Questions About Dog Nutrition (3)

Is there a correct amount of vitamins and minerals for my dog?

What happens if my dog gets too much vitamins or minerals? Both vitamin and minerals have certain levels that are required for optimal health and either too much, or too little, generally can lead to health problems. For some nutrients the range where optimal health can be maintained is quite wide and the safety factor is quite high. Examples include Vitamin E, manganese and the B-vitamins. In contrast other nutrients have a relatively narrow range and careful attention must be paid to these nutrient to ensure the pet gets enough for proper health, but not so much that signs of nutrient excess develop. Examples here include zinc, selenium and copper.

Is dry food better than canned food?

Dogs can thrive on any diet, dry, canned or semi-moist as long as it is complete and balanced. Dry diets are generally less expensive to feed than canned diets and in addition, the crunchy texture of dry diets will help keep your pets' teeth clean. However even pets fed dry diets still need periodic cleaning and can benefit from the many treats and toys, which help clean teeth.

My dog really likes canned foods.

Will he be harmed if I only feed him canned food?
Your dog will do fine on only canned food as long as it is complete and balanced. If you feed your dog only canned food you should probably make sure you buy extra rawhides or teeth cleaning chew toys as well as take your pet to get it's teeth brushed regularly.

My veterinarian recommended feeding my dog a premium food. Why is that food better?

Premium foods typically contain higher quality ingredients than standard foods. Because higher quality ingredients are used (more real meat) the foods are more nutrient-dense, which means they contain higher percentages of protein and fat so your pet eats less to obtain the same nutrition. In addition, premium foods tend to contain natural additives (natural preservatives like Vitamin E) and avoid the use of artificial colors and flavors. Many perceive premium foods to be healthier due to the use of natural additives. Premium foods also feature high quality carbohydrate sources like rice, one of the most digestible grains.

Due to the nutrient density and quality of ingredients, the average premium food is more digestible than the average standard food. This results in less backyard clean up for you. Since the ingredients are of higher quality, the cost of premium foods tends to be higher on a per pound basis. However the fact that they are of higher nutrient density and digestibility means the amount of food fed is less, so while overall feeding costs are higher it's not as much as you may think.

Some people leave food out all day long for their dog. Is that good? Won't your dog eat too much?

Dry pet food can be left out all day as long as your dog does not overeat and gain excessive weight. Even when given food all day, most dogs will generally only eat once or twice a day. However, if your pet gains too much weight, it's a good idea to feed your dog using discrete meals once or twice a day.

I am afraid to change my dog's food? Will he get sick?

Once your dog adjusts to a particular food, the dog's system, including the bacteria that live in the gastrointestinal, establish a careful balance. Because different foods contain different ingredients and nutrients, too quick a change can upset his system. For this reason a gradual change is recommended. Mix the old food with the new food as shown below and after ten days your pet will be eating his new diet. Don't be afraid to change ,simply do it slowly.

New Food Old Food
Days 1-3 25% 75%
Days 4-6 50% 50%
Days 7-9 75% 25%
Day 10 100%


My dog won't eat his food anymore? Why?

There are lots of reasons a dog might not eat his food and many dogs eat only sporadically, so your dog not eating for one day is usually not cause for concern. If your dog does not eat two days in a row it's generally a good idea to take him to your veterinarian and make sure he is okay. Dogs like consistency, so sometimes feeding him in a new place, at a different time or in a new bowl may cause him to not eat. Occasionally a food may not be stored properly or might be too old and the fats have started to go rancid, which can lead to feed refusal. Sometimes when the weather is too hot your dog might not want to eat. Lastly, think if your pet may have had too many treats or may have gotten into the pantry or garbage and so may already have eaten his daily meal.

Are there things I shouldn't feed my dog?

Yes. Leading the list is chocolate. Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine, which is toxic. Never feed chocolate or food containing it to your pet. Also, never feed an onion to your pet as large amounts can destroy your pets red blood cells causing anemia. While many people give their dogs raw meat, fish or poultry products these meats contain bacteria or possibly parasites, which are killed in the cooking process. For this reason raw meats are also not recommended. Softer bones such as those from pork or poultry should not be fed as they can splinter and puncture the intestines. Lastly, some people add fat to a dogs diet for a shiny coat. Sudden introduction of large amounts of fats can cause pancreatitis, so this should be avoided. One would be better off to switch to a high quality diet.

Is it okay to give my dog treats? He really likes them.

There are a large number of high quality treats available for your dog. The first thing to remember when using treats is the 10% rule. Never let treats comprise more than 10% of your dogs diet. Most commercial pet foods contain enough nutrients that feeding up to 10% treats won't upset an otherwise balanced diet. Second, just like changing diets too fast can upset a pet digestive system, so can a large amount of treats all at once. Lastly, remember that treats contain calories so make sure to cut back on your pet's regular food if you feed treats every day.

Are some treats better for dogs than others?

Generally speaking, treats can be divided into two categories, dry and semi-moist. Semi-moist treats contain 20-30% water, real meat or chicken and are highly palatable, making them valuable training treats. Dry treats and biscuits are usually not as palatable as semi-moist treats, but are less expensive and often can be used to help clean teeth.

How long will dog food keep? How can I tell if the food is still good?

Most pet food has a relatively long shelf life and most manufacturers are code dating their products in a manner that is consumer friendly. Usually this results in a statement on the package that says "Use before xxxx", where "xxxx" represents the last date the product should be used. As a rule of thumb, dry food is generally good up to one year from date of manufacture, while can foods are good for two years.

After that, certain components of the diet start to break down resulting in a product that smells bad, is unpalatable to your dog and which is not nutritious. While a can food is good for two years when unopened, once it's opened it should not be allowed to sit out for more than a couple hours because bacteria will quickly grow on moist pet food. Dry food can be left out all day as long as it stays dry and is protected from crawling insects.
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Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Licking: affectionate, disconcerting or just plain disgusting?

For us humans, it can be a bit difficult to identify with the doggie habit of licking one another in greeting. We don’t do it, after all, and though our tongues come in handy for things like ice cream eating and sucking that last dollop of peanut butter off the knife, we certainly wouldn’t welcome a visitor into our home by giving them a long, lingering lick on the cheek unless you were brought up to embrace certain social mores currently unheard of in Western society.

Dogs use their tongues to explore the world. A dog’s tongue is as important and useful to him as our eyes and hands are to us. It’s a multi-purpose utility tool, used to taste things, explore the presence of new people and animals, express submissiveness, and to let you know that he values your companionship and friendship.

Licking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, and most of the time, the experience isn’t something to worry about: the odd lick from a warm, moist tongue on your hand or ankle is, at worst, tolerable and, I must admit, I actually find it pretty adorable when my dog licks me but then again, he’s trained not to overdo it, so I don’t have to worry about the smothering capacities that a 100-pound male Rottweiler’s tongue possesses.

Some dogs just take things too far though, and this is where problems can set in. It’s not pleasant to be persecuted in your own home by a far reaching, agile, mobile, and slobbery tongue. Some won’t let you get a moment’s rest, but will pursue you from bedroom to hallway to lounge to kitchen, making sporadic dive-bombings of affection on your toes, ankles, calves anywhere that flesh is exposed and available. And for a tall dog, the available terrain is much more varied, and thus, enticing – ever had a long, wet dog’s tongue lathering your bellybutton as you stretch up to those elusive top shelves? When unexpected, the resultant shock is more than a trifle unbalancing!

Plenty of dogs won’t restrict themselves to your skin alone, either, and owners of these dogs will attest to the always-visible consistency of dog saliva on clothing: whether your outfit is black, white, or any of the myriads of shades in between, there’s nothing like a viscous patch of dog slobber on a freshly-laundered hemline to advertise your ownership status and your dog’s personal level of demonstrativeness to the world at large. And once it’s dried, it’s there ’till the next laundry run. The physical evidence of a dog’s friendship is like egg white. It’s there, it’s dried on, and it’s not coming off until a combination of suds, hot water and vigorous effort is applied.

And all this because your dog wants to say, I love you.

But there’s often a bit more to it than just plain affection. As with all animal behavior, the logic behind licking is usually more complex and subtle than you might think, and the same gesture can have multiple meanings dependent on circumstance, your dog’s state of mind, and the other behaviors being exhibited at the same time. So, although we can postulate until the cows come home or until your dog stops licking whichever comes first. as to why your dog’s licking you, such generalizations aren’t always 100% accurate: it’s partly up to you to determine the reasoning behind the actions. And, since you know your dog better than anyone else, you’re the ideal candidate for the job.

If your dog is licking you because he’s feeling affectionate and wants to let you know, it’ll be pretty easy to figure out whether this is the case or not. His body language will be relaxed, and although the circumstances will be variable, the surrounding mood will generally be stress-free and happy: for example, when he licks you on the shoulder or ear from his vantage-point in the backseat as you’re driving him to the park, or lathers your hands and wrists with goodwill and devotion when you return home from a hard day at the office. Puppy love is by far the most common cause of licking: it isn’t anything to worry about, and it’s simple to cure him of the habit if the behavior is a problem for you. We’ll get to that further down the page.

Another not infrequent reason for repetitive, owner targeted licking is that your dog’s feeling anxious and stressed. If there are things happening in your dog’s life to cause him unhappiness or tension, he’ll often show it through obsessive compulsive behaviors, and licking is a pretty common manifestation of these. Some dogs will lick themselves, others will lick you, it’s really a case of individual preference.

It shouldn’t be too hard for you to pinpoint the cause of your dog’s less than relaxed mindset. Is he getting enough attention and mental stimulation, or is he cooped up inside for long hours each day by himself? Does he get enough exercise and outdoors time for sniffing, exploration, and general exuberant tomfoolery? Do you pay him lots of attention when you’re at home, or tend to greet him hurriedly before rushing off to your next commitment?

These are all things that you’ll need to consider, before adapting your lifestyle to address the issue accordingly. Depending on the circumstances surrounding the licking, and the overall quality of your dog’s life, you may need to make some general adjustments of your own to ensure that, when the licking does stop, it’s because you’ve treated the cause, not the symptoms – otherwise, you’re just trying to take away a valuable outlet for his negative emotions, which is unrealistic (and unfair on your friend, too).

Perhaps you need to come home more often during the day. Perhaps you need to get up half an hour earlier in the morning to give him a more substantial pre-work walk (it varies from dog to dog, but as a general rule of thumb, most dogs function best and are at their most relaxed with an hour and a half’s exercise each day). Or maybe you just need to spend more time with him in the evenings, playing, grooming, training, and just hanging out together.

Make sure you’re paying attention to his demeanor (does he seem content?) and his activity levels before you try to get rid of the licking behavior as a stand-alone problem: even though he can’t talk, he can still use his tongue to try and tell you something, and this might be what’s happening here. Having said that though, most of the time excessive licking is simply due to excessive exuberance in your dog. He’s happy, he loves you, and he has to let you know right now.

When you want to get the point across that his licking’s getting a bit too much for you, a simple change in your body language will convey your message loud and clear. All you need to do is withdraw the outward display of your affection for him to understand that, actually, you don’t like it when he covers your skin in a composite of saliva, dog-food particulate matter, scraps of debris from his fur, and general oral-cavity detritus.

In plain English, this means that you just have to turn yourself away from him: when he starts to lick, get up and move away instantly. Make sure your face and eyes are dramatically averted from him: face in the complete opposite direction. Preface this with a revolted-sounding “No!” if you like (I say “No lick!” but you can use whatever comes naturally. Just keep the phrase short and easily-identifiable so your dog quickly learns to recognize it).

At this point, he’ll probably get up and follow you. Wait for him to do so: the licking should start again soon. When it does, repeat the process. Withdraw all signs of affection from him again: turn away, get up and leave, and don’t pay him any attention or talk to him (apart from another “No!” in adisgusted. I can’t believe you haven’t got the message yet tone of voice.

It’s likely that your dog will be persistent. He’s not to be easily deterred; you’re the undisputed centerpiece of his life, after all, and he needs to let you know this whenever the opportunity should present itself. You just need to outmatch him in persistency. Be consistent with your actions, and the message will sink in. Don’t feel that you have to shout or react negatively,the simple withdrawal of your love or the appearance of this, anyway is quite enough.

A word of warning: some people really like it when dogs lick them, even if the dog concerned is not their own. If visitors to your house (or admiring passersby on the street) greet your dog and allow him to lick them, you’ll need to intervene or else they’ll undo all your good work. It’s best if you can explain ahead of time that you’re training him not to lick, and then explain the appropriate response for them to take if he should start to lick them. This way, you can be sure that your dog’s not going to be corrupted into unwanted behaviors again and that he’ll learn to express his affection in other, more desirable ways. Read more on licking and other problematic dog behaviors.


Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Recognizing, preventing and handling dog aggression

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly but there’s just no getting around it. Dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily. It’s hard to counteract the power of instinct.

But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different aggression types.

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

Aggression towards strangers

Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details. Well not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards strangers.

What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK, he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy and safe around strangers, he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do, it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands. Sit, stay and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills. There’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him. Start off slow and build up his tolerance gradually.

Aggression towards family members

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family.

He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.

What’s resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting. If your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior. Only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in time out, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog trainer.

Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say, this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively. Train regularly. keep obedience sessions short and productive. Not more than fifteen minutes, maybe two or three of these per day.

Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age aren’t comfortable with too much full body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling induced aggression is a bad grooming experience. Nail clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I retrain him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word, yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled, it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats and treats.

Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership.

To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look. You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link: Sitstayfetch

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- CaliforniaTo find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Questions About Dog Nutrition ( 2)

Do all dog foods include all the vitamins and minerals that my dog needs? Any pet food which is labeled as complete and balanced as regulated by AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) must, by definition, contain all the vitamins and minerals required by the pet for good health. Check the label to make sure the food you are using meets these standards. These nutrients are carefully balanced to provide just the right amount of nutrition for your pet.

Should I give my dog vitamin and mineral supplements?. For most dogs fed a complete and balanced commercial diet, vitamin and mineral supplements are unnecessary and in fact could be harmful. In fact dogs fed commercial diets are more likely to suffer from diseases of nutritional excesses than deficiencies due to the indulgent owner who adds vitamin or mineral supplements to their dogs' diet. Since most commercial diets contain a careful balance of nutrients, additional supplements of one or two nutrients can upset this balance. In some cases such as stress, illness or a particular medical condition, supplements may be beneficial when given under the direction of your veterinarian.

How much should I feed my dog? An excellent place to start is to look for feeding guidelines on the package. Remember that these are guidelines only and that your pet's age, activity level, environmental temperatures all have an effect on how much your pet needs. It is best to weigh your pet regularly and increase the amount if your pet appears to be losing weigh and decrease the amount if your pet appears to be gaining weight. Many pet stores and most veterinarian offices have scales you can use to weight your pet.

How often should I feed my dog? Young, growing dogs should be fed two or three times per day; feed newly weaned puppies three times a day and older growing puppies two times a day. Adult dogs can be fed once or twice a day depending upon owner preference. Adult dogs that are overweight and are being fed to lose weight should be fed twice a day to help minimize the risk of begging.

I have been told that feeding dogs table scraps is not good for them. Why not? Isn't human food okay for my pet? While an occasional piece of popcorn certainly won't hurt your dog, it is generally not recommended that you feed your dog table scraps for the following reasons: First, too many table scraps can add nutrients which would upset the balance of the commercial dog food you are using. Second, your dog will assume he should always have human food along with his regular dog food. Lastly, feeding table scraps encourages a dog to beg for food.


Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Questions About Dog Nutrition (1)

Why does my dog need to have a nutritionally balanced diet?

How important are proteins to my dogs diet?

How important are carbohydrates to my dogs diet?

How important are fats to my dogs' diet?

Do all dog foods include all the vitamins and minerals that my dog needs?

Should I give my dog vitamin and mineral supplements?

How much should I feed my dog?

How often should I feed my dog?

Is feeding dogs table scraps acceptable?

Is there a correct amount of vitamins and minerals for my dog?

Is dry food better than canned food?

Is it okay to only feed my dog canned food?

My veterinarian recommended feeding my dog a premium food. Why is premium food better?

What are life stages and how do dog foods for various life stages differ?

Some people leave food out all day long for their dog. Is that okay?

I am afraid to change my dog's food. Will he get sick?

My dog won't eat his food anymore. Why?

Are there things I shouldn't feed my dog?

Is it okay to give my dog treats?

Are some dog treats better than others?

How long will dog food keep?


Why does my dog need to have a nutritionally balanced diet? Dogs require a minimum of 39 nutrients, all in the correct proportion, to maintain their health. These nutrients include amino acids, fats, vitamins and minerals. The nutrients must be in a form that can be used by dogs. The food containing these nutrients must also be palatable so dogs can eat the food containing these nutrients. Lastly don't forget the most important nutrient, water. Dogs should always have access to clean water.

How important are proteins to my dogs diet? Are some proteins better than others?
Proteins are made up of amino acids and these amino acids are the building blocks the dog uses to make muscles, hair, skin and enzymes. Since each protein has a unique mix of these amino acids, proteins differ widely in their value to the dog. Generally, egg protein is regarded as the best, with animal proteins generally being higher quality than plant proteins. Many foods blend just the right mix of animal and plant proteins to provide the optimal mix of amino acids.

How important are carbohydrates to my dogs diet? Are some carbohydrates better than others? The carbohydrates found in pet foods usually come from plant sources like corn, rice, wheat, sorghum, barley and oats. While not absolutely necessary, carbohydrates are usually found in most pet foods because they are an excellent source of energy. Cooked carbohydrates from the grains listed above have all been shown to be readily available to dogs. A recent research report shows the more commonly used grains (rice, corn, wheat and barley) to be highly digestible while sorghum was less digestible.

Another class of carbohydrates provides bulk to the food and small amounts are generally regarded as being beneficial in helping promote the proper digestion and movement of food in the animal. These carbohydrates are referred to as fiber and common sources include beet pulp, rice bran, wheat middlings, corn bran and cellulose. Since these fiber sources are not well digested, they are commonly found in lite dog foods to decrease the calories in the food.

How important are fats to my dogs diet? Are some fats better than others?
Fats have three important roles in a pet's diet. First, they provide energy and there is more than twice the amount of energy in an ounce of fat than an ounce of protein or carbohydrate. Second, they help in making the food more palatable, as long as the fat is of high quality and is properly protected from spoilage. Finally, fats provide essential fatty acids to your pet, which they need for a healthy skin and shiny coat. Some researchers believe the right balance of fatty acids is as important as the actual levels of fatty acids.




Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

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Bathing, Brushing & Nail Trimming Your Dog

Brushing

Regular brushing removes dead hair from the coat before it mats, stimulates the skin and helps distribute the natural oils, producing a healthy, shiny coat. Begin brushing at the head, working toward the tail and down the legs. Always brush in the direction of hair growth. Pay particular attention to the legs and flanks, and areas that easily mat. The final step in brushing is to go through the coat using a fine/medium toothed comb, checking for any mats that may still be in the coat.

If your new friend is a longer-haired breed, you'll have to brush his undercoat to keep it from building up. Most long-haired breeds have an undercoat, which is the softer fur inside his coat. If the undercoat builds up, it can prevent him from properly regulating his body temperature. Brushing of both long and short-haired breeds also helps prevent excessive shedding which goes a long way in keeping your home (not to mention your wardrobe) free of dog hair.

Bathing

In addition to keeping your dog smelling fresh, a good bath also keeps his skin clean. Dirty skin can be oily, causing your pet to scratch and lick himself, resulting in sore spots and hairless patches. A good shampoo and proper conditioning will keep his skin healthy and make his coat easier to brush. Speaking of brushing, be sure to brush your dog's coat before every bath, to loosen any matted hair. Mats will only tighten when wet, so it's important to get rid of them before the bath. Also, a dog's skin has a different pH balance than ours, so the two of you shouldn't share shampoo. You'll find a variety of shampoos and conditioners made just for dogs.

Nail Trimming

Regular nail trimming is important to your dog's health and well-being. Never use ordinary scissors to trim your dog's nails. Use trimmers that are specially designed for dogs. Hold the dog's paw firmly, and cut off the tip of the nail with a single stroke. Be very careful to stop short of the quick, the blood vessel inside the nail. Cutting the nails right after bathing will make the quick softer; applying baby oil will serve the same purpose. Follow up by filing your dog's nails with a nail file for a smooth, snag-free finish

Smart Tip on Nail Clipping

Rub your puppy's paws often so he's used to having his feet touched. This will make nail trims much easier when he's an adult.




Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso