? When unexpected, the resultant shock is more than a trifle unbalancing!

Plenty of dogs won’t restrict themselves to your skin alone, either, and owners of these dogs will attest to the always-visible consistency of dog saliva on clothing: whether your outfit is black, white, or any of the myriads of shades in between, there’s nothing like a viscous patch of dog slobber on a freshly-laundered hemline to advertise your ownership status and your dog’s personal level of demonstrativeness to the world at large. And once it’s dried, it’s there ’till the next laundry run. The physical evidence of a dog’s friendship is like egg white. It’s there, it’s dried on, and it’s not coming off until a combination of suds, hot water and vigorous effort is applied.

And all this because your dog wants to say, I love you.

But there’s often a bit more to it than just plain affection. As with all animal behavior, the logic behind licking is usually more complex and subtle than you might think, and the same gesture can have multiple meanings dependent on circumstance, your dog’s state of mind, and the other behaviors being exhibited at the same time. So, although we can postulate until the cows come home or until your dog stops licking whichever comes first. as to why your dog’s licking you, such generalizations aren’t always 100% accurate: it’s partly up to you to determine the reasoning behind the actions. And, since you know your dog better than anyone else, you’re the ideal candidate for the job.

If your dog is licking you because he’s feeling affectionate and wants to let you know, it’ll be pretty easy to figure out whether this is the case or not. His body language will be relaxed, and although the circumstances will be variable, the surrounding mood will generally be stress-free and happy: for example, when he licks you on the shoulder or ear from his vantage-point in the backseat as you’re driving him to the park, or lathers your hands and wrists with goodwill and devotion when you return home from a hard day at the office. Puppy love is by far the most common cause of licking: it isn’t anything to worry about, and it’s simple to cure him of the habit if the behavior is a problem for you. We’ll get to that further down the page.

Another not infrequent reason for repetitive, owner targeted licking is that your dog’s feeling anxious and stressed. If there are things happening in your dog’s life to cause him unhappiness or tension, he’ll often show it through obsessive compulsive behaviors, and licking is a pretty common manifestation of these. Some dogs will lick themselves, others will lick you, it’s really a case of individual preference.

It shouldn’t be too hard for you to pinpoint the cause of your dog’s less than relaxed mindset. Is he getting enough attention and mental stimulation, or is he cooped up inside for long hours each day by himself? Does he get enough exercise and outdoors time for sniffing, exploration, and general exuberant tomfoolery? Do you pay him lots of attention when you’re at home, or tend to greet him hurriedly before rushing off to your next commitment?

These are all things that you’ll need to consider, before adapting your lifestyle to address the issue accordingly. Depending on the circumstances surrounding the licking, and the overall quality of your dog’s life, you may need to make some general adjustments of your own to ensure that, when the licking does stop, it’s because you’ve treated the cause, not the symptoms – otherwise, you’re just trying to take away a valuable outlet for his negative emotions, which is unrealistic (and unfair on your friend, too).

Perhaps you need to come home more often during the day. Perhaps you need to get up half an hour earlier in the morning to give him a more substantial pre-work walk (it varies from dog to dog, but as a general rule of thumb, most dogs function best and are at their most relaxed with an hour and a half’s exercise each day). Or maybe you just need to spend more time with him in the evenings, playing, grooming, training, and just hanging out together.

Make sure you’re paying attention to his demeanor (does he seem content?) and his activity levels before you try to get rid of the licking behavior as a stand-alone problem: even though he can’t talk, he can still use his tongue to try and tell you something, and this might be what’s happening here. Having said that though, most of the time excessive licking is simply due to excessive exuberance in your dog. He’s happy, he loves you, and he has to let you know right now.

When you want to get the point across that his licking’s getting a bit too much for you, a simple change in your body language will convey your message loud and clear. All you need to do is withdraw the outward display of your affection for him to understand that, actually, you don’t like it when he covers your skin in a composite of saliva, dog-food particulate matter, scraps of debris from his fur, and general oral-cavity detritus.

In plain English, this means that you just have to turn yourself away from him: when he starts to lick, get up and move away instantly. Make sure your face and eyes are dramatically averted from him: face in the complete opposite direction. Preface this with a revolted-sounding “No!” if you like (I say “No lick!” but you can use whatever comes naturally. Just keep the phrase short and easily-identifiable so your dog quickly learns to recognize it).

At this point, he’ll probably get up and follow you. Wait for him to do so: the licking should start again soon. When it does, repeat the process. Withdraw all signs of affection from him again: turn away, get up and leave, and don’t pay him any attention or talk to him (apart from another “No!” in adisgusted. I can’t believe you haven’t got the message yet tone of voice.

It’s likely that your dog will be persistent. He’s not to be easily deterred; you’re the undisputed centerpiece of his life, after all, and he needs to let you know this whenever the opportunity should present itself. You just need to outmatch him in persistency. Be consistent with your actions, and the message will sink in. Don’t feel that you have to shout or react negatively,the simple withdrawal of your love or the appearance of this, anyway is quite enough.

A word of warning: some people really like it when dogs lick them, even if the dog concerned is not their own. If visitors to your house (or admiring passersby on the street) greet your dog and allow him to lick them, you’ll need to intervene or else they’ll undo all your good work. It’s best if you can explain ahead of time that you’re training him not to lick, and then explain the appropriate response for them to take if he should start to lick them. This way, you can be sure that your dog’s not going to be corrupted into unwanted behaviors again and that he’ll learn to express his affection in other, more desirable ways. Read more on licking and other problematic dog behaviors.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Recognizing, preventing and handling dog aggression

2007-12-16T14:22:00.000-08:00

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly but there’s just no getting around it. Dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily. It’s hard to counteract the power of instinct.

But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different aggression types.

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

Aggression towards strangers

Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details. Well not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards strangers.

What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK, he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy and safe around strangers, he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do, it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands. Sit, stay and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills. There’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him. Start off slow and build up his tolerance gradually.

Aggression towards family members

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family.

He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.

What’s resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting. If your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior. Only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in time out, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog trainer.

Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say, this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively. Train regularly. keep obedience sessions short and productive. Not more than fifteen minutes, maybe two or three of these per day.

Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age aren’t comfortable with too much full body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling induced aggression is a bad grooming experience. Nail clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I retrain him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word, yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled, it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats and treats.

Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership.

To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look. You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link: Sitstayfetch

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- CaliforniaTo find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Questions About Dog Nutrition ( 2)

2007-12-11T18:58:00.000-08:00

Do all dog foods include all the vitamins and minerals that my dog needs? Any pet food which is labeled as complete and balanced as regulated by AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) must, by definition, contain all the vitamins and minerals required by the pet for good health. Check the label to make sure the food you are using meets these standards. These nutrients are carefully balanced to provide just the right amount of nutrition for your pet.

Should I give my dog vitamin and mineral supplements?. For most dogs fed a complete and balanced commercial diet, vitamin and mineral supplements are unnecessary and in fact could be harmful. In fact dogs fed commercial diets are more likely to suffer from diseases of nutritional excesses than deficiencies due to the indulgent owner who adds vitamin or mineral supplements to their dogs' diet. Since most commercial diets contain a careful balance of nutrients, additional supplements of one or two nutrients can upset this balance. In some cases such as stress, illness or a particular medical condition, supplements may be beneficial when given under the direction of your veterinarian.

How much should I feed my dog? An excellent place to start is to look for feeding guidelines on the package. Remember that these are guidelines only and that your pet's age, activity level, environmental temperatures all have an effect on how much your pet needs. It is best to weigh your pet regularly and increase the amount if your pet appears to be losing weigh and decrease the amount if your pet appears to be gaining weight. Many pet stores and most veterinarian offices have scales you can use to weight your pet.

How often should I feed my dog? Young, growing dogs should be fed two or three times per day; feed newly weaned puppies three times a day and older growing puppies two times a day. Adult dogs can be fed once or twice a day depending upon owner preference. Adult dogs that are overweight and are being fed to lose weight should be fed twice a day to help minimize the risk of begging.

I have been told that feeding dogs table scraps is not good for them. Why not? Isn't human food okay for my pet? While an occasional piece of popcorn certainly won't hurt your dog, it is generally not recommended that you feed your dog table scraps for the following reasons: First, too many table scraps can add nutrients which would upset the balance of the commercial dog food you are using. Second, your dog will assume he should always have human food along with his regular dog food. Lastly, feeding table scraps encourages a dog to beg for food.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Questions About Dog Nutrition (1)

2007-12-09T11:17:00.000-08:00

Why does my dog need to have a nutritionally balanced diet?

How important are proteins to my dogs diet?

How important are carbohydrates to my dogs diet?

How important are fats to my dogs' diet?

Do all dog foods include all the vitamins and minerals that my dog needs?

Should I give my dog vitamin and mineral supplements?

How much should I feed my dog?

How often should I feed my dog?

Is feeding dogs table scraps acceptable?

Is there a correct amount of vitamins and minerals for my dog?

Is dry food better than canned food?

Is it okay to only feed my dog canned food?

My veterinarian recommended feeding my dog a premium food. Why is premium food better?

What are life stages and how do dog foods for various life stages differ?

Some people leave food out all day long for their dog. Is that okay?

I am afraid to change my dog's food. Will he get sick?

My dog won't eat his food anymore. Why?

Are there things I shouldn't feed my dog?

Is it okay to give my dog treats?

Are some dog treats better than others?

How long will dog food keep?

Why does my dog need to have a nutritionally balanced diet? Dogs require a minimum of 39 nutrients, all in the correct proportion, to maintain their health. These nutrients include amino acids, fats, vitamins and minerals. The nutrients must be in a form that can be used by dogs. The food containing these nutrients must also be palatable so dogs can eat the food containing these nutrients. Lastly don't forget the most important nutrient, water. Dogs should always have access to clean water.

How important are proteins to my dogs diet? Are some proteins better than others?
Proteins are made up of amino acids and these amino acids are the building blocks the dog uses to make muscles, hair, skin and enzymes. Since each protein has a unique mix of these amino acids, proteins differ widely in their value to the dog. Generally, egg protein is regarded as the best, with animal proteins generally being higher quality than plant proteins. Many foods blend just the right mix of animal and plant proteins to provide the optimal mix of amino acids.

How important are carbohydrates to my dogs diet? Are some carbohydrates better than others? The carbohydrates found in pet foods usually come from plant sources like corn, rice, wheat, sorghum, barley and oats. While not absolutely necessary, carbohydrates are usually found in most pet foods because they are an excellent source of energy. Cooked carbohydrates from the grains listed above have all been shown to be readily available to dogs. A recent research report shows the more commonly used grains (rice, corn, wheat and barley) to be highly digestible while sorghum was less digestible.

Another class of carbohydrates provides bulk to the food and small amounts are generally regarded as being beneficial in helping promote the proper digestion and movement of food in the animal. These carbohydrates are referred to as fiber and common sources include beet pulp, rice bran, wheat middlings, corn bran and cellulose. Since these fiber sources are not well digested, they are commonly found in lite dog foods to decrease the calories in the food.

How important are fats to my dogs diet? Are some fats better than others?
Fats have three important roles in a pet's diet. First, they provide energy and there is more than twice the amount of energy in an ounce of fat than an ounce of protein or carbohydrate. Second, they help in making the food more palatable, as long as the fat is of high quality and is properly protected from spoilage. Finally, fats provide essential fatty acids to your pet, which they need for a healthy skin and shiny coat. Some researchers believe the right balance of fatty acids is as important as the actual levels of fatty acids.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Bathing, Brushing & Nail Trimming Your Dog

2007-12-03T21:12:00.000-08:00

Brushing

Regular brushing removes dead hair from the coat before it mats, stimulates the skin and helps distribute the natural oils, producing a healthy, shiny coat. Begin brushing at the head, working toward the tail and down the legs. Always brush in the direction of hair growth. Pay particular attention to the legs and flanks, and areas that easily mat. The final step in brushing is to go through the coat using a fine/medium toothed comb, checking for any mats that may still be in the coat.

If your new friend is a longer-haired breed, you'll have to brush his undercoat to keep it from building up. Most long-haired breeds have an undercoat, which is the softer fur inside his coat. If the undercoat builds up, it can prevent him from properly regulating his body temperature. Brushing of both long and short-haired breeds also helps prevent excessive shedding which goes a long way in keeping your home (not to mention your wardrobe) free of dog hair.

Bathing

In addition to keeping your dog smelling fresh, a good bath also keeps his skin clean. Dirty skin can be oily, causing your pet to scratch and lick himself, resulting in sore spots and hairless patches. A good shampoo and proper conditioning will keep his skin healthy and make his coat easier to brush. Speaking of brushing, be sure to brush your dog's coat before every bath, to loosen any matted hair. Mats will only tighten when wet, so it's important to get rid of them before the bath. Also, a dog's skin has a different pH balance than ours, so the two of you shouldn't share shampoo. You'll find a variety of shampoos and conditioners made just for dogs.

Nail Trimming

Regular nail trimming is important to your dog's health and well-being. Never use ordinary scissors to trim your dog's nails. Use trimmers that are specially designed for dogs. Hold the dog's paw firmly, and cut off the tip of the nail with a single stroke. Be very careful to stop short of the quick, the blood vessel inside the nail. Cutting the nails right after bathing will make the quick softer; applying baby oil will serve the same purpose. Follow up by filing your dog's nails with a nail file for a smooth, snag-free finish

Smart Tip on Nail Clipping

Rub your puppy's paws often so he's used to having his feet touched. This will make nail trims much easier when he's an adult.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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What to Ask When Choosing to Board Your Dog

2007-11-25T17:56:00.000-08:00

Pet boarding services are an excellent way to prevent your dog's inherent stress from being confined on an airplane or in a car for long hours. Before you board your dog, make a personal visit to the pet boarding facility. A personal visit is essential to determine whether or not the facility will be to you and your pet's satisfaction. During your visit, observe or ask about the following:

If your dog has special needs (special medication, diet or feeding schedule) ask up front if the pet boarding facility can accommodate these needs.

The general appearance of the pet boarding facility should look neat and smell clean.

Observe the space where your dog will be boarding. It should be free of dirt, fecal accumulation and odors. There should be a strict schedule of disinfecting with effective chemicals.

Ask about the credentials of the people who work at the boarding facility. Are they trained to recognize signs of illness and distress? What steps are in place should a pet become ill while being boarded? How does the facility obtain veterinary help when needed?

Inquire about feeding procedures.

Ensure the facility has immunization requirements and flea and tick control policies to ensure your pet will be safe from infections from other dogs while boarded.

Find out what kind of exercise and playtime opportunities exist for your dog. Most dogs will enjoy some time to run, stretch and socialize. Inquire about the supervision provided during these outings. Ask how frequently during the day your dog will be checked on.

I Love Dogs: Los Angeles- California

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Brushing Your Dog: Key To Getting That Beautiful Coat

2007-11-12T18:04:00.000-08:00

Brushing removes dead hair from the coat before it mats, stimulates the skin and evenly distributes the natural oils over the coat. This allows the individual hairs to lie more smoothly, look shinier and repel dirt. Try to spend just a few minutes every day or so brushing the coat instead of waiting until the coat is tangled then trying to demat it. You and your pet will be happier for it.

Puppies and brushes:

Puppies, are constantly shedding their puppy coat. They should get used to being groomed and handled as soon as they come into the home. If your puppy just "won't hold still long enough" to be brushed, groom in short sessions and just brush a small section at a time until the puppy gets used to being brushed. Talk to him softly and treat him gently. And as with all pets, remember to praise him quietly if he's still. End the brushing session on a positive note, like when he's being still. What should your grooming session consist of?

Remove all mats before bathing your pet:

Getting a tangled, matted coat wet will cause the coat to mat up even more. Water tends to tighten the mat, shampoo gets caught in the mat and is hard to rinse out, drying shrinks it into an even tighter knot. You can make the brushing and dematting process easier on yourself and your pet if you dampen the coat before brushing with a coat conditioner or tangle remover.

Brushing a dry coat will cause static electricity that will damage and break off the ends of the hair. Spray the coat well with the conditioner and allow it to sit on the dog for several minutes or apply it to each layer as you brush. These are especially helpful when working with dogs with long, flowing coats, such as the Maltese, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Silky Terrier and Yorkshire Terrier.

Brush your pet's hair layer by layer so that it pulls the least on the skin.
Hold the unbrushed hair down, just above the section of hair you want to brush. This allows you to brush layer by layer, working in the direction of the hair growth. If you find a knot of hair, hold the hair at the base of the mat so that it doesn't pull on the pet's skin as much.

Watch your pet's body language as you brush and demat: No pet enjoys having their skin tugged at. Try to brush a little more gently if your pet shows discomfort. Brush burn is the result of applying excessive force when brushing the coat, and can be caused when hair is tugged too aggressively, or from brush bristles harshly scraping the skin. This abrasiveness causes the skin of the pet to become irritated, and could lead to dermatitis. So be firm, yet gentle, when brushing your pet.

Brush the head last:

Pets tend to object less to those things they can't see. The head is a sensitive area for many pets, and you want to keep the pet comfortable as long as possible. Therefore, starting at the rear is less stressful on the pet.

Combing: The final step in brushing.
The final step in brushing is to go through the coat using a fine/medium toothed comb, checking for any mats that may still be in the coat.

Poodles and other non-shedding breeds:

Most people believe that Poodles do not shed. This, however, is a myth, because Poodles do shed their dead hair just as most breeds do. Poodles have a dense undercoat that is course and curly. The dead hair actually gets caught in the undercoat and is unable to fall out through the coat. This causes the coat to mat easily if dead hair is not removed frequently by brushing.

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Supplements

2007-11-08T18:47:00.000-08:00

Supplements are available to address a number of health needs including:

Skin & Coat:

If you've ruled out fleas as a cause of your dog's excessive itching, the most likely culprit is dry skin. A supplement rich in essential fatty acids will help with dry skin, plus make his coat extra-shiny.

Joint Pain & Stiffness:

Your dog's age, size and breed may all be factors contributing to painful, stiff joints. Look for supplements that contain ingredients like glucosamine, chondroitin or cosequin to help ease pain and stiffness.

Anxiety:

Being left home alone, thunderstorms or unfamiliar guests can all leave your dog feeling a little anxious. Look for natural supplements with ingredients like chamomile or valerian to help ease anxiety.

Please talk with your vet before starting your dog on a vitamin or supplement program. The desired effects may not be apparent for a period of weeks or months depending on the type of supplement being used. Ongoing supplementation may be necessary to maintain desired effects once achieved.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Winning The War Against Fleas

2007-11-01T22:21:00.000-07:00

Fleas are one of your pet's greatest enemies. These tiny, wingless insects jump onto cats, dogs, and people and ingest their blood. Fleas flourish worldwide in moderate humidity and temperatures. Only extreme, prolonged cold weather kills them. Their complex life cycle includes several microscopic stages including egg, larvae, and pupae. Fleas can live for several months.

What are the Dangers to My Pet from Fleas?

Fleas aren't just a nuisance for you and your pet; these pests can cause the following medical problems:

Tapeworms: If your pet eats a flea, which is likely during self-grooming, he could become infected with the immature tapeworms fleas can carry. These long, flat parasites can cause weight loss and diarrhea, and can be contagious to you and your family. One sure sign of tapeworms is the "white rice" you may find on your pet's coat underneath the tail. These are tapeworm segments, and they also can be found on your pet's bedding. If you see them, take your pet to your veterinarian right away to get rid of these pests. Fleas often bite humans when other food sources aren't available, but they do not thrive on human blood. Their bite leaves a red, itchy spot on the skin.

What are the signs that a pet has fleas?

The obvious sign is seeing adult fleas on the body. A flea-bitten pet will scratch a lot because fleas bite the pet leaving behind saliva that is an irritant to many pets. A pet that is infested with fleas will scratch persistently, which could result in a case of dermatitis.

How can I find out if my pet has fleas?

Place your pet on a white sheet and comb the coat with a flea comb. Now look at the sheet. If you see small black specks, it could be flea dirt. Flea dirt is actually flea feces, made up mostly of blood sucked from the pet that is eliminated through the flea's digestive system as dried blood. Flea dirt turns bloody when water is applied. So if you want to make sure, add a drop of water to the specks and see if it turns a reddish color. If it doesn't, odds are that your pet just needs a good bath.

When can pets become infested with fleas?

Pets can become infested with parasites at any time of the year. However, flea infestation is more prevalent in the spring when cold temperatures turn warmer, making it a more hospitable climate for parasites. You are more apt to encounter fleas in warm, humid areas. Flea populations generally don't develop in dry climates.

I've been using insecticides, but I'm still seeing fleas. What am I doing wrong?

You may see some fleas for 10 days to several weeks following treatment. These are newly hatched fleas which were unaffected by your earlier treatments because of their chemically resistant cocoons. You'll need to re-treat the home and yard 7 to 10 days after the initial treatment to kill the next wave of fleas, and continue your treatments until all existing fleas have completed their life cycle.

Are flea control products safe?

Flea control products can be dangerous if not used properly. Always read the label and instructions carefully. And make sure you use the product only for the prescribed pets. Some products are not appropriate for use with cats. If you have any question regarding the safety of any flea control product with your pet, consult your veterinarian before you use the product.

What are the steps needed to stop a flea infestation?
Your pet isn't the only one at risk. People can get irritating flea bites too. Ridding your home and yard of these pests takes time, several steps and a strong commitment to success.

Here's what you need to do:

Shampoo and dip your pet. The best place to start in eliminating fleas is to make sure you have eliminated them from your pet. Start with a good bath using a flea shampoo. These special shampoos contain ingredients that will kill all adult fleas in your pet's coat. You may also want to consider having your pet dipped to insure you get all the adult fleas. If you want your pet dipped, we recommend that you use a professional groomer or your veterinarian. Use the store locator to find a PetSmart groomer or veterinarian near you.

Remember, a good bath with flea shampoo as a dip will not keep fleas from coming back. After your pet is washed free of existing fleas and debris you should consider one of the on-animal or oral products available from your veterinarian or through PetSmart.com. These products prevent flea eggs from hatching and when used in conjunction with home and yard control can help eliminate fleas from your pets.

Take back your home. You can't conquer a flea problem by treating only your pets; you also must treat your house. Fleas can live for months without food, and every female flea can lay several thousand eggs, which can survive in carpeted areas, wood floors, and furniture until it's time to hatch and re-infest your pet.

One simple way to clean the flea eggs out of your house is to vacuum several times a week, tape the bags shut, and throw them away. Also clean your pet's favorite hangouts and launder its bed regularly. Use a professional fogger in each room and sprays for hard-to-reach spots. Contact your veterinarian for professional advice and the best products, and make sure you use only foggers and sprays that combine insect growth regulators with an insecticide. Don't undertake this project uninformed - flea products can be hazardous!

Re-conquer your yard. Use professional, concentrated yard sprays, many of which attach easily to the end of a garden hose for application. It's especially important to spray moist and shaded areas of your yard. Spray dog houses and kennels with an indoor premise spray, and allow all areas to dry before allowing your pet access to them. Fleas are tough! Be sure to start these procedures simultaneously and treat all of your pets - the best time is now.

Prevention through continued maintenance.

Pets will continue to pick up new fleas emerging from their cocoons. Once the infestation is gone, pets can pick up new fleas when they go to untreated areas or when an untreated pet comes into your yard or home.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Getting The Mats Out Of Your Dog's Coat

2007-10-25T20:39:00.000-07:00

I brush my dog's coat. Why do I still have problems with mats? What tools should I use to get the mats out of my dog's coat? What should I do if I can't get the mat out? Should I have my dog shaved rather than try to brush the mats out? I've heard that when you shave a dog, the hair might not grow back. Is that true?

I brush my dog's coat. Why do I still have problems with mats?

Are you brushing your dog regularly?:

Generally, longhaired dogs should brushed at least 3-5 times a week. Shorthaired dogs should be brushed at least 2-3 times a week.

Is your dog a puppy moving into adulthood?:

Longhaired dogs that are about one year old are leaving the puppy stage. As they shed the puppy coat, it needs to be brushed out so it doesn't mat.

Do you live where there are long periods of humidity and damp weather?
Dogs that spend time in water and snow will mat easily if they are not properly brushed and dried afterward.

What tools should I use to get the mats out of my dog's coat?:

The thin wire teeth on a slicker brush will work out small mats. For tougher cases, try one of these tools:

Undercoat Rake:

The best-kept secret of the grooming tools, also known as a rake comb, it is ideal for removing dead undercoat hair and is best used on coarse-textured or large breed dogs, such as the Golden Retriever, Collie or Samoyed. You'll generally see one to three rows of teeth that are long and spaced far apart.

Mat Comb:

Mat combs are used for cutting through matted hair without destroying the coat. These combs have long, heavy teeth or blades that are sharp on one side. These teeth can be resharpened and should be kept in good condition. Mat combs come with a handle and a thumb rest for better control.

Mat Splitter:

A mat splitter is a tool simply designed with a handle and a sharp blade. It is used to "saw" through the mat by actually cutting the mat into sections. The splitter is placed between the skin and the mat with the sharp edge facing outward. Be extremely careful to avoid injuring the dog when using this tool.

What should I do if I can't get the mat out?:

Resist the temptation to use scissors. The risk of cutting the dog is just too high. Instead, consider consulting a professional groomer. They are equipped to handle these situations. Another possibility is to have the dog partly or completely shaved.

Should I have my dog shaved rather than try to brush the mats out?
If your dog's coat is severely matted, the best alternative might be shaving. The pain of pulling and tugging to remove extensive or very tight mats is not pleasant for the dog. Shaving removes all of the matted, tangled fur, and allows a new coat to grow. After shaving, a routine of regular brushing will keep the dogs new fur mat-free.

I've heard that when you shave a dog, the hair might not grow back. Is that true?
A typically healthy dog will certainly re-grow his hair coat after shaving. How quickly the hair grows back will depend upon many factors, such as breed, age, and diet.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Questions About Advanced Nutrition Food

2007-10-21T15:22:00.000-07:00

What are the benefits of Advanced Nutrition Food?

What are the higher quality ingredients in Advanced Nutrition Food?

My dog no longer likes his food, what should I do?

My dog's coat looks dull, what should I do?

What are the benefits of Advanced Nutrition Food?

Advanced Nutrition Food is more digestive because it uses higher quality proteins- that means your pet gets more nutrients in every ounce of food. It also means you feed less, so there is around 20% less stool. Because you feed less, it only costs about 10-15 cents more per day to give your pet superior nutrition.

What are the higher quality ingredients in Advanced Nutrition Food?

Advanced Nutrition Food uses high-quality animal proteins. Many basic pet foods use lower quality proteins such as Wheat Middling, Meat and Bone Meal and Wheat Mill Run.

My dog no longer likes his food, what should I do?

If you're already feeding an Advanced Nutrition Food you can try mixing it with a canned version of an Advanced Nutrition Food to add more flavor. If you're feeding a basic pet food, switch to a higher quality Advanced Nutrition Food and transition to the new food over a 10 day period.

My dog's coat looks dull, can premium food help make his coat shiny?

Yes. Try feeding a Lamb and Rice Advanced Nutrition Food which has more amino acids for a shinier coat.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Tools For Trimming Your Dog's Coat

2007-10-17T19:06:00.000-07:00

If you plan to trim the hair on your dog's coat, using the right tools will make all the difference in achieving the look you want.

Clippers:

A clipper has a large variety of blades that can be changed easily and quickly. If you use a clipper on your dog, you should also use a spray product used to cool and lubricate the snap-on blades. While using the clipper, frequently spray this product on the blades to control heat build-up and help prevent clipper burn. This product can also be used on scissor blades to help prevent rusting and keep the blades clean.

Blades:

All snap-on blades have the number of the blade stamped on it. The higher the number, the closer the cut. To keep your blades in top shape, use a blade wash solution. When a blade is new, it must be attached to the clipper and immersed in this solution. Running the clipper for about one minute will remove the protective coating from the blade. After that, the blades should be run in this solution after every grooming session to clean them and to remove hair and dirt. Follow this up with a spray of lubricant.

Snap-on Combs:

These combs, when snapped onto your clipper, greatly reduce clipping and scissoring time. They allow you to leave the coat longer while using clippers, giving the coat a more scissored look than a clipped look.

Straight Shears:

When purchasing scissors, buy the best quality shear you can afford. Poor quality shear will need to be sharpened more often and will cost you more money in the long run. Straight shears, also known as barber shears, are used for cutting the coat to correct length and for a fine, finishing touch.

Curved Shears:

Curved scissors are used for scissoring topknots and pompon on Poodles. These usually have a blunt tip.

Blunt-tipped Scissors:

These come in both straight and curved scissors. These are recommended for any trimming around the face and eyes.

Thinning Shears:

Thinning shears are used for thinning out thick hair, and in some cases, for blending longer hair into shorter hair. These shears are not used for heavy cutting.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Feeding Your Senior Dog

2007-10-13T18:17:00.000-07:00

Join the weight watchers:

Older dogs tend to put on weight as their metabolism slows and creakiness sets in. But excess weight puts added pressure on sore joints and backs. Forgo weight-reducing or senior diets, which may not have enough high-quality meat ingredients. Instead, give your dog slightly smaller servings of a high-quality food. Supplement the diet with fresh vegetables. Pretty soon you'll have a thinner and healthier pooch.

Stop the handouts:

Resist the temptation to slip your dog table scraps. They won't help his weight, and his tummy will take even less kindly to rich food than it did when he was younger. Even a tiny piece of Easter ham is a tough thing for an older dog to handle.
Tantalize his taste buds:

Loss of appetite can be a sign of illness in any dog, young or old. But if your older pet has a clean bill of health and still doesn't go for his food, it might be that his sense of smell has diminished.

You can make mealtimes more drool-worthy by adding some smelly, low-fat additions to his food, like tuna oil or clam juice. Or try heating some canned food in the microwave to warm it up and bring out the aroma, then serve it with his regular meal.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Pet Nutrition (2)

2007-10-10T18:20:00.000-07:00

Make sure the food is fresh:

When you purchase Pet food, check for freshness and purchase only the amount necessary for your Pet. Don't buy a forty-pound bag of food for your Chihuahua! Store Pet food in a cool, dry place and keep it tightly closed. Discard uneaten food and always place fresh food in a clean bowl. In general, hard food (or "kibble") is preferred for maintaining the teeth and minimizing tartar build-up. Soft, canned food tends to be more palatable and can be stored longer.

Feed the right amount:

Ask your doctor or check the label for how much to feed according to your Pet's ideal weight. Habits to avoid: feeding Pets as much as they want or feeding a large amount at one time. Doing so can lead to obesity, gastrointestinal upset, or even bloat-a life-threatening condition.

Maintain a daily routine:

A regular schedule will help your Pet keep normal elimination habits--and avoid indoor accidents. Younger Pets need to be fed more frequently, as they are usually more energetic and burn more calories. Small puppies and very active dogs can suffer life-threatening decreases in blood sugar if they're not fed frequently enough. Your veterinarian can help you develop a feeding regimen for your Pet.

Avoid "people" food:

Your Pet's digestive system is simpler than yours and can be easily upset by changes. Feeding table scraps can cause stomach upset or even a life-threatening pancreatitis. It also can lead to frequent begging, a behavior you may tire of quickly.

Life Cycle Feeding:

Pets' nutritional requirements change as they age. Puppies need puppy food because it is higher in energy and protein, but feeding it to an adult dog can lead to obesity. Likewise, older Pets need diets restricted in fat and supplemented with fiber for their optimum health. Ask your veterinarian to help you choose the best food for your Pet's age.

Remember, you are what you eat--and so is your Pet! To keep your Pet as healthy as possible, follow the simple diet guidelines above and see your veterinarian regularly.

Did You Know:

Many cats eat in cycles, a trait passed down from wild ancestors that hunted for food. Don't mistake these peaks and valleys as signs that your cat dislikes its food. Switching Pet food brands frequently in response to your cat's whims can reinforce bad eating habits and create finicky eaters.

It's normal for dogs and cats to eat grass. In fact, dogs in the wild eat grass to supplement their diet with vegetation. You don't have to discourage your Pet from nibbling on grass unless the ground has been treated with herbicides, insecticides, or fertilizers, or unless eating grass causes vomiting.

Obesity in Pets can lead to heart and respiratory problems, diabetes, gastrointestinal disorders, arthritis, and other joint diseases. Instead of offering your Pet snacks as a reward, spend a few extra minutes playing with him or her. After all, your affection is the sweetest reward.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles California
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Pet Nutrition (1)

2007-10-05T19:23:00.000-07:00

What makes a healthy diet? Along with regular exercise and veterinary care, careful feeding is perhaps the best way you can contribute to your Pet's prolonged good health.

Here are the basic nutrients every Pet needs:

Water is the most essential nutrient in any diet. Your Pet's body is made up of approximately 70 percent water and will quickly perish without it. Make sure you allow your Pet access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Carbohydrates supply energy and come from sugars, starch, and fiber from plant sources. Carbohydrates help energize the brain and muscles, making your Pet bright and active.

Fats also supply energy and in the right amounts help build strong cells and promote nutrient absorption. But too much fat can lead to such obesity-related health problems as diabetes, heart disease, and canine osteoarthritis.

Proteins are required for a healthy coat, skin, and nails. Your Pet's body uses the amino acids in proteins to make enzymes and hormones in the blood stream and to maintain a healthy immune system. Proteins can come from plant and meat sources, but cats and dogs need a high-quality animal protein. For example, cats with a deficiency in taurine (a meat amino acid) can develop heart disease and blindness.

Vitamins and minerals help regulate many body systems. For example, your Pet needs the minerals calcium and phosphorous for strong bones. Antioxidant vitamins like vitamin E and C help boost your Pet's immune system during times of stress.

Many diseases result from a deficiency in vitamins and minerals, and in those cases veterinarians often prescribe supplements for sick Pets. For example, doctors may use vitamin B to improve appetite, and zinc and vitamin E for certain skin diseases. Ask your doctor to recommend the best supplement for your Pet's needs.

Keys To A Balanced Diet:

How do you make sure your Pet's diet is healthy?

Feed premium Pet foods. Premium foods, are usually sold only at Pet stores. These foods offer high-quality ingredients, are made by companies known for nutrition research, and show a solid track record of quality and palatability. Feeding generic Pet foods may lead to obesity, irregular bowel movements or excess intestinal gas.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Nutrition For Small Sized Dogs

2007-09-29T11:55:00.000-07:00

Despite their smaller stature, small sized dogs are often the first to speak and the last to back down. They tend to rely on their wit and clever nature to make up for their small physical state. Small Dogs Aren't Just Smaller.

As you might expect, small dogs differ from larger dog breeds in more ways than reduced size. Consider that per pound of body weight, small dogs require higher levels of energy in their diet, while having a much smaller stomach size. In addition, on average small dogs live longer (up to twice as long) as some larger dog breeds.

This longer lifespan means small dogs have a higher risk for experiencing some health conditions that may be associated with advanced age, including: teeth and gum disease, heart conditions, skin conditions, and ear and eye disorders. Lastly, small breed dogs have a smaller mouth and tend to be picky eaters.

Small Dog Nutrition:

Given the small dog characteristics described above, nutrition for small sized dogs should go far beyond a smaller kibble. Their physical health differences are best nutritionally supported by food fully designed for small breed dogs. Key attributes of small breed food are:

Energy Levels:

Specifically, small breed food should be more concentrated with higher protein and fat levels, sourced from ingredients such as chicken, fish, and egg. These high-quality protein sources provide key amino acids that work to help keep your dog's vital organs healthy.

Dental Benefits:

It's also important to look for dental benefits since small dogs are likely to experience oral health problems. Specially formulated premium nutrition can help reduce tartar buildup, thereby improving overall oral health. This will also help maintain your dog's fresh breath.

Immune Support:

As they age, additional stress is put on the dog's immune system. Since small dog breeds typically have a longer lifespan, strong immune support is particularly critical for these dogs. Antioxidants including vitamin E are key nutrients to help keep a small breed's immune system healthy. Also look for beta-carotene, an antioxidant that can help rejuvenate an older dog's immune system-particularly appropriate given a small dog's longer lifespan.

Taste
In terms of palatability, first look for a diet with concentrated nutrition from high levels of animal-based fat and protein, which tends to improve flavor. Also look for a reduced-size kibble, which can help to promote the overall eating experience. A complete and balanced food specifically designed for a small dogs will help ensure your small dog is always at his or her best.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Soothing Your Dog's Fears

2007-09-23T16:30:00.000-07:00

Dogs express their fear in different ways. They may bite or scratch, run and hide, tremble or even urinate when afraid. Your job is to figure out what's scaring your dog and help ease and overcome his fears.

Determining why your dog is fearful isn't always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience.

It's essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog's fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation. Most fears won't go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. With time and patience, most fears can be treated using desensitization. Speak to a pet trainer for assistance. To desensitize your dog, repeatedly expose your dog to low levels and for a small amount of time to the stimuli causing him fear.

Reward your dog with treats and praise for his calm behavior in the presence of the stimuli. Gradually increase the exposure to the stimuli. As long as he remains calm, reward him with treats and praise. If at any point he becomes anxious over the stimuli, remove the stimuli and proceed at a slower pace. This process may take a long time. You should proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.

Smart Tip: If you have to drag your dog to the car or he trembles uncontrollably during the ride, ask yourself whether you take him in the car only when he has to go to the veterinarian or kennel (or somewhere else that he might find unpleasant). If the answer is yes, take him for a ride around town or go somewhere pleasant, such as a playground. Do this several times so that he gets the idea that a car ride doesn't always lead to a scary place.

I Love Dogs: Los Angeles- California

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Your Puppy's Papers

2007-09-16T17:04:00.000-07:00

If you're adopting a purebred puppy, the breeder should have the following paperwork in order for you.

The Americal Kennel Club (AKC) registration application: The breeder must have an AKC registration application for each puppy in the litter. Some breeders will hold this form until they receive proof that the puppy has been sprayed or neutered from your veterinarian.

The registration application will have the puppys breed, sex, color, date of birth on it as well as the sire and dams registration numbers and the breeders name and signature. The application is divided into two sections. one section must be filled in by the breeder and the bottom section you will need to complete. Once the form is complete, mail the application back to the AKC along with the registration fee indicated on the form. AKC will mail you your puppy's AKC registration certificate, which is referred to as your puppy's papers.

Pedigree: The breeder should have a copy of the litter's pedigree for you (a pedigree is like a family tree). At least three generations should be recorded on the pedigree, but some breeders list as many as five or six generations. Check the pedigree for titles. Titles show you the quality of the puppyâ€™s bloodline.

Sales contract: In addition to the registration application and the pedigree, the breeder should ask you to sign a sales contract. Typically, a sales contract outlines the breeder's expectations. For example, the breeder may require you to spay or neuter the puppy and to keep it on a leash or in a fenced-in yard when it's outside. The breeder may want to be notified if you can no longer keep the puppy or plan to sell it. (Often the breeder will want a chance to buy the puppy back if for some reason you don't want it anymore.)

Health certificate: You should also receive a health certificate from the breeder's veterinarian stating whether the puppy has had its first series of shots and been de-wormed. Your breeder should also give you your the puppy's medical records, which is simply a recording of the puppy's vaccinations and any other medical care it has received.

Health guarantee: Reputable breeders offer health guarantees to anyone who buys one of their puppies. Health guarantees usually state that you can get your money back within 48 to 72 hours if your own veterinarian finds something wrong with the puppy. In addition, some breeders guarantee that they'll replace the puppy if it develops a congenital (hereditary) illness.

Feeding schedule and medical records: The breeder should have written down the puppy's feeding schedule for you. In addition, he or she should also give you enough puppy food for a day or two. (If you abruptly change a puppy's diet, you'll make it sick. So, you'll have to buy the same brand of puppy food the breeder uses at first.)

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Choosing A Puppy

2007-09-14T19:26:00.000-07:00

If you're choosing a puppy from a litter, begin by evaluating the litter as a whole. If most of the puppies run away from you, don't buy one. Healthy puppies should be happy and playful. They might nibble at your shoes or scamper toward you.

If the litter is behaving normally, look at each of the puppies individually. Cluck your tongue, jingle your car keys, and watch how the puppies react. Don't select the shyest puppy. Shy puppies almost always grow up to be shy adults. Don't select the boldest puppy either. A middle-of-the-road puppy almost always makes the best pet.

Never adopt a puppy unless you're sure it's healthy. Healthy puppies shouldn't cough, sneeze, or wheeze.

Inspect the puppys coast by running your hand over its fur and make sure you don't see any bald spots. While a puppy's coat is certainly nothing like an adult'sâ€”itâ€™s thinner and fuzzierâ€”it should be even and soft. Examine the puppy's skin and make certain it's free of red splotches. Make sure the puppy doesn't have fleas.

Examine the puppy's eyes. Young puppies might have blue eyes that will change with age. The puppy's eyes should be clear, however, and they shouldn't be runny.

Make sure the pup's ears are clean inside. If you're buying a purebred puppy and its ears are supposed to prick up, be aware that puppies' ears don't stand for about 12 weeks. In addition, the ears sometimes go up and down during teething.

If you're buying a purebred puppy from a breeder, make sure its hind dewclaws have been removed. If your breed is supposed to have its tail docked, this should already be done, too.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Types Of Dog Toys.

2007-09-08T16:21:00.000-07:00

There are toys meant for solo play and toys designed for you and your dog to play together. To keep things interesting, choose a few types of toys from the following list and rotate them often depending on your dog's mood and activity level.

Stuffed Toys:

These soft, plush friends make great companions when your dog is in the mood for quiet snuggle time. Many stuffed toys squeak or make other noises to capture your dog's attention. The most important thing to remember about stuffed toys is to take them out of the rotation when you notice signs of wear like torn seams or loose limbs.

Vinyl or Latex Toys:

Soft, smooth and squishy, vinyl or latex toys are great for older dogs, because they're easy on sensitive teeth and gums. Younger dogs who aren't aggressive chewers will also enjoy them from time to time.

Solid Rubber Toys:

These are the ones for the tough, tenacious chewers. They're built to last and give your dog a good chewing workout. Plus, their interesting shapes will cause them to bounce unpredictably for extra fun.

Treat Dispensing Toys:

These are balls or other shapes designed with hollow areas meant to be filled with treats. They're great for keeping your dog occupied for long periods of time, as they usually won't give up until every last bit of treat is retrieved.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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8 Hints To keep His Coat Clean

2007-09-03T17:12:00.000-07:00

Pet dandruff looks like a really bad case of people dandruff you can easily see it with most animals, says Nancy Scanlan, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Sherman Oaks, California.

While occasionally dandruff can indicate a serious health problem, like, parasites or skin infections, more often it occurs when skin cells naturally proliferate -- form, die and flake off -- at an accelerated rate.

To forego the flakes, here's what experts suggest:

For Dogs And Cats

Take the plunge: Since dandruff is a sign of flaky skin, giving your pet regular baths will help wash the flakes away before they accumulate, says Scott Weldy, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in El Toro, California. Bathing your pet once a month in winter and twice a month in summer may clear up the problem for good, he says.

To bathe your pet, use warm, not hot, water. Use a mild shampoo like baby shampoo and massage it well into your pet's skin. Then rinse thoroughly and dry him well, says Dr. Scanlan.

For cats, the big struggle isn't getting rid of the dandruff, it's getting them into the bath in the first place. For tips, see "How to Give Your Cat a Bath".

Go for more power

If baby shampoo doesn't seem to help, try using a pet dandruff shampoo that contains sulfur or salicylic acid. Leave the lather in place for about five minutes to give the active ingredients time to work, advises Dr. Weldy.

Don't use medicated shampoos made for humans, because they can be harmful for pets, adds Wayne Rosenkrantz, D.V.M., a veterinary dermatologist in private practice in Garden Grove, California. It's also a good idea, when buying shampoo for your cat, to check the label carefully. Products that are safe for dogs may be harmful for cats.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Plane Travel With Your Puppy

2007-08-28T19:04:00.000-07:00

Puppies must be at least eight weeks old to travel on an airplane. If you do decide to travel by plane with your puppy, do some research first and arrange your plans far in advance of the trip.

Always choose an airline that offers nonstop service, a flight without stops to and from your destination. If you can't get nonstop service, try to get a direct or through flight, which is a flight that stops but doesn't require passengers to change planes.

Naturally, if you have to travel on a direct flight, look for one with as little time on the ground as possible during the stopover. Also, use the same airline for your entire trip.

If your puppy is small, it can travel in the passenger cabin with you or it can travel as checked baggage. However, if your puppy is larger, you'll have to ship it as either standard cargo or counter-to-counter cargo.

The Passenger Cabin:

Most airlines will allow your puppy to travel in the passenger cabin if you follow certain rules. For example, puppies in the passenger cabin must remain in a safe kennel that's placed under the seat in front of you. A kennel is actually a Pet carrier.

If you want your puppy to fly with you in the passenger cabin, make your reservations as early as possible. Airlines restrict the number of Pets allowed in the passenger cabin of each flight.

Also, the clerk needs to assign you a seat with enough room for your puppy. Space under the aisle seats can be narrower than space under the center and window seats.

In addition, some airlines don't allow passengers with Pets to sit in an exit row. So, if you don't register early, the flight may be either closed to additional Pets, or there may not be a seat left with enough room for your puppy.

Check your airlines for the maximum dimensions for a kennel in the passenger cabin. In general, the maximum dimensions are usually around 21 inches long, 13 to 16 inches wide and 8 or 9 inches high.

Zippered, soft kennels work well in the passenger cabin because they're flexible. Make certain these kennels have lots of cushioning and that the zipper is secure. (It's really embarrassing if your puppy gets out and decides to run around the plane.)

Also, the kennel must be properly ventilated on at least two sides. Be certain to label the kennel with your name, address ,and telephone number. In addition, make sure your puppy is wearing a collar with an ID tag.

Once you call and reserve your puppy's space, you may pick up its ticket when you pick up yours. A ticket for your puppy in the passenger cabin will cost around $50 for a one-way trip

Some commuter airlines don't allow Pets in the passenger cabin, so you want to use jet service whenever you can. Most airlines insist that there must be enough room in the carrier for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down.

(They won't let your puppy on the plane unless it can do this.) Therefore, your puppy or dog must be relatively small in order to travel this way.

Checked Baggage:

Most dog owners prefer their dogs to fly in the passenger cabin, so they can watch over them. However, it's not always possible for your dog to fly this way.

Larger dogs can't fly in the passenger cabin. In addition, airlines only allow one dog in a carrier, so if you're flying to visit a friend with your two poodles, the airline won't allow your dogs in the passenger cabin. (A few airlines do allow two very young puppies to share a kennel.)

Another alternative is to put the puppy in a larger kennel and fly it as checked baggage. You can ask the airline to confirm a checked baggage space for your puppy when you make reservations.

This way, you're absolutely certain that space will be available. A few airlines have a policy that prohibits them from confirming space, but this doesn't mean they won't have a space for your puppy; it just means that they can't guarantee it.

Although it doesn't cost more to fly your puppy as checked baggage than it does to fly it in the passenger cabin, the kennel requirements are different.

For instance, usually, you need to put your puppy in a hard plastic kennel rather than in a soft one. If you buy a hard kennel that's airline approved, you shouldn't have any problems.

Also, buy the strongest kennel you can find, since your puppy will fly with the luggage instead of with the passengers.

A few airlines insist that you give them written confirmation as to when your puppy last ate and drank, which means you have to write it down for them.

Most require that you have food and water in the kennel. Some kennels have dishes built in that you can fill from the outside, which is really convenient.

You'll have to label your puppy's kennel with your name, address, and telephone number. Also, mark the kennel with a one-inch high 'live animal' sign.

Standard Cargo:

Most airlines have a choice of either standard air cargo or a premium service called counter-to-counter cargo.

If you ship your puppy as standard cargo, sometimes called freight, it must be at the cargo facility about two to four hours before the plane takes off. (Most cargo facilities are somewhere other than where you would normally check in for a flight, so you have to find the cargo facility first.)

And, when the puppy reaches its destination, it will be held an additional one to two hours. This lengthens the puppy's flight considerably and causes it more stress than necessary.

In addition, cargo doesn't have the same loading priority as baggage, which mean it's possible that weight limits for a flight could be reached before your puppy is put on board. If this happens, your puppy will have to wait for a later flight.

Whether or not your puppy can fly standard cargo also depends on the temperature. The temperature at both destinations must fall within an acceptable range or the airline won't put the puppy on the plane.

Counter-to-Counter:

A much better way for your puppy to travel is counter-to-counter cargo service. Unlike standard cargo, this type of service allows your puppy to be brought to the passenger terminal only 30 to 60 minutes prior to the flight's departure. And, after the flight, you can pick the puppy up as soon as the baggage is unloaded.

Health and Security:

Airlines won't let your puppy on a plane unless it's healthy. Within 10 days of the flight, you must take your puppy to the veterinarian and get a health certificate. In addition, the airlines will visually inspect your puppy's health before they put it on the plane.

Security differs between airlines, so it's best to keep your ticket and your puppy's ticket, health certificate, and rabies vaccination together, since some airlines will request this information more than once.

Most airlines will want to x-ray your puppy's kennel, so you'll have to take your puppy out of the kennel. Make sure your puppy is wearing its collar, leash and ID tag!

You and your puppy might have to walk through a metal detector together. Never let your puppy be run through an x-ray machine.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Traveling With Your Dog

2007-08-26T15:09:00.000-07:00

When traveling by car, keep these things in mind. Plan ahead. Make sure the hotels you're staying at allow pets (if they do, inquire about size limits, some hotels will only accept smaller-sized dogs and also limit the number of dogs you can bring).

Make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations. Always carry your dog's health certificate and proof of vaccinations.

Use a pet carrier or seat restraint. An unsecured dog may distract the driver or interfere with operation of the vehicle, hurting itself or other passengers. Choose a carrier that allows your dog to stand up and turn around comfortably, yet doesn't provide too much room for extra movement.

Make rest stops. On long trips, it's good to stop every few hours (or more frequently) to let your dog stretch or relieve himself. Be sure to keep your dog on a leash when taking him out of the car for walks.

Provide fresh water. On long trips or warm days, it's essential for your dog to have access to water.

Keep your car's interior comfortable. When traveling during hot days, don't leave your dog alone in a vehicle, even if the windows are rolled down.

Bring things familiar to your dog, such as your dog's food and favorite toy and blanket.

Traveling by Airplane:

Always check your chosen airline's policy on pet travel and find out what carrier sizes it allows. Also inquire about if they need a Health Certificate. Make an appointment with your veterinarian in advance to obtain a Health Certificate.

Your dog will most likely travel in the cargo hold of the plane, so it's best not to travel in extremely hot or cold weather. Include your name, address and telephone number on the crate in case he gets lost or misplaced in transit. You also should include the name, address, and telephone number of your destination. Note: Some airlines allow small pets to travel with their owners in the passenger cabin, ask your airline if they can make this accommodation for your dog.

Most veterinarians don't recommend tranquilizing pets before air travel, because tranquilized pets can have difficulty regulating their body temperature and blood pressure. In addition, sedated pets can lose their balance, which increases their potential for injury.

Make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations. Always carry your dog's health certificate and proof of vaccinations. Do not feed your pet just before traveling due to the potential for an upset stomach during the flight. Bring things familiar to your dog, such as your dog's favorite toy or blanket and place in the crate.

Never travel with an ill pet, check with your veterinarian before any car or air travel to determine if your dog is healthy enough to travel.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Taking Your Dog Into The Great Outdoors

2007-08-21T19:14:00.000-07:00

Braving the wild with your dog? Read this to make sure you've got all the pooch necessities. Is your dog properly conditioned? If your dog is accustomed to twenty-minute walks and you have a five-hour hike planned, your dog might not be ready for it. Training is the key. Start going on longer walks weeks before the hike, increasing the distance as your dog becomes conditioned.

Be sure your dog is getting a complete and balanced diet. A good diet goes a long way in helping your dog keep up his or her energy. To prevent an upset stomach, don't subject your dog to strenuous exercise directly after eating a full meal. Save mealtime for after the hike when your dog is rested and cooled down.

Avoid heat and humidity. On those hot and/or humid days, hike in the early morning or in the evening when it cools off. Dogs with dark or heavy coats tend to overheat quickly.

Be sure there's plenty of water. Here's how to calculate: Your dog needs 12 ounces of water before the hike, 12 ounces every half hour during the hike, and the same amount afterward.

Watch your dog's paws. Hiking in the woods can cause footpad injuries such as cuts and scrapes. Remember to bring along a first aid kit and attend to any problems immediately. Keep your dog's nails trimmed so they don't get caught in grass, which could cause serious injury.

Leash your dog. It's really the only way to maintain control at all times. This is especially important in the woods where you want to keep your dog away from other animals and dangerous plants like poison ivy.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Keeping Your Pet Safe In A Disaster(2)

2007-08-19T14:41:00.000-07:00

As a result, however, some family members later try to return to the house to rescue their pet. This jeopardizes the lives of the family as well as the search and rescue personnel whose duty is to rescue them. AHA firmly recommends that public safety officials ask families to evacuate with their pets so that they will not feel the need to return when the conditions are even more dangerous.

In the spring of 1996, the small Wisconsin town of Weyauwega was evacuated when a freight train derailed. Several propane tanker cars were close to erupting. All 1600 residents were told to evacuate for what what was presumed to be only a few hours. Most of the evacuees chose to leave their animals behind for this short duration. However, it was determined later in the day that the safest course of action would be to allow the propane fires to burn themselves out. This, it was announced to the evacuees, might take as long as six weeks.

The animal-owning residents insisted that something be done more quickly. Some risking both explosion and exposure to the sub-freezing Wisconsin night, took matters into their own hands and walked the five miles from the barricades to their homes to rescue their pets. The public safty officials recognized that it was safer to work with the owners rather than try to keep people from attempting to rescue their pets.

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By using National Guard tanks to safely bring AHA rescuers and the animal owners back to their houses, all of the dogs, cats, birds and fish were rescued. These and local safety officials in other communities affected by disasters have learned a valuable lesson: The best rescue of an animal is the one that never has to happen in the first place. If the animal is included in the evacuation, it is an animal that will not have to be rescued later.

Certainly, the responsibility for a companion animal's safety belongs to the family. If all families made sure that their animals were included in their household disaster plan, the AHA would have far fewer animals to rescue in emergencies. That suits AHA just fine, says Nicholas Gilman, director of animal programs for AHA. "We hope that the animal-owning public will consider the needs of their companion animals long before AHA is called in to perform a rescue"

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Keeping Your Pet Safe In A Disaster (1)

2007-08-15T19:56:00.000-07:00

Jack had found herself a perch on the second-floor window air-conditioning unit. Only a week before, that perch was twelve feet off the ground. Today, as Jack huddled miserably against the window pane, the floodwaters lapped against the side of the house only inches below her paws. Her human family had long-since evacuated her home, but she had been left to fend for herself. Exhausted, hungry and cold, she was among thousands of other animals left behind by their owners in the floods stemming from Hurricane Flood in September 1999.

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Every year the United States is host to dozens of disasters, large and small. Hurricanes and floods pose the biggest risk to our companion animals and yet, too often, people leave their non-human family members at home while the rest of the family evacuates to safety. Every year since 1916 the American Humane Association (AHA) has saved the lives of many animals like Jack. It's work that the Emergency Animal Relief staff of AHA does tirelessly and eagerly.

Yet, says AHA's manager of Emergency Animal Relief, Dick Green, "We shouldn't have to rescue so many pets from disasters in which owners had hours, or even days, to prepare. Preparation for a disaster should include companion animals." In the aftermath of Hurricane Flood, AHA sent rescue teams to work in three different states, in dozens of communities. Everywhere we went, in every flooded community, we found animals left behind, cats, dogs, birds, and hamsters. Animals that easily enough could have been taken with the family.

Part of the problem is that the American Red Cross shelters established for human evacuees do not accept pets, except for service animals for the handicapped. Because of this, AHA approached the Red Cross several times in the last six years to suggest that there may be ways to co-locate both families and their companion pets in special evacuation shelters. AHA provided a list of procedures which if employed, would allow the safe and responsible housing of both humans and companion animals. So far the American Red Cross has not changed their policy or entertained further discussion on the topic of protecting the families that include pets.

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However, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association, fully 58 percent of American households include a dog or cat. Another concern is that public safety officials (fire/rescue, police, and emergency management) sometimes tell the public to evacuate without thier animals. This is typically done in situations where they feel that to delay evacuation, even for the few minutes it may take to load the family pet into the car, is more time than is safe for the family.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Life Stages And How Life Stage Dog Foods Differ

2007-08-11T15:40:00.000-07:00

When shopping for dog food, it is common to buy by the brand. Beyond the brand of the food, you should take into consideration the life stage of your dog. Life stages refer to the various developmental stages of a pet's life. For dogs it means puppy, adult, senior and for some dogs, a lower calorie diet for inactive or overweight dogs. It's extremely important to insure that your pet is consuming a product that is appropriate to their life stage. Feeding puppy food to an adult dog can result in excess weight gain. The same outcome may occur by feeding an adult formula to a senior dog.

Dog Food Life Stage Definitions:

Puppy Food:

Puppy age range is 1-12 months for most breeds. Large and giant breeds (55 lbs. and up) are classified as puppies for 0-18 months. Regular puppy formulas (growth formulas) contain extra protein and fat to encourage proper muscle and skeletal development. Large-breed puppy foods are designed to optimize the growth rate, thereby reducing the risk of hip and joint diseases that can result from too rapid growth of large breeds.

Adult Food:

Adult foods contain moderate levels of protein, fat and carbohydrates for dogs ages 13 months and up. However, large and giant breeds are considered adult at a later stage, normally 13-18 months. Special high-energy foods (i.e. premium performance, high-energy, etc.) are designed for highly active adult dogs requiring increased calories.

Lite/Reduced Calorie Food:

Products labeled "lite" are subject to strict industry rules and therefore must contain no more than 1409 calories/lb. "Reduced calorie", "reduced fat", and "less active" labeled products are not subject to this definition and therefore may be higher in calorie content. If the objective is weight reduction, larger calorie reductions result in greater weight loss.

Senior Food:

Senior dog age normally starts at age 6-7 years for most breeds. These foods have reduced fat levels and increased fiber levels to help older, more sedentary dogs maintain a desirable weight level. These foods also have reduced salt and phosphorus levels.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Are Ticks Ticking Off Your Pets?

2007-08-05T13:51:00.000-07:00

The tick, a relative of the spider, is a common external parasite. Ticks carry a number of diseases including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. They can cause serious health problems for both you and your pets. Tick infestations can be controlled with available products using an integrated program focusing on your pet, your home and yard.

A Little About Ticks
Dangers to Pets
Dangers to Humans
Controlling Ticks Around You and Your Pets
Stopping the Tick Cycle

On the Pet

In the House

In the Yard

Prevention through Continued Maintenance:

Tick Removal
Don't Do These Things!
How To Avoid Ticks

A Little About Ticks:

Ticks, a relative to the spider, are common external parasites. The brown dog tick is most common to dogs. There are several tick varieties, but it is not necessary to identify them in order to control them. The same active ingredients kill them all. They can be found almost anywhere and in almost any climate, but are most commonly found in damp places, grassy or bushy areas, wooded areas, sandy beaches, and places where infested pets have been. Ticks are most active during the spring, summer and early fall, but can survive temperatures below freezing.

Dangers to Pets:

Dogs, cats and humans are commonly affected by ticks. Since dogs frequent the areas ticks live, they are the most affected. Many serious diseases can be transmitted through ticks: Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (Dog Tick), Lyme Disease (Deer Tick), Ehrlichiosis, Typhus, Tick Paralysis, and other disorders. There is a vaccine for Lyme disease, so you may want to ask your veterinarian if he or she recommends this for your pet.

Dangers to Humans:

Humans can suffer many of the same diseases animals contract from ticks. Your pets are not able to pass along the disease to you. Rather, you must be in direct contact with the tick in order to contract any disease.

Controlling Ticks Around You and Your Pets:

Ticks can be controlled with available products if you focus on eliminating ticks from your pets; making sure that you have killed any ticks that may be hiding in your home; and by treating your yard and NEARBY wooded areas. Also remember that many wild animals such as deer, field mice and even birds carry ticks. If you live in an area known for ticks, check your pets (particularly those that spend time outdoors) regularly and treat your yard and nearby woods frequently to control any new ticks.

To Stop the Tick Cycle:

Kill the ticks on the dog, in the house, and in the yard. Regular maintenance also helps to prevent their return.

On the Pet:

Ticks like dark, tight spots, such as the inside of the ears, between the toes and foot pads, the armpit area, and under the tail, so pay special attention to these areas.

In the House:

If you have ticks in your house, you will need to remove anything that may offer a hiding place, such as old boxes, newspapers, or stored firewood. Apply a product that gets under furniture and into cracks and crevices, paying special attention to baseboards, window and doorframes, paneling and fireplaces. Foggers can be used, as well, for an overall general treatment.

In the Yard:

Ticks are most commonly found in grassy or wooded areas, so cut back any tall grass around your house. They also like leaves and vegetation. Pay special attention to underbrush, doghouses and kennels, woodpiles and areas where your pet likes to rest. Since ticks crawl up vertical objects, treat not only the ground but up onto vertical surfaces three to four feet.

Prevention through Continued Maintenance:

Products, such as collars, sprays and powders, allow you to provide continuous tick control. Also, lessen the chances of infestation by treating your pet prior to entering known tick areas.

Tick Removal:

Since humans can get diseases from ticks, it is best not to remove the tick with your bare fingers. Use either tweezers or a tick removal instrument.

To safely remove a tick:

Try using an alcohol swab, which may irritate the tick and cause it to loosen its grip.

Grab the tick with the tweezers where the mouth enters the skin. Do not grab it by its body.

With a slow steady pull, remove the whole tick without twisting it as you pull.

Deposit the tick in alcohol to kill it.

Clean the area with a disinfectant and apply an antibiotic.

Wash your hands thoroughly.

Swelling and skin irritation may occur after the tick is removed. This is a reaction to the toxic saliva of the tick, not due to the head remaining in the wound (which rarely happens if you grasp the head of the tick during removal).

Don't Do These Things!

Do not try to remove a tick by burning it off. This is ineffective and may hurt your dog.

Do not use petroleum jelly. This does not cause the tick to back out, and may actually cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound.

Flushing a tick down the toilet will not kill it.

Do not squash the tick with your fingers. The contents of the tick can transmit disease.

How To Avoid Ticks:

Protect your pet with a prevention program. Use products designed specifically to repel ticks.

Avoid woody or grassy tick habitats.

Apply a repellent to your clothes and skin.

Tuck your clothes in to reduce the amount of skin exposed.

Do a tick check on your pet when returning from a place where ticks would be.

Do a tick check on yourself. Wearing light colors will help you see ticks attached to your clothes. Remove ticks promptly.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Foot And Nail Care: Clipping Your Dog's Nails

2007-07-29T19:12:00.000-07:00

Don't let the fear of hurting your dog keep you from taking good care of her feet and nails. Clipping her nails will be as easy as clipping your own nails once you learn how it's done.

All dogs need proper foot and nail care. Nails that are not kept short will grow too long and become irritating and painful to the dog. It can also cause the feet to splay, or spread, and nails can actually curl around and grow into a dog's pads.

Don't all dogs naturally wear down their nails?

Most dogs, especially those kept indoors, will need their nails clipped regularly. A dog that walks on hard surfaces or that is outside a lot may have their nails naturally worn down to an acceptable length. But the average dog spends most of its time indoors, or walks on surfaces too soft to wear the nails down, like grass or carpet.

What type of nail clippers is best for my dog?

For medium to large dogs, use either the guillotine type nail clippers, or large scissor type nail clippers. For small dogs and puppies, use the scissor-type clippers. If the puppy is a small-breed, the owner can continue to use the scissor type. For puppies that will grow to be medium- to large-breed dogs, switch to using the guillotine-type clippers.

How do I clip my dog's nails?

Hold your dog's foot and gently push down with your thumb at the base of each nail. This will cause the nail to extend slightly, making it easier for you to see the nail. Trim each nail at a 45-degree angle away from the dog so that the newly cut nail is flush with the floor when they walk. There is a blood vessel, called the quick, in each nail. Do not cut the nail so short that it cuts into the quick. It will bleed and could be painful to the dog. If this happens, apply a coagulant (a substance that causes blood to clot) to the nail to stop the bleeding.

How do I find the "quick" in my dog's nails?

The pinkish color of the quick is easy to see in dogs with light-colored nails. However, it is almost impossible to see the quick on dark dogs that have dark nails. Try to locate the quick from the underside of each nail before you begin cutting. Cut each nail back just a little at a time until you get close, but not right up to, the quick.

What is a dewclaw, and does it need to clipped like the other nails?
A dewclaw is a fifth claw on the inside of the leg (typically only the front legs) just slightly above the other claws. If a dog does have dewclaws, those should be trimmed just like the other nails.

Will it hurt my dog's nails if I put polish on them?

No. Use an epoxy enamel made for dogs, not a human nail polish. These pet polishes come in several colors, dry quickly, and will not chip off easily. Apply a coat of polish one foot at a time, keeping the toes separated. These nail polishes are designed to dry quickly, but an impatient dog could still smudge the polish onto its coat.

Do I Really Need To Brush My Dog's Teeth?

2007-07-23T19:25:00.000-07:00

As a responsible pet owner, you owe it to your pet to take her dental care seriously, both professionally and at home. If you start as early as possible in your dog's life getting her accustomed to having her mouth handled, then dental care should be as easy as feeding her.

Periodontal Disease:

The number one health problem. Do you know what the most common health problem is in dogs? It's periodontal disease. Eighty percent of domestic dogs three years and older are affected by infection of the gums. Yet it's one of the most overlooked problems by pet owners.

What are some possible signs of dental disease?

Bad breath

Discolored teeth

Red or swollen gums

Loss of teeth

Difficulty in chewing and eating

Weight loss

Broken or missing teeth

Nasal discharge

Blood in the saliva

Drooling

Tearing or swelling below one eye

How does a dog get periodontal disease?

Periodontal disease starts with plaque. This is the white film that accumulates on our teeth. If the plaque is not removed through regular teeth brushing, it will mineralize (harden) and turn into tartar. As the tartar builds, the plaque continues to accumulate and infect the gums. This infection can eventually enter the bloodstream and cause disease in the heart, lungs, liver and kidneys.

How can periodontal disease be prevented?

Unfortunately, periodontal disease cannot be reversed. It can, however, be slowed or stopped with proper dental care. There are several things you can do to prevent this disease from affecting your pet:

Brush your pet's teeth regularly.

Feed your pet a nutritionally balanced diet.

Provide your pet a dental chew toys and chew items.

Get regular dental exams by a veterinarian.

Brush your pet's teeth regularly.

Your pet's teeth should be brushed as often as possible, ideally every day. Try to get in the habit of brushing your pet's teeth after you brush your own. You can purchase toothbrushes made especially for pets, or you can use a soft child's toothbrush, a finger toothbrush, a gauze pad around a finger, or a cotton swab. Use toothpaste specially formulated for pets. These have ingredients that continue to work in the mouth even after brushing. Canine toothpaste has a special food flavoring to make it more appealing to your pet.

Stay away from human toothpaste, baking soda or salt. Many dogs don't like the foaming action these give, and they may upset their digestive systems. Try to reach the inside surfaces of the teeth, and the back upper molars. These teeth tend to quickly build up tartar. Feed a nutritionally balanced diet, preferably dry.
A hard, crunchy premium food will scrape against the teeth and help keep bacteria from growing.

Provide dental chew toys and chew items.

Not only are they fun for your dog, but he doesn't even realize how good they are for him. Supply your dog with plenty of teeth cleaning chew toys and bones, especially knobby toys, rope toys and floss toys. Rawhide is another chew item that rubs against the dog's teeth and removes harmful plaque.

Get regular dental exams by a veterinarian.

Have your pet's teeth professionally cleaned regularly. Frequency of cleanings depends on each pet's individual needs, so consult your veterinarian at least once a year.

How do I get my dog used to brushing?

Get your pet accustomed to having your fingers in his mouth. Squeeze a bit of toothpaste on your finger and place your finger between the cheek and gum. As your pet licks the paste, praise him calmly. Once he's comfortable with that, you can place the toothpaste on the toothbrush and do the same thing. Soon your pet will be comfortable with the process. Spend only a few seconds at first, then build up to spending a minute or so brushing the teeth.

Obinna Heche.. LOs Angeles-California

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Choosing The Right Caregiving Option When You're Away

2007-07-18T19:09:00.000-07:00

Whether you're a seasoned corporate traveler or a confirmed homebody, as a pet owner there'll likely come a day when you face an issue common to all. What to do with your pals when you leave home? Like many other things in life, there's no right" answer to this question. The option you choose will depend on what's best for you and your pet.

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In-home or Animal Inn:
Not surprisingly, choices for your pets boil down to leaving them home alone or placing them with someone else. Some pets think that kennels are a camp and you wouldn't want to take that experience away from them, says Kay Calzolari of Pet Sitters International (PSI). While others are happiest and less stressed at home surrounded by their familiar sights, smells and sounds.

And, while most professional pet sitters serve as a crime deterrent by opening and closing drapes, turning on and off lights or retrieving the mail and newspaper, this may not be a plus for you. "It really depends on your comfort level with having someone in your home," notes Ryan Dryden of the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (NAPPS). Conversely, not every pet thrives at a boarding kennel. "Some animals adapt better to a pet sitting environment," says Jim Krack of the American Boarding Kennels Association (ABKA). "That's why more and more kennels are offering both pet sitting and boarding services.

Analyze Your Pet:
How do you decide between outplacement and in-home services? First, take an objective look at your pet. Does your pet shred up your toilet paper, rummage in your cabinets or leave a puddle on the days you work late? Does he or she display territorial aggression toward even your closest friends? When alone for extended periods, does he or she fill your apartment with haunting cries? Pets displaying any of these or other disruptive behaviors may be best in the safe, secure setting a kennel provides. On the other hand, if your pet is nervous outside your home, refuses to eat when you're out or becomes despondent and lethargic if you leave him or her at a friend's or neighbor's home for short periods, then the comfort and familiarity of regular turf may be the answer.

The Acid Test:
But, what if you're uncertain or none of these scenarios seems to apply? Only a test drive will tell you for sure. Plan to select a pet sitter or kennel well in advance of your trip. For tips on the pet sitters, check out the NAPPS or PSI web sites. For kennels, see the ABKA. Then, set up a dry run. For an in-home trial, arrange an overnight stay at a friends house for yourself. To make the simulation real, pack up the bag you'll be using to travel and arrange to stay away as long as possible.

During your absence, have your pet sitter observe your companion's behavior closely and take written notes on everything from play activities to appearance of waste materials. Even if all appears normal to an observer, you may detect signs of stress. Use a similar scenario for a boarding kennel, except this time make your pal's preparations as realistic as your own. If you'll be using your kennel's pick-up service, be sure to include it in your experiment. Then, just as with a pet sitter, have your kennel keep a detailed record of your pet's actions.

What About the Guy Next Door?:
No matter which caregiving scenario seems best, avoid the pitfalls of enlisting the aid of a friend, neighbor or relative. Instead, stick with the professionals.
First and foremost it's a professional's job to focus on your pet and your wishes, points out Dryden. For acquaintances, your pet is only one of a myriad of concerns.

In the case of a pet sitter, this means adhering to your behavioral standards to ensure your pet doesn't develop unwelcome habits, such as jumping on people or lounging on your new couch. Perhaps more importantly, professional pet sitters have appropriate strategies to cover the unexpected.

For example, what happens if your acquaintance is called away on a family emergency or comes down with the flu. A professional sitter already has a reliable contingency plan in place for such cases. The same holds true for taking your pet to stay elsewhere. A boarding kennel is a safe, secure, sanitary and professionally-supervised environment," says Krack.

The Great Debate:
As you're investigating which option's right for you, one of the issues you'll run into is the argument over which location, in-home or kennel, presents the greatest health hazard. Kennel advocates say unattended pets left at home can get into household chemicals or harm themselves on other objects, such as the jagged edge of a broken ceramic houseplant pot. Pet sitting proponents counter that kenneled companions are exposed to illnesses and parasites carried by other animals.

Of course there's really no way to protect your pet from every possible catastrophe, just as there's no way to protect yourself from a freak accident. If you opt for boarding, ensure your pet gets the required immunizations and the kennel you select follows the sanitation practices recommended by the ABKA. If a pet sitter is your choice, scrutinize your home from your pet's perspective and remove or lock up anything that might become a lethal toy.

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Have a Great Trip:

By evaluating what's best for your pet and following the advice of professionals, you can expect your absence will be a happy, healthy experience for your loved ones. Remember that one size doesn't fit all, so take whatever time you need to review the options and pick what's right for your pets. Then pack your gear, hug your pals goodbye and enjoy your trip.

How To Remove Ticks

2007-07-14T16:05:00.000-07:00

Do not use any of the "mythical" methods of removing ticks such as petroleum jelly, cleaning fluid, burning matches or cigarettes. These may irritate the skin and kill the tick, making it difficult to remove intact. Ticks are difficult to remove because their mouth parts are barbed. They also secrete a glue that holds the mouth parts in place while feeding, guarding against easy dislocation.

Using tissue or tweezers, gently grasp the body of the tick and pull directly away from the point of attachment. Do not jerk or twist.

If the mouth parts break off in the skin, use a sterilized needle to remove as you would a splinter.

Wash the bite area with soap and water and apply an antiseptic such as alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.

Wash your hands thoroughly.

Mark the date of the tick bite on the calendar. Watch for symptoms of disease in the upcoming weeks.

Pet Emergency Information

2007-07-09T18:37:00.000-07:00

We know how important the well-being of your special pet is to you. Of course, you always make sure they are vaccinated and have had their check-ups, but sometimes the unexpected happens. It could be something right in your own house. What do you do? We have put together some tips to help your pet in case of an emergency.

Take a pet first aid class or buy a first aid care guide.

Always call ahead to let the vet know you are coming in with an emergency.

Transport injured pets in a large blanket, which can be used as a stretcher and keep them warm.

Pet Poisoning:

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Family pets risk all kinds of poisoning every day; things like insecticides, weed killers, antifreeze, acids, fertilizers, paints. The list is extensive.

Here's what you can do if your pet is poisoned:

Keep your pet warm and quiet.

Try to determine what the poison was, when it was ingested and the amount swallowed.

Immediately call your veterinarian or your nearest poison control center.

When you take your pet to the vet, bring the label or container of poison with you.

Keep poisonous materials properly stored and out of reach of pets.

Keep emergency numbers handy by the phone.

Heatstroke:

Heatstroke kills family pets every year because they are left in cars on warm days. Look for signs of rapid breathing, panting or collapse.

What you should do:

Remove your pet to a shaded or cool area.

Sponge or hose your pet down with cool water (do not use ice).

Encourage your pet to drink small amounts of water.

Contact your veterinarian for further instructions.

Cuts and Wounds:

Deep cuts and wounds are common in pets due to broken glass and sharp objects.

If your pet is bleeding:

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Apply firm, continuous pressure directly over the bleeding site using thick gauze pads or clean cloths to control bleeding.

If the area is painful, you may need to muzzle or restrain your pet to avoid bites.

Transport your pet immediately to the nearest emergency veterinarian hospital or your veterinarian's office.

Shock:

Shock is the result of an injury or disease to the body that produces inadequate blood circulation. Pets in shock show signs of weakness, grey gums, shallow breathing, a weak pulse and may collapse. Immediately:

Transport your pet to the nearest veterinary hospital or emergency clinic.

Wrap your pet in a blanket to keep him warm and comfortable.

First aid can be attempted while on route to the hospital.

Do not give your pet any water or food.

Keep the head slightly lower than the body and the tongue extended to keep the breathing path open.

How To Control Shedding In Dogs

2007-07-07T14:59:00.000-07:00

How To Control Shedding In Dogs

You can't stop shedding completely, but you can help to control it before it ends up all over your house. The key to controlling shedding is daily brushing and combing, which not only helps to remove dead hair, but keeps your dog's coat and skin in top condition.

Shedding is a very normal occurrence for your dog. Some dogs shed more than others. Shorthaired dogs such as Labradors and Doberman Pinschers shed year-round and should be groomed once or twice a week. Long-haired dogs don't shed any more than short-haired dogs but with hair that can be 10 times as long as a short hair's, the shedding piles up quickly.

Long hairs also require more grooming daily in order to keep their coats smooth and tangle free. If your dog is an outdoor pet, you may find that he sheds his winter coat in the spring, rather than shed all year round like indoor dogs. If you would like a dog that sheds less and requires less grooming, consider a Poodle, Bichon Frise or Old English Sheepdog.

Smooth Coats (Boxer)
Frequency: 1-2 times per week.
Start with a rubber brush to loosen the dead hair and surface dirt. Follow with a bristle brush to remove the dead hair. Use a conditioner to keep the hair soft.

Silky Coats (Terrier)
Frequency: 3-4 times per week.
Start with a slicker brush to remove tangles. Follow with a bristle brush to distribute the natural oils and give your pet's coat a healthy shine. If you need to trim your dog's hair, first use a comb to comb the hair straight down.

Long Coats (Sheepdogs)
Frequency: Daily.
Start with a slicker brush to remove tangles and mats. Follow with a pin brush to ensure that there are no large tangles left. And complete with a wide toothed comb to remove all small tangles.

Note: If your dog sheds to the point where bald patches begin to show through the fur, you should consult a veterinarian.

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How Do I Clean My Dog's Ears?

2007-07-04T14:42:00.000-07:00

Checking your dog's ears is part of a regular grooming routine. You should check your dog's ears on a weekly basis. You want to make sure there is no inflammation, nasty odor, or redness around the ear flaps. If you suspect inflammation, take your dog to the vet.

You can clean the excess dirt with a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil or alcohol. If you use a cotton swab, make sure you can always see the cotton end, and keep the swab pointed down, not towards the head. Also, be very careful not to push debris back into the ear canal.

If your dog scratches or shakes his head often, you should check for ear mites. These crablike creatures are difficult to see, but you should look for the debris they leave behind - a brownish black discharge that look like coffee grounds. Take your dog to the veterinarian to confirm. Your vet will then direct you on how to use the ear drops to rid your dog of these pests.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Dog Grooming Tools

2007-07-01T17:44:00.000-07:00

Dog Grooming Tools:
Brushing on a regular basis removes loose hair and keeps the skin clean. This reduces the chance of getting any skin diseases or parasites. Natural oils are more evenly distributed over the coat, which allow individual hairs to lie more smoothly and look shinier.For long haired and double-coated breeds, brushing will remove dead hair from the undercoat before it mats, and new hair growth will be stimulated. It also allows shampoo to penetrate down to the skin during bathing.

How often should I brush?

That depends on the type of coat your dog has. If it is long and thick, you'll spend more time and need to brush more often. If your dog's coat is short and smooth, a quick once-over a couple of times per week does the job. Dogs with long, flowing hair should be brushed every day. Dogs with coats somewhere in between these two benefit from a brushing 3 to 5 times a week.

What type of brush should I use on my dog?

The type of brush depends on your dog's coat. You may actually find that using a combination of two different brushes gives you the best results for your dog's coat.

Slicker Brush:

The slicker brush is a good brush to use on all breeds to remove dead hair. This curved-wire bristle brush is especially recommended for long or dense coats, and tangled and matted coats.

Pin Brush:

The pin brush works well on dogs with long, flowing hair such as the Lhasa Apso and the Yorkshire Terrier. The tips of the bristles are rounded and smooth to avoid skin abrasions.

Traditional Bristle Brush:

Those brushes that look most like human brushes are used to polish and add shine to the coat. These work best on dogs with short coats, and dogs with long, flowing coats, such as Afgan hounds or Maltese.

Hound Glove:

A hound glove has the bristles of a slicker brush embedded into a glove, or mitt. This serves the same purpose as a slicker brush, but some prefer slipping their hand into a glove rather than holding the handle of a brush.

Rubber Grooming Mitt:

These mitts are used on shorthaired dogs to polish and add shine to the coat once dead hairs are removed.

Undercoat Rake:

The best-kept secret of the grooming tools! Also known as a rake comb, it is ideal for removing dead undercoat hair and is best used on coarse-textured or large breed dogs, such as the Golden Retriever, Collie or Samoyed. You'll generally see one to three rows of teeth that are long and spaced far apart.

Combs:

Combs can be fine-toothed, medium-toothed, wide-toothed, or a combination of these. The fine-toothed comb is used for soft, thin or silky coats. The medium-toothed comb is used for average coat textures. The wide-toothed comb is used for thick, heavy coats.

Flea Combs:

Flea combs are very fine-toothed combs that are generally used for removing parasites. However, this comb is also very useful as an extra-fine-toothed facial comb that can remove residue and dirt caked in the facial hair around the eyes.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Tips On Dog Grooming

2007-06-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

Grooming your dog accomplishes much more than just making your pet's coat look nice and shiny. It will provide you with the opportunity to spend some "quality time" with your dog.
You will be able to check your dog closely for any problems while grooming. Move the hair aside and examine the skin closely for signs of fleas, ticks or skin irritations. Look for any unusual problems with the coat such as mats, tangles, dandruff, etc. Mats and tangles can be carefully removed while grooming.

Learn where your pet likes to be combed and brushed and where he or she doesn't. All dogs have sensitive areas that need to be groomed a little more gently and carefully than others. By paying special attention to these areas, you will help make your dog more comfortable while being groomed, and he or she will not resist future grooming sessions.

You will also become familiar with areas that your pet enjoys having groomed. This is helpful if you need to calm him or her during stressful times such as veterinary visits. Let your dog sniff the brush and comb before you begin grooming, and then talk to your pet in a reassuring tone while grooming. If the grooming procedure is made comfortable for your dog, he or she will begin to look forward to regular grooming sessions.

Health:

Regular grooming is essential to your dog's health and well-being. Regular combing and brushing will keep the coat clean and healthy. It will stimulate the skin, and allow the natural oils to circulate to the coat. It will also allow your to carefully check for potentially serious problems. Check areas for hair loss, inflammation, unusual tenderness, or lumps under the skin. Constant scratching in a particular area may also be an indication of a problem. Check with your veterinarian about any unusual problems found.

Combing:

Comb in the direction of hair growth, combing small sections at a time, until the coat is tangle free. For troublesome knots and tangles, use an anti-tangle comb. If the coat has a particularly stubborn knot or tangle, you may have to trim it off with scissors. A dematting comb, slicker, or rake can be used to remove mats. When using a combination comb, begin with the widely spaced teeth, and follow with the finer teeth.

Brushing:

Begin brushing at the head, working toward the tail and down the legs. Always brush in the direction of hair growth. Pay particular attention to the legs and flanks, and areas that easily mat. A pin brush can be used to fluff the coat by brushing against the directions of hair growth. Regular brushing will help distribute the natural oils from the skin, producing a healthy, shiny coat. Brushing several times a week is recommended for most dogs.

Puppies:

Like children, puppies have short attention spans. They will require some special attention. Select a time when the puppy is less energetic. Begin with short grooming sessions, five minutes or so. Constantly talk to your puppy in a gentle, reassuring tone while grooming to make him feel comfortable. Be sure to check his or her ears, paws, teeth, and underside during the grooming procedure. This will, in time, make your pet accustomed to being handled and examined. Eventually, your pet will be quite comfortable being groomed, and will look forward to these sessions with you.

Frequency:

It is important to establish and adhere to a regular schedule of grooming sessions. Schedule these at a convenient time for both you and your dog. A good time to do this is after the dog has been walked, while he or she is relieved and calm. Select a time when you will not be interrupted and have ample time to do a proper grooming longhaired dogs should be groomed daily, while shorthaired breeds may require grooming only twice a week. You will soon see what frequency your dog requires.

Nail Trimming:

Regular nail trimming is important to your dog's health and well-being. Never use ordinary scissors to trim your dog's nails. Use trimmers that are specially designed for dogs. Hold the dog's paw firmly, and cut off the tip of the nail with a single stroke. Be very careful to stop short of the quick, the blood vessel inside the nail. Cutting the nails right after bathing will make the quick more visible; applying baby oil will serve the same purpose. Follow up by filing your dog's nails with a nail file.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Separation Anxiety In Dogs

2007-06-25T20:23:00.000-07:00

Dog owners, when they get together, will tell stories of their amazing, brilliant, astonishing and misbehaving dogs. How many times have you heard about the pet who, displeased by its owners’ absence, left a “present” of the most unpleasant kind?. The truth is – he didn’t do it out of spite. Dogs aren’t people. People are the only animals that have an idea of “spite, revenge, or getting even. That’s not to say that dogs don’t have emotions – any dog owner knows better. But most will agree that dogs aren’t planners – they live completely in the moment - a skill humans can only attempt.

The only time to correct a dog for improper behavior is when you catch the dog in the act. Revisiting the scene of the crime doesn’t help. The dog doesn’t remember committing the crime. Yelling at the dog when you find the mess teaches the dog that finding a mess is bad. Therefore, in dog logic, it will learn to hide the mess, not refrain from creating it. If you’ve been tempted to accuse your dog of spiteful behavior because it does leave messes when you’re gone, it’s time to rethink what’s going on. Your dog isn’t telling you that it’s angry you left – it’s telling you it’s anxious and unsure when you’re not there.

It’s been said many times that dogs are pack animals. If you are the leader of the pack as you should be, then your dog is, for its entire life, a juvenile member of the group. Your dog may be a victim of separation anxiety; it doesn’t know what to do when its leader isn’t there to tell him. Now that we understand, somewhat, how a dog thinks, we can use that to create the behavior we want. Crate training your dog is a good way to alleviate many sources of anxiety – both yours and your dog’s. A crate, or cage, is civilization’s answer to a cave or den. Your dog can feel safe and secure in its den. A crate should be big enough to allow the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. That’s it.

Don’t project your claustrophobia onto your dog. It likes feeling safe, secure and enclosed. It likes not being responsible for checking out every noise. It’s happy when it has no decisions to make. Never let a dog make a decision – it will choose wrong. There are people who resist the idea of a crate. They think they are being kind to the dog. And there are some dogs who do not need their crates past puppy hood. But if your dog is prone to separation anxiety, you’ll both be better off with a crate. If you’ve never used a crate, or put it away as your dog matured, introduce it gradually. Leave it out, door open. Feed the dog in the crate.

Throw toys into the crate for it to fetch. Never, ever use the crate as punishment, nor as a substitute for a trip outside to eliminate. Dogs shouldn’t be left alone more than six to eight hours. If your schedule requires an animal to be left alone 10 or 12 hours a day – get a dogwalker, or settle for a cat. When you begin crate training, only leave the dog in the crate for a few minutes. Have a special treat or toy that the dog gets only in his crate. Many people use a hollow rubber toy with a bit of peanut butter or soft cheese spread inside. Happily tell your dog it’s time to kennel, (the word you choose doesn’t matter, just be consistent) and put the toy in the crate.

If the dog doesn’t come go get it. Never tell your dog to come to you for something it doesn’t enjoy. Place it in the crate, close the latch and walk away. Just a few minutes the first time. If the dog whines or cries, ignore it. When it’s quiet, let the dog out and tell her she’s wonderful. Build up the time your dog is left in the crate gradually. Conventional wisdom says that the first 15 minutes are the best indicator. If the dog settles within that time he’ll be fine. And you’ll both be happy. Fido has no decisions to make and you’ll have no messes to clean.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Things You Should Know About Your Dog

2007-06-22T00:22:00.000-07:00

You’ve probably had a day or two when you felt like your dog just wasn’t paying any attention to you at all, right? You talked, you yelled, you shouted, maybe you jumped up and down and waved your arms, but she just wasn’t interested in anything you had to say to her in any tone of voice. You’re not alone.

1. Your dog isn’t human.

Unless you believe in pet psychics, there’s really no way for you to read your pooch’s mind and figure out exactly what she’s thinking. The good news is that, like many dog owners, the problems you’re having can probably be traced to one simple thing: you’re trying to communicate with your dog from a human standpoint, and your dog isn’t a human. Sure, you know that, but lots of humans try to relate with their dogs in the ways that they think are rational as humans. The problem is that dogs are driven in every act and every moment by very strong instincts. Deciphering those instincts and leveraging them to build a productive relationship is like finding the keys to the city.

2. Your dog doesn't speak English.

Take the word “no,” for example. Does your dog speak English? Not understand English. Does she speak it?
What’s meaningful to her is your tone of voice, not the word itself. Now let’s think about that – we’re
taking up excess time trying to teach our dog a word she’ll never speak and that probably doesn’t mean
much to her anyway. Sure, it’s meaningful to us, but that’s only one side of the equation. What about
something that’s meaningful to both human and dog?

3. You know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means.

If you think that mutually meaningful language doesn’t exist, you’re not thinking creatively enough. What does it say to you when a dog growls at you? Anything from get away from my
food to “back off, dude,” right? Yet in every case, a dog’s growl typically means that she is not happy with whatever you’ve done. And you’ve seen dogs react to other dogs’ growls, right? So you know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means. Where’s the disconnect? Growl at your dog!

No, seriously. The next time your pooch starts stepping outside her bounds or doing something you don’t like, growl at her. A nice, strong, guttural growl that would put the alpha wolf in a pack to shame. While you’re growling, look directly into her eyes. You’re almost guaranteed that she’ll back off.

4. Instincts save time and communicate effectively.

See that? You worked with her instinct and the information hardwired into her brain, and the result was instantaneous. Why spend tons of time trying to work against that instinct and end up frustrated, angry, and still miscommunications? This approach works in everything from basic discipline to full-on obedience training. You just need to figure out how to apply it in each of those situations.

I’d like to help you learn to apply it, and that’s why I created the multimedia presentation Instinct vs. Man. It addresses day-to-day life with your dog as well as specific topics like playtime, training, and territory. Beyond that, you’ll get some great insight into why your dog thinks the way she does and how it affects her actions and reactions. You’ll understand why those months of training stopped working after a few weeks and how to get her back into the routine and acting like the fun, upbeat dog you love.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Understanding Your Pet's Chewing Issues

2007-06-18T00:42:00.000-07:00

If you are beginning to feel like an endangered species surrounded by the chewed up remnants of your previous existence, fear not. First of all you are not alone. There are dog owners like you suffering the same fate and having the same problems getting their otherwise delightful pet to cease and desist from devouring hearth at home. Not only that, but people, experienced dog owner type people, have spent a great deal of time and energy on solving the problem.

Your first step in the direction of rehabilitation is the same as it is with any such process. You need to establish the exact nature of the problem. If your pet is a newly acquired puppy then rampant chewing goes with the territory. It is a natural response to teething. If your pet is past puppy-hood and showing no sign of quitting or, if your mature pet inexplicably begins chewing away at stuff, this is a sign of a more serious problem that needs attention.

Pets of all kinds can be divided into aggressive chewers and non-aggressive chewers. Aggressive chewers annihilate what they chew and sometimes swallow the pieces - often in one sitting. Non-aggressive chewers gnaw, play and mouth toys without actually breaking them. Many theories attempt to pinpoint certain dog breeds as most likely to chew aggressively but, the fact is, it's more personality related than it is breed related.

If your dearly beloved pet is still a puppy you will need to work out which category of chewer he or she is as this is an important fact to take into consideration when shopping from the broad range of dog toys available. If your dog is an aggressive chewer you will need to buy dog toys that are chewy and rubbery as well as super strong and durable.
Because aggressive chewers are inclined to bite and then swallow toys that are brittle, they must be literally unbreakable. Some manufacturers actually sell toys with an impressive 100% product replacement if the animal manages to destroy it. Aggressive chewers need their own type of toy made of tough rubber and rawhide. They need to be kept well clear of toys that lesser chewers would be safe with.

Black Kongs are ideal for these enthusiastic chewers, so are toys like the jumbo retriever rolls otherwise known as 'chronic chew toys'. These are wound out of several feet of rawhide compacted into one giant roll. Even the most vociferous of chewing pets can do no better than wear away at the exterior leaving the tightly wound core still intact. Pressed rawhide bone-shaped toys are also good options for the aggressive chewer who must be protected from his or her own capacity to reduce an innocent toy to sharp, dangerous shards that may injure the pet's esophagus when swallowed.

If your mature pet is chewing and she is past teething and puppy-hood then there is a possibility that the chewing may be the symptom of a displaced anxiety. Here's where you will need to play dog psychologist and spend time with your pet to discern what is troubling him or her. Are you spending enough time with your pet? Does he get enough attention? Exercise? Has there been a recent disturbance in the household routine that the pet may be responding to?

Your pet is a barometer for any stress or disruption in the environment. Taking up chewing becomes a comforting action for the disturbed dog. You will need to spend more supervised time with your pet reeducating him or her on the rewarding consequences of desirable behavior. Pets are very much like children in this way. They will do anything to get attention even if it means demolishing the surrounding environment. Don't be slow to enlist the aid of an expert when tackling chronic chewing problems. A fresh and educated viewpoint may save everyone a great deal of frustration.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso