How To Quickly And Easily House Train Your Puppy

Today we are going to look at one of the most effective tools for housetraining a puppy, in the shortest amount of time possible. In order to housetrain your puppy quickly you have to truly understand what makes him tick, what mother nature has hard wired into his brain. Few new pet owners can argue that one of the most frustrating and unpleasant parts of welcoming a puppy as a new member of the family is housetraining him. And after a couple or more "accident around the house, it can bring you to the end of your rope very quickly

One of the most effective tools I have used in housetraining my puppies is using a crate. You see all dogs are den animals. They will instinctively seek out resting spots that are secure and sheltered. That is why you will typically find your pooch lying under tables, beds and resting in a closet. They are simply following thousands of years of instinct.
So, by using a crate we can take advantage of this benefit mother nature gave us to make this rather unpleasant task of housetraining your puppy much more bearable. Yes, I can hear all the animal lovers out there shouting "this is cruel to stuff your pet into such a confined area.

But hold on. Let's look at it from the dog's perspective shall we. Remember he is a den dwelling animal. When he becomes tired, frightened or is simply looking for cover he will always seek out den like shelter. And you will find that he will very quickly adopt his "crate" as his own den within your home. So how does this help us to housetrain our puppy? Simple, his den becomes his most personal place, his warm bed, his cozy, relaxing getaway. The last place he is going to take care of business is in his crate. This is so effective when you use it to your advantage.

A puppy has little or no bladder control. It's just like humans when we were babies. The puppy needs to learn what it feels like to have a full bladder, and then to respond by letting his owner know when he wants to go outside. We can easily accomplish this by confining him in his crate for longer periods of time each and every day. He may have an accident initially but after that he will catch on fast. After all, the last place he wants to go to the bathroom is in his bed and personal space.

What kind of crate should you get? There are a number of different types of crates available. But it usually boils down to two basic types. The plastic type crate, these are very durable and easy to clean. The wire crate type, these simply look like an oversized birdcage. Wire cages are easy to transport as they will fold up into a more compact space. But they are all so very open. You may have to cover the cage with a blanket to give a "shelter type" of feeling for your pooch when he's inside.

Using the crate on a consistent basis helps your puppy develop a regular and predictable schedule for elimination. And the biggest benefit is to you the pet owner, because the learning curve of this technique is surprisingly fast. Have you ever imagined how much easier your life is going to be not having to clean up any more surprises around the house? What's it going to be like when most of the frustration of housetraining a puppy will be gone, and you can concentrate on the joys of what a family pet can really bring to every member of the household?

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Foxtail Grass Dangerous To Dogs

If you have dogs, keep the foxtail out of your lawn. Foxtail is a common annual grass usually considered a weed. It grows one to three feet tall, with branching and some spreading at ground level. Leaf blades are 4 to 15 inches long. Flower heads are dense spikes with yellow to reddish, green or purplish bristles. As foxtail matures, seeds are formed at the top of the stalk. The bushy seeds are what gives the plant the name of "foxtail".
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When mature, the seeds detach easily from the plant. This is natures way of making sure that the plant reproduces. The seeds easily cling to clothing, fur, and hair. The seeds always move forward thus penetrating the skin.

The seeds found in the ears, eyes and nose are very serious and can become life threatening. But no body part is immune. The seeds have been found in the urethra, vagina, anal glands, brain, and spinal cord. In one case a veterinarian found the seed in the lung but the original site of entry was the paw. The seeds also gain entry through open wounds.

Foxtail seeds are very tiny so veterinarians usually go by symptoms. If in the nasal cavity, the dog sneezes repeatedly and violently often hitting the nose on the floor. If a bloody discharge is noticed assume it's a foxtail seed. If in the eye, the dog paws at the eye and the eye waters. If an eye is glued shut it is most likely a foxtail seed.

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If the seed is in the ear the dog shakes its head violently from side to side. Sometimes the dog paws at the eyes or ear, shaking the head and squints. In the mouth foxtail seeds can cause gagging or difficulty swallowing. If the seed gets caught between the teeth, in the gums, back of throat, or tongue problems can result.

If the seed lodges in the paw or under the coat a lump will form that is painful to the touch. Other symptoms include rubbing the head on the ground and going round in circles, licking or biting at the rectum or other body parts, or yelping or shining for no obvious reason. Foxtail seeds can cause fatalities when they reach internal organs.

In any case, do not attempt to treat the animal yourself. Get professional help. Get rid of all foxtail in your lawn or yard. If foxtail grows in your yard mow the grass often, especially in late spring when the plant grows most rapidly. This prevents the plant from ever setting seed.

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Avoid parks, or other recreational areas where you know foxtail grows. Always brush and inspect your dogs coat after being in grassy areas. Dogs with long hair are even more likely to attract the seeds than shorthaired breeds. Examine your dogs eyes and ears.

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Symptoms Of Pain And Illness In Dogs

Dog owners, who recognize the early signs and symptoms of illness or pain in their dogs, will not only relieve their loved one’s suffering but may also be able to save themselves an expensive trip to the veterinarian. Not only is it important to recognize these signs early to relieve pain and suffering, but it is much more effective to treat an illness when it is detected early. The dog owner should keep an accurate and detailed account of their dog’s symptoms to help the veterinarian correctly diagnose and effectively treat the dog’s illness or condition. Most canine illnesses are detected through a combination of various signs and symptoms.

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Temperature, Respiratory Rate and Heart Rate:

A newborn puppy will have a temperature of 94-97º F. which will eventually reach the normal adult body temperature of 101.5º F. at the age of 4 weeks old. Take care when trying to take your dog or puppies temperature as the thermometer can easily be broken off in the canine’s rectum. Also any form of excitement can cause the temperature to rise by 2-3º when the dog is actually in normal health. If your dog’s temperature reaches 105º or above OR 96º or below please take him/her to the emergency vet immediately!

An adult dog will have a respiratory rate of 15-20 breaths per minute (depending on such variables as size and weight) and a heart rate of 80-120 beats per minute. You can feel for your dog’s heartbeat by placing your hand on his/her lower ribcage just behind the elbow. Don’t be alarmed if the heartbeat seems irregular compared to a human’s heartbeat, it is irregular in many dogs. Have your vet check it out and get used to how it feels when it is normal.

Behavior Changes:

Any behavior changes that are not associated with a change in the household atmosphere, such as jealousy over a new pet or child may be an indication of an illness. Signs of behavioral changes may be:

•Depression

•Anxiety

•Fatigue

•Sleepiness

•Trembling

•Falling/Stumbling

If your dog shows any of these signs, he/she needs to be kept under close watch for a few hours, or even a few days, until positive signs develop or he/she has returned to normal. Do not try to exercise the dog or put him/her in any situation that may cause stress. Most veterinarians will want for you to keep track of when the symptoms first appeared, whether they are getting better or worse, and also whether the symptoms are intermittent, continuous, or increasing in frequency.

Pain:

Dogs that are in pain will likely indicate that they are suffering by giving you clues as to where the area of discomfort is. For instance, a dog that has abdominal pain will continually glance toward their belly, bite or lick the area, and will not want to leave his/her bed. The dog may stand hunched over, or take the ‘prayer position’ which is when a dog gets down on it’s forelegs with the hind legs still standing, because of the pain in her abdomen area.

Dogs can not tell you that they are hurting or cry real tears but a dog may vocalize their pain in a different way. A dog that is hurt suddenly (such as being stepped on) will cry out or wimper in pain. This also happens when an external injury or internal injury (such as an organ) is touched. Whining or vocalization that is unprovoked may be caused from an internal injury as well. Some breeds of dogs (such as the American Pit Bull Terrier) have a higher pain threshold and need to be watched more closely for signs of pain. Breeds with a high pain tolerance are more likely to endure the pain without vocalization.

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Another clue to pain is a change in temperament. A dog that is in pain may show signs of aggression. Please take note of this before concluding that a dog has become vicious and let your veterinarian know so that the correct treatment can be administered. Also they may in general (even humans!) have days when they are just in a bad mood for no obvious reason. Take note of days of times that these mood swings occur as well as any events that might have triggered them.

Other signs that your dog may be sick:

•Ears: discharge, debris, odor, scratching, crusted tips, twitching or shaking.

•Eyes: redness, swelling or discharge.

•Nose: runny, thickened or colored discharge, crusty.

•Coughing, sneezing, vomiting or gagging.

•Shortness of breath, irregular breathing or prolonged/heavy panting

•Evidence of parasites in the dog’s stool, strange color, blood in the stool, or lack of a bowel movement (constipation).

•Loss of appetite or not drinking as much water as normally would.

•Weight Loss.

•Strange color of urine, small amount of urine, straining, dribbling, or not going as frequently as normal.

•Bad odor coming from mouth, ears, or skin.

•Hair loss, wounds, tumors, dander or change of the skin’s color.

•Biting of the skin, parasites, scratching or licking the skin frequently.

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The preceding article was meant to help educate you to the signs and symptoms of probable pain or sickness in your dog. If any of these symptoms occur over a prolonged period of time, please seek the help of a veterinarian. I hope that this article will help stress the importance of keeping watch over your dog’s health patterns and the importance of keeping an accurate, detailed health record for your veterinarian’s convenience.

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Murmurs, Arrythmias, Heart Disease, & Failure

The heart is divided into four chambers. The right atrium receives unoxygenated blood which then goes past the tricuspid valve into the right ventricle. From here, blood is pumped into the lungs through the pulmonic arteries as it passes by the pulmonic valve. Blood flows to the lungs where it is oxygenated. The blood returns via pulmonary veins into the left atrium. From here, blood flows past the mitral valve into the left ventricle. From here, blood is pumped out to the rest of the body via the aorta as it passes by the aortic valve.

This sequence of events is coordinated by an electric impulse triggered by the SA node to result in a regular rhythmic lup-dup of the heart as it consistently relaxes and contracts.
Heart disease results from any abnormality of the heart. While heart disease can result in heart failure, it can be present and never lead to heart failure. Murmurs can be associated with heart disease that may be minor or serious in nature. Arrythmias are usually associated with serious heart disease. The heart disease may or may not necessitate treatment.

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Heart failure is the end-result of heart disease and occurs when the heart is decompensating from its heart disease and is working inefficiently to cope with the body's needs. It is associated with signs of congestion/edema, poor perfusion and low blood pressure. This condition always necessitates treatment.

Signs:

Some pets may have significant heart disease without signs. However, their condition can change quickly with stress or exertion as the heart starts to fail.

Most dogs with significant heart failure will show some or all of the following signs:

coughing, especially at night

fatigue

tiring with exercise

a change in gum color from pink to a bluish color

difficulty breathing or rapid, shallow breathing at rest

These signs occur due to accumulation of fluid in or around the lungs and in the abdomen.
Most cats, however, show no signs before complete failure occurs. They can go from being apparently normal cats to open mouth breathing or fast, shallow breathing or having inability to use their legs when they have a clot (emboli) originating from the heart that lodges in their aorta. Cats can also suddenly die at home and pass away before anything can be done to help them.

Problems with the heart:

Arrythmias:

These may be primary, that is, associated with the heart directly and resulting from a heart condition. Arrythmias can also be secondary to problems with other organs in the body or occur in reaction to toxins or anesthesia.

Arrythmias may be heard during a routine physical exam where the animals shows no outward signs of a problem; they may be heard when an animal presents for fatigue, collapse or "seizure" like signs. Arrythmias are categorized according to the chamber with which they are associated. Arrythmias of the atrium are called supraventricular, while arrythmias of the ventricles are called ventricular. Bradyarrythmia is a decreased heart rate, while tachyarrythmia is an elevated heart rate.

Murmurs:

Murmurs result when there are changes within the heart. These can be from thickening of the valves (endocardiosis), narrowing near the valves (stenosis), thickening or thinning of the chambers (cardiomyopathy) or infection of the heart (endocarditis). Murmurs may be heard during a routine physical exam where the animal has no symptoms of a problem (asymptomatic). Murmurs may be heard when the animal is showing signs of heart failure (fatigue, difficulty breathing, fainting or coughing).

Sometimes, with soft murmurs in puppies and kittens, they can be "innocent", that is, they will eventually disappear and cause no problems for the animal. A murmur that develops later in life, after six months of age, is more likely to be from disease. Murmurs are graded in loudness on a scale from 1 to 6, one being a soft, barely heard murmur to six being able to be heard without a stethoscope. While murmur loudness is useful in its description, it often doesn't correlate directly with the severity of the heart problem.

Murmurs can indicate a primary heart problem or can be secondary to other conditions such as anemia in dogs and cats (when the blood is thin and more prone to turbulence) or hyperthyroidism in cats (when having elevated levels of thyroid hormone put an excessive strain on the heart).

Congenital Heart Conditions:

Animals can be born with a heart condition resulting from a congenital malformation. These are seen in young animals and can be hereditary. For this reason, these animals should not be bred. Certain breeds of dogs and cats are more likely to have certain congenital heart conditions, but even mixed breeds can be affected. Some common congenital heart defects are:

Patent Ductus Arteriosis (PDA):

A shunt is present in the fetal state that fails to close in the young animal, resulting in a direct connection between the pulmonary artery and aorta. The flow of blood is usually left-to-right, occasionally, though, if pressure builds up in the lungs, the flow can be right-to-left. These conditions are treated differently.

Pulmonic Stenosis and Aortic Stenosis:

These are areas of constriction or narrowing near or at the pulmonic or aortic valves.

Atrial Septal Defect (ASD) and Ventricular Septal Defect (VSD):

These are openings due to an incomplete wall between the two atria or two ventricles.

Mitral or Tricuspid Valve Dysplasia:

There are malformed mitral or tricuspid valves that result in abnormal blood flow.
In general, subaortic and pulmonic stenosis and patent ductus arteriosus are the most common congenital abnormalities in dogs, and ventricular septal defect and tricuspid valve dyplasia are the most common congenital abnormalities in cats.

Hernias:

Peritoneopericardial diaphragmatic hernias refer to the condition in which an animal is born with an opening of the diaphragm and the pericardial sac, allowing herniation of abdominal contents into the chest cavity and into the sac that surrounds the heart.

Acquired Heart Conditions:

Most heart disease in animals is acquired, that is, associated with a condition that develops over time. Certain breeds of dogs and cats are more likely to have certain acquired heart disease. The most common conditions are:

Mitral valve disease (MVD):

This occurs when there is thickening of the mitral valve on the left side of the heart; this results in abnormal blood flow. It is also known as mitral regurgitation.

Cardiomyopathy:

These are disease of the heart muscle. This condition is common in older small breed dogs.
Dilative, the most common form in dogs, is when the chamber walls are thin and the chamber size is enlarged. There is a higher incidence in Boxers, Doberman pinschers, Cocker spaniels and Great Danes. Hypertrophic, the most common form in cats, is when the chamber walls are thickened, and there is less room for blood inside the chamber. Restrictive and mixed forms of cardiomyopathy are two other forms that can occur in cats.

Pericardial disease:

This refers to accumulation of fluid in the sac that surrounds the heart (pericardial sac); this can occur from cancer, trauma, infection or for no known reason (idiopathic).

Heartworm disease:

This can occur in dogs and is acquired via mosquitoes; cats living in areas frequented with mosquitoes carrying the heartworm larvae can occasionally acquire this disease. Heartworms, left untreated, will lead to heart failure.

Cardiac tests:

Tests are required to differentiate between the different forms of heart disease and indicate what type of treatment is needed.

Radiographs:

These show the overall heart size and arteries and veins of the lungs. It can show if one side of the heart is larger than the other and suggest what chambers may be enlarged. It can also check for the presence of fluid associated with the lungs (pulmonary edema or effusion) and for the presence of abdominal fluid (ascites) and other organ enlargement, especially, the liver.

Echocardiogram:

This is an ultrasound of the heart, the most useful test there is to determine the presence and type of heart disease. It allows for the measurement of the chambers (the wall thickness) and for the evaluation of heart valves' efficiency. It indicates overall heart performance and helps to dictate what type of treatment is needed. Follow-up echocardiograms show if the treatment is working or not.

Electrocardiogram (ECG or EKG):

This shows the heart's rate and rhythm and helps to determine what type of arrythmias are present. It can also suggest if there is chamber enlargement.

Blood and urine tests:

A blood panel and urine test showing organ function is valuable in evaluating the body as a whole. Sometimes, the heart can affect other organs; sometimes, the animal has concurrent disease. It is important to have a "baseline" of the body's function, before heart medication is started. Some values, especially kidney function and electrolytes, may need to be rechecked over time once treatment is started.

Blood pressure:

Hypertension can occur with both heart and kidney disease and can make the animal's condition worse. High blood pressure is treatable and its control may help the pet's heart condition.




Home monitoring:

Since a pet is more relaxed at home, heart and respiratory rates taken at home are more accurate than those in the hospital. It is important to learn to monitor a pet's breathing pattern since this can be a clue of fluid accumulation in the chest and even a pet's heart rate can indicate if the heart disease is under control or not. A heart rate can be measured by placing a hand on the pet's chest and inside the thigh to feel the femoral artery.

An inexpensive stethoscope can serve this purpose also. Count the heart rate for 15 seconds and multiply the number by four to get the number of beats per minute. Similarly, the respiration rate can be counted. A normal resting heart and respiratory rate for a dog, respectively, is 100-120 beats per minute and 12-20 respirations per minute. A normal resting heart and respiratory rate for a cat, respectively, is 120-160 beats per minute and 24-32 respirations per minute.

Hospital monitoring:

Rechecks for radiographs to evaluate lung changes, ultrasound to evaluate heart function, rechecks of blood pressure levels, and blood and urine tests to evaluate organ function while on medications are all important to assuring the pet a good quality of life while coping with heart disease or heart failure. The goal is to make the heart last longer and prevent complications of heart disease and failure by giving daily medications.

Treatment:

Treatment is usually medical and is directed at helping the heart cope with the results of its inefficient state. There are many human drugs that are used to manage pets with heart disease and in heart failure. However, is surgery is rarely of help; only in patients with left to right patent ductus arteriosis (PDA) may benefit from surgery.

Diet:

Since sodium/ salt can retain water and further increase work on the heart, feeding a prescription low sodium diet is recommended for pets in heart failure. However, it does not appear to be beneficial in preventing heart failure. Diet changes for a pet with heart problems include not feeding salty snacks and commercial dog and cat foods since they tend to have a lot of sodium. However, low sodium diets are less palatable, and some pets refuse to eat them. Examples of low-sodium prescription diets are: Hill's H/D for dogs and Purina's CV for cats. For dogs, there is also a home-made diet formulation.

Diuretics:

This is a class of drugs that result in increased urine output as they "draw" fluid out of the lungs. Examples of commonly used drugs are lasix (Furosemide or Disal), spironolactone (Aldactone) and hydrochlorothiazide (Chlorothiazide). These drugs are overall safe, but animals must be monitored for dehydration, electrolyte imbalances and for the worsening of kidney failure, if present.

Angiotension converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors:

This is a class of drugs that reduce the work load on the heart and lower blood pressure. Examples of commonly used drugs are enalapril (also known as Vasotec or Enacard) or benazapril (Lotensin). These drugs are overall safe, but animals must be monitored for negative effects on the kidneys and excessive lowering of blood pressure.

Digitalis:

This is a class of drugs that increase the strength of contractions of the heart. They also have anti-arrythmic effects and are used to control supraventricular arrhythmias. Examples of commonly used drugs are digoxin (Lanoxin) and digitoxin (Crystodigin). These drugs can be toxic and must be used carefully. Blood levels can be monitored as a guide to dosing the drug. Excessively high levels can cause a decreased appetite, kidney dysfunction or ventricular arrhythmias.

Calcium channel blockers:

This is a class of drugs that relax the heart tissue and decrease the rate of an excessively fast heart rate, such as in cases of hypertrophy, so the heart can fill more efficiently. They can also be used to treat hypertension. Examples include dilitazem (Cardizem) and amlodipine (Norvasc). These drugs are overall safe but blood pressure must be monitored.

Beta adrenergic blockers:

This is a class of drugs that decrease the heart rate and relax the heart muscle in cases of hypertrophy. Examples include atenolol (Tenormin) and sotalol (Betapace).

Oxygen therapy:

While it is helpful in an emergency situation for a pet in fulminant heart failure in a hospital, it is not practical for home application.

Nutritional supplements:

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Taurine- in the past, taurine deficiency was a common cause of dilated cardiomyopathy in cats. Due to supplementation in cat foods, it is a rare condition now. Some forms of dilated cardiomyopathy in dogs, especially that occurring in Cocker spaniels, can be responsive to taurine supplementation. Carnitine- Some dogs, especially Boxers with dilated cardiomyopathy, may benefit with supplementation of carnitine. If you have questions regarding this disease, please don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.



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Introducing Your Puppy To The World

Socializing your puppy is an important step in helping him find his place in the world of people and other dogs. A puppy naturally begins socializing within the litter. But once he's removed from the litter, it's vital the socialization process continues in his new environment. You want your puppy to grow up confident and comfortable in his surroundings. Able to meet strangers without cowering. Playful and interactive with new dogs. Never aggressive when encountering an unfamiliar situation.




Introducing Your Puppy To New People:

Your puppy is going to grow up in a world full of people. Interaction is a natural part of that world. Whether it's the kids next door peeking over the fence. Or the UPS deliveryman standing in the front doorway. Or friends who have come to visit. You want your puppy to enjoy these encounters and take them all in stride. By exposing him to as many different people as possible while he's still between 6 and 12 weeks of age you can help him socialize.

Invite friends or neighbors over to meet your new puppy. Have them kneel down to his level and offer him a favorite dog biscuit. Make sure they don't use any sudden movements that might frighten him. And make sure your puppy receives praise for accepting the snack. This will help discourage shyness and fear.

Take him for walks to the park or the pet store or about the neighborhood, where he can meet new people. If strangers ask to pet him, make sure you praise your puppy for his good behavior and for remaining calm.

Take him to obedience classes, where he'll be around other dogs and people. If your puppy appears to panic in the midst of all the activity, don't force the issue. You can always try again later. But make sure you don't reassure him if he's fearful, either. This will only reinforce the behavior. Basically, you want to take advantage of every opportunity to expose your puppy to new people. Each new experience will contribute to his growing confidence.


Introducing Your Puppy To New Dogs:

A puppy first learns to socialize with his siblings. This interaction helps him learn to inhibit his biting and develop self-control. It also helps your puppy to expend all that puppy energy, making him much less hyperactive and destructive around the house. So what can you do to help him after he's left the litter? Puppy kindergarten and puppy training are both good ways to keep him interacting with other dogs.

A local puppy socialization class is also a good choice.

Or you might try heading down to your nearest dog park, which is always a great place to exercise your puppy while he meets other dogs. All of these outings should be fun, without any pressure on your puppy to perform. Let him interact with the other dogs at his own leisure.

If none of those work for you, see if you can find a doggy day care service in your area. You can drop your puppy off on your way to work and let him spend the day playing and interacting with other dogs until you pick him up on your way home. Once a week is fine. More often if you'd like.

Finally, if you already have an older dog in the house, often he'll provide all the play and guidance your new puppy needs.

Introducing Your Puppy To New Situations:

The modern world is full of stimuli for a puppy. There are car trips, televisions, vacuum cleaners, door bells, crying babies, fireworks, trips to the vet, music and hundreds of other new experiences.

Expose your puppy to as many of these situations as possible. The more, the better. As before, however, don't push him into these experiences. Let him deal with them at his leisure. And when he reacts with fear, don't give him the wrong message by comforting him. This only reinforces his fear and will make it more difficult for him to deal with other new situations.


Socializing your puppy should be a fun process. Keep after it diligently, and you'll have a calm, confident, and friendly family companion.

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Training Your Shy Or Fearful Puppy Or Dog

With dogs as with people, some dogs and puppies are naturally more bold and daring than others. When you watch a group of puppies play, it will quickly become apparent which ones are bold and which ones are shy. Some of the puppies will hang back at the edge of the pack, perhaps fearful of angering the stronger dogs, while others will jump right into the fray and start jostling for control.
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Working with a shy puppy or dog, or one that is fearful, presents its own special challenges. Of course bold, forceful dogs present challenges of their own, especially with control and leadership issues. Every type of puppy or dog has its own unique personality and its own unique training challenges as a result.

One important reason to build confidence in a fearful dog is to prevent biting. High fear dogs often become biters to deal with their fear of new situations, and this type of fear response can be dangerous for you and your dog. It is important to teach the puppy or dog that new situations and new people are nothing to fear, and that they are not out to hurt him.

Signs of fear in both puppies and dogs include being afraid of strangers, being leery of new situations, and avoiding certain people or objects. A fearful puppy or dog may also snap or bite, especially when cornered.

If you recognize signs of fear in your dog or puppy, it is important to act quickly. Fear responses can quickly become ingrained in a dog, and once those fear memories are planted they can be difficult to erase. Properly socializing a young puppy is essential to making sure your dog is not fearful, and will not become a fear biter.

Many puppies are raised as only dogs, but even these puppies should be given the opportunity to play with other puppies and with well socialized older dogs and friendly cats as well. The more novel situations the puppy encounters when he is young, the better he will be able to adapt to new situations as an adult dog.

Adapting to new and changing situations is a vital life skill that every puppy must learn. As you know, the world is constantly changing and adapting, and it is vital that both you and your four legged companion learn to take these changes in stride.

It is important for owners to not inadvertently reinforce or reward shy or fearful behaviors. For instance, when a puppy or dog shows fear, by whining, crying or hiding, it is only natural for the owner to go over and reassure the dog. This type of reassurance, however, can be misinterpreted by the animal as a sign of approval from the pack leader.

When the dog or puppy displays fearful or shy behavior, the best strategy is simply to ignore him. The dog must be able to learn on his own that there is nothing to fear. If left alone, a dog will often start to explore the fearful object on his own, thereby learning that the initial fear reaction was mistaken. The owner must allow the dog to explore things on his own, and not try to coddle or over protect him.
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Another reason for fear reactions, particularly in older dogs, is past abuse or lack of proper socialization as puppies. The window for good puppy socialization is relatively short, and once this window has closed it can be difficult to teach a dog how to socialize with dogs and other animals.

Likewise, a dog that has been abused probably has all sorts of negative associations, and it is up to a patient owner to work with the dog to replace those fear reactions with more appropriate responses.

When working with an older fearful dog, it is important not to try to rush the socialization and fear abatement process. It is best to simply allow the dog to explore things on his own, even if it means he spends a lot of time hiding from the perceived monster. Trying to force the dog to confront the things he fears will do more harm than good.

It is also important to address already ingrained fear based behaviors, such as biting, snapping and growling, whether they result from past abuse, a lack of socialization or a combination of factors. If the dog is frightened and reacts defensively to strangers, it is important to introduce him slowly.

It is important to correct these potentially dangerous behaviors, however, and teach the dog that fear is no excuse for growling, snapping or biting. The best way to do this is to immediately reprimand and correct the dog when he bites, snaps or growls at anyone.

The dog should be generously rewarded the minute it stops displaying aggressive behavior. If you do find yourself having to reprimand your dog for displaying aggressive behaviors, it probably means you have tried to move him along too quickly.

It is important to avoid threatening situations as much as possible until the dog has built up the confidence it takes to deal with those situations. If you think you have moved too fast, take a few steps back and let the dog regain his confidence.

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Seizures And Your Pet

Seizures have specific characteristics according to if they are generalized or partial.

Generalized Seizures:

There is whole body involvement with some or all of the following signs: loss of consciousness (the pet is unaware of its surroundings and doesn't respond to its name when called), loss of control of the legs (collapse or involuntary twitching or jerking of the legs), loss of control of the head (clamping motions of jaw), and loss of control of bladder and rectum (urination and/or defecation).

Partial seizures:

There is partial body involvement with either involuntary head or leg movements or sometimes, abrupt behavioral changes. The seizure itself is often followed by a period of disorientation that may last a few minutes to several hours. Other episodes that can look like seizures are fainting spells associated with heart disease and/or arryhthmias or sleep disorders.

Causes:

Causes of seizures can originate from the brain (intracranial) or outside the brain (extracranial).

Intracranial causes:

Epilepsy (recurring seizures in a young to middle aged dog or cat after other causes have been ruled out), trauma, migrating parasites, viral infections, bacterial infections, immune-mediated diseases, tumors.

Extracranial causes:

Low blood sugar levels (hypoglycemia): common in small breed puppies, poorly regulated diabetic cats, and dogs with pancreatic tumors (insulinomas)

Low calcium levels (hypocalcemia): can occur in small breed pregnant dogs or shortly after birthing, or hyperthyroid cats that recently have undergone surgery

Toxicities with organ dysfunction: liver, kidney

Ingested toxins: snail bait (metaldehyde), antifreeze (ethylene glycol), lead, insecticides, rodenticides (strychnine, bromethalin).

Diagnosis:

Complete blood panel including chemistries can rule out most extracranial causes. If these are normal, the problem is most likely originating from the brain. The brain, unfortunately, is inaccessible to easily performed tests.

Other tests:

Tests to assess brain function and structure are often invasive, costly, require special equipment and must be done under general anesthesia. These procedures include: CSF taps (sample of the cerebral spinal fluid) to evaluate for inflammation or infection; EEG (electroencephalogram) to assess brain wave activity; magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and computed tomography (CT) scans are used to check for masses such as tumors, abscesses or other lesions.

Because of the difficulty involved with completely assessing the brain, the diagnosis of epilepsy is often based on normal blood results, an animal's age, breed, and a recurrent pattern of seizures. Depending on the frequency and/or intensity of the seizures, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment to control them. While the goal of treatment is to abolish seizures completely, this may not be feasible. But often the frequency and intensity can be lessened to allow the pet to have a good quality of life. Treatment is usually life long.

Treatment:

If seizures are associated with a specific cause (hypoglycemia, hypocalcemia), this is addressed. If epilepsy is diagnosed, treatment options include:

Monitoring without treatment--If the seizures happen infrequently (1-6 times a year) and aren't long lasting, some owners opt for their animals "to live with it" rather than giving daily medication. Ideally, you should keep track of the frequency and duration of your animal's seizures, and your veterinarian should be contacted if the frequency, duration and/or intensity of the seizures increases.

Medications--Regardless of the type of medication chosen to control your pet's seizures, it is important you stay in close contact with your veterinarian with the goal of minimizing the seizures. These drugs can be used at a low doses initially, but increasing the dose and/or adding on other drugs may be necessary if seizures persist. Any changes in drug dosages and/or frequencies of administration should only be done on the advice of your veterinarian.

Phenobarbital --This may be obtained from your veterinarian or through an outside pharmacy. It must be given 2 times daily; the dosage is adjusted according to if the seizures are controlled. This medication will cause increased thirst, increased urine output, hunger, and sometimes weight gain. Drowsiness is common when first starting the medication. Since it is metabolized by the liver, elevation in liver enzymes is common. Care must be taken when other drugs are given to a patient on phenobarbital, since negative drug - drug interactions can occur.

Potassium Bromide -- This medication can be obtained only through some, but not all, outside pharmacies. It is given 1-2 times daily in the form of a compounded liquid or pill. The dosage and frequency is adjusted according to if the seizures are controlled. When given once daily, it is usually given in the evening. Since the liquid is bitter tasting, it is recommended to give it with food. This medication will occasionally cause drowsiness when first started.

Valium (diazepam): This medication can be obtained through any outside pharmacy. This drug alone usually can not effectively manage seizure patients for long term control. Given as needed, it is useful for short term control of seizures when it is given immediately orally when a pet is recovering from a seizure. This is to prevent yet another seizure from occurring ("clustering"). A few dogs will have such intense seizures that they may necessitate administration of injectable valium (given rectally via syringe), given by the owners at home.

Management:

If no seizures have occurred for a year or more, sometimes the drug doses are decreased. This should only be done after consulting with your veterinarian. If seizures persist, the medication must be continued, and the dosage is often increased or combined with another medication. This should only be done after consulting with your veterinarian

Drug blood levels and panels and monitoring:

Doing general blood panels, especially to evaluate liver enzymes while on phenobarbital treatment, and electrolytes when on potassium bromide treatment, are important in monitoring your pet's overall health. These are recommended at least yearly. These can be done at any time in relation to time of administration of the drugs. Measurements of drug levels of phenobarbital and potassium bromide are usually done within 6-8 weeks of starting these medications. It is recommended to test levels yearly and following a change in dosing.

These are timed tests so that it is important when scheduling appointments for measurement of drug levels, it is correlated with when the medication was administered. Phenobarbital levels are done within 10-12 hours post pilling and potassium bromide levels are checked just prior to the time when the pet normally receives the medication. There are no blood levels done to evaluate valium levels.

When your pet does have a seizure, stay calm and provide a quiet environment (dim the lights and avoid loud noises). Do not put your fingers in its mouth. Note the duration and intensity of the seizure and contact your veterinarian. If you have questions regarding this disease and its treatment, do not hesitate to contact your veterinarian.

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Grapes, Nuts, And Your Dogs Health

"Magoo was a big, playful Labrador retriever who often got himself into sticky situations. So begins a story in the latest report from the ASPCA on foodsthat may be toxic to dogs. It turns out that Magoo got into the pantry and snagged himself about a pound of raisins. He ate the whole thing, of course. The ASPCA never mentions Magoo's fate. But they do tell us that as little as a handful of raisins can impair a dogs health and has been fatal for some. Ditto for the grape. Who Knew?

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Growing up, I regarded our family dogs as "the first cycle of the dishwasher". They were good about waiting their turn for whatever we left on our plates, and we weren't too concerned about offering them "people food". It never crossed our minds that our dogs health could be affected by a few measly table scraps. What was safe for us, we figured, was safe for our pets.

What's more, whenever I ate grapes, I liked to give one or two to our German Shepherd "Tiffany". The grapes always popped out of her mouth when she tried to bite into them and Tiffany, ever the good sport, refused to give up until she'd squashed each one into submission. It guaranteed at least 60 seconds of harmless fun. Tiffany was also fond of chewing gum (she chewed it, wrapper and all but didn't swallow it!) We had the sugarless kind, which is often sweetened these days with xylitol.
Little did I know that I might have been poisoning our family pet! (More on xylitol below).

Why are grapes harmful?

As far as grapes and raisins go, no one is sure why they're harmful. It's been confirmed that even grapes grown without fertilizers or pesticides can be toxic to dogs. But not to every dog, and not every time. It's also not known whether small amounts eaten over a long time period could have a cumulative effect.

What we do know is that the end result in nearly all reported cases of grape or raisin toxicity is acute kidney failure. (The term "acute" means that the condition is severe and comes on quickly.) The dog ultimately can't produce urine, which means they can't filter toxins out of their systems. A process essential to life.

During the twelve-month period in which the effects of grapes were studied, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center handled 140 cases involving one or more dogs. Over a third of the dogs developed symptoms ranging from vomiting to kidney failure, and seven dogs died. The ASPCA based their study on reported cases, so naturally there may be cases where a dogs health is entirely unaffected by eating grapes. But until they know all the facts, the Society advises against feeding pets grapes or raisins in any amount. An ounce of prevention So, your dog just scored himself a big box of raisins. What's a pet owner should do?

The first line of defense, if the grapes or raisins were eaten recently, is to induce vomiting and administer activated charcoal (it absorbs toxins in the GI tract). Vomiting is also the first sign that your dog is in trouble, so skip right to the activated charcoal if vomiting has already occurred. (In a pinch you can make your own activated charcoal by charring a piece of toast until it's blackened and crumbles easily.) Then call your vet right away.

The vet will keep your dog on intravenous fluids for at least 48 hours and monitor blood chemistry daily. Normal blood work after 3 days usually means your dog is in the clear.
Keeping a watchful eye out, of course, is the best way to keep your pet out of trouble. Like children, dogs (and other pets) have a knack for getting into mischief when we're not looking. It's Not Just the Grapes. There are other foods your dog should be kept away from, and some of them may surprise you.

Here are some other foods that can put a dogs health in harms way:

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Chocolate:

Who can resist chocolate? Like it your not, your dog. Chocolate is made with cocoa beans and cocoa beans contain a chemical called Theobromine, which is toxic to dogs. So on Valentine's Day, you're actually being kind to your best buddy if you eat all the chocolates yourself.

Cocoa Mulch:

Cocoa bean shells are a by-product of chocolate production (which is how mulch made it into the "foods" category) and are popular as mulch for landscaping. Homeowners like the attractive color and scent, and the fact that the mulch breaks down into an organic fertilizer. However, some dogs like to eat it and it contains Theobromine.

Fatty foods:

Fatty foods are hard for a dog to digest and can can overtax the pancreas, leading to pancreatitis. This can threaten your dogs health and is potentially fatal.

Nuts:

Macadamia nuts should be avoided. In fact most nuts are not good for a dogs health since their high phosporus content is said to lead to bladder stones.

Mulch:

Mulch isn't food, but there's one type tempting enough for dogs to eat. Some dogs are attracted to cocoa mulch, and will eat it in varying quantities. The coca bean shells can contain from 0.2% to 3% theobromine (the toxin ) as compaired to 1-4% in unprocessed beans.

Onions:

Onions, especially raw onions, have been shown to trigger hemolytic anemia in dogs. (Stephen J Ettinger, D.V.M and Edward C. Fieldman, D.V.M. 's book: Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine vol. 2 pg 1884.) Stay away from onion powder too.

Potatoes:

Potato poisonings among people and dogs are rare but have occurred. The toxin, solanine, is poorly absorbed and is only found in green sprouts (these occur in tubers exposed to sunlight) and green potato skins. This explains why incidents seldom occur. Note that cooked, mashed potatoes are fine for a dogs health, actually quite nutritious and digestible.

Artificial Sweeteners:

Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, especially sugarless gum and candies. Ingesting large amounts of products sweetened with xylitol may cause a sudden drop in blood sugar in dogs, resulting depression, loss of coordination, and seizures. According to Dr. Eric K. Dunayer, a consulting veterinarian in clinical toxicology for the poison control center. These signs can develop quite rapidly, at times less than 30 minutes after ingestion of the product. Therefore, it is important that pet owners seek veterinary treatment immediately.

Turkey:

Turkey skin is currently thought to cause acute pancreatis in dogs, partly due to it's high fat content.

Other foods listed by the ASPCA as harmful:

Alcoholic beverages

Avocado (the only "fatty" member of the vegetable family)

Coffee (all forms of coffee)

Moldy or spoiled

foodsSalt

RawYeast dough

Garlic

The Bottom Line:

Thanks to a more educated public, fewer fatalities from foods like chocolate are being reported these days. But it's important to keep up with what's currently known about foods and their effects on dogs health. Grapes and cocoa mulch, for example, were only discovered very recently to have harmful effects. Check frequently with sources like the (ASPCA Poison Control: 888-426-4435)

Of course, being alert and getting your pet to the vet promptly will help assure a happy outcome if something unfortunate should happen. Here's to your dogs health and good nutrition!

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Achieving Dog Training Success With The 18 "Don'ts"

A well trained dog usually leads a happier and healthier life and its owner also can enjoy a trouble-free life long companion. Dog training, basic obedience, house and potty training are therefore essential and important to a dog's education.

The conventional method of dog training tips and guide would be to list a series of things that you should do and you might even know the A-Z of dog training. But sometimes what should be done can be said best by telling what should not be done. Hope you agree with me!

This article seeks to list 18 "Don'ts" when you train your dog. The reasons for the don'ts will become evident as the lessons continue and each one is based upon the distinctive psychology of the dog's mind.

1. Do not punish your dog while you are angry or lack control of yourself.

2. Do not punish your dog with the lead or any instrument of training or anything he should associate with duty or pleasure.

3. Do not sneak up on your dog or grab him from the rear.

4. Do not chase your dog to catch him; he must come to you or run after you.

5. Do not coax your dog to you and then turn upon him with the whip. You will regret the deception.

6. Do not trick or fool or taunt your dog. It is cruel and inconsistent to tease your dog to come to you when he can not.

7. Do not punish a dog by stepping on his paws needlessly. They are exceedingly sensitive. Don't twist his ears playfully or otherwise. Never strike him on the backbone, in the face or on the ears.

8. Do not grab your dog or reach for him quickly. He should never fear his master, should not be made nervous by his master and should feel that punishment given is deserved.

9. Do not nag your dog. Don't be giving orders to him constantly, don't pester him with your shouting.

10. Do not praise a dog for doing a certain act, and then at a later time, scold him for doing the same act. If you permit him to bite your toes today and think it fun, do not strike him for doing it tomorrow, when you are not in good humor. Consistency is a chief virtue in dog training.

11. Do not train your dog immediately or soon after he has eaten.

12. Do not lose patience with a puppy younger than six months. Never throw or kick a puppy nor lift him by the head or leg or skin of the neck.

13. Do not train him in feats requiring much strength or endurance until he is at least six months old.

14. Do not work your dog without some short rest or play periods during training. A five-minute rest for every fifteen minutes of training is desirable.

15. Do not permit everyone to give commands to your dog. While you are training him, he must be a one-man dog, depending on you alone to feed him and care for him.

16. Do not consider tricks the chief end or the chief part of training. Usefulness is the object sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog's instincts are to be fostered.

17. Do not expect your dog to be a wonderful dog after a few weeks of training. Four months to a year may be necessary in order to make the master proud of him but the work is worth the effort. Training never ends.

18. Do not jump to the conclusion that your dog is dumb. He may differ with you believing that the trainer should know more than the dog. To end, try to remember these 18 Don'ts rules, enjoy training your dog and most importantly have lots of fun along the way.

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Lyme Disease In Dogs Is A Serious Matter

Lyme disease is caused by an organism known as a spirochete, which is a coiled rod-shaped bacterium and named Borrelia burgdorferi. It is passed to dogs and people by deer ticks carrying the infection; the ticks get the infection from the white-footed mouse, which acts as a carrier. The only way a tick can transmit the bacteria is to remain attached to the animal's skin for one to two days. Unfortunately, these ticks are very small and easily can go unnoticed.
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Lyme disease in dogs has been found worldwide and in ancient Chinese medical literature they actually describe a syndrome very similar to Lyme disease, thousands of years before Lyme, Connecticut was named. In the United States, more than 90% of the cases occur in the Northeast, with California and Mississippi second. Lyme disease in dogs is fairly common, but rarely seen in cats, although some cats have been infected with it.

The main clinical signs of Lyme disease in dogs include a sudden yet recurring lameness that may shift from leg to leg. Sometimes this lameness is associated with a fever and depression. Occasionally you will see swollen lymph nodes. Sometimes the joints may be swollen, feel warm, and it's very painful. The dog infected will usually walk stiffly with a hunched back.

Lyme disease in dogs is really very painful and they commonly are very sensitive to touch and may cry out with even the slightest touch. Many dogs with Lyme disease that were diagnosed with slipped discs in their neck and crying in pain and it was actually Lyme disease causes muscle spasms in the neck and they only improved when they were administered the appropriate antibiotic.

Sometimes you will see the classic red round target lesion around a tick bite on your pet and within a few days they may show the signs of lameness, fever and sensitivity to touch. If you suspect your pet has Lyme disease, take them to the vet immediately for treatment.

Treatment:

Treatment involves the use of an appropriate antibiotic, such as doxycycline, for at least three to four weeks.

Prognosis

Dogs should begin to show signs of recovery two to three days after beginning treatment. However, the disease may recur within a few weeks or months; in these cases, the dog will need to return to antibiotic therapy for extended periods.

Prevention:

There is a vaccine for the prevention of Lyme disease. Quick removal of a tick also will help prevent Lyme disease because the tick must remain attached to the dog's body for one to two days before the disease can be transmitted. Consult with a veterinarian about the different tick prevention products that are available, as they can be an effective way to prevent the disease. The sooner you start treatment, the sooner your pet will be without pain.

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Protecting Your Pets From Fleas And Ticks

Fleas are wingless, blood-sucking insects that feed on dog, cats, humans and other species. There are many different types of flea each one specific to the animal that it lives on. The most frequent fleas found in the home are the cat flea and dog flea.

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THE FLEA PROBLEM

Fleas and ticks are responsible for a number of diseases in pets and people. Some types of ticks, for example, can transmit the bacteria that cause Lyme disease to animals and humans and some fleas can harbor tapeworm larvae, which grow into adult tapeworms in the intestines of pets or people. Flea bites commonly cause skin irritation and itching and some pets are allergic to flea saliva.

Taking care of your pets responsibly includes protecting them from fleas and ticks. Fleas can be a problem even in the best kept homes and on the cleanest of pets. The best approach to managing fleas is prevention. But if you already have a flea problem, you can control them as long as you treat both your pet and your home. Many products are available to help control fleas and ticks on pets and in their environment. Check with your veterinarian for appropriate treatments.

FLEA TREATMENT AND CONTROL

The objective of treatment is to break the flea life cycle by treating the home, the pets, and the outside environment with insecticide. Before purchasing and applying pesticide products to pets to control fleas and ticks, talk to your veterinarian about the best product to use and how to treat the animal, as well as the environment.

After feeding on your pet's blood the female flea lays eggs which drop into the animal's bedding or favourite resting place. The highest concentration of eggs, larvae and pupae are likely to be in these areas rather than on the animal itself. This means the vast majority of the flea population lives in your yard or home.

Regular cleaning of bedding combined with thorough vacuuming of furniture and floors will help to destroy each stage of the flea's life cycle. Frequently vacuum floors, upholstered furniture, and areas where pets may sleep indoors. Treat animal bedding by boiling, or use animal-safe insecticides or other products recommended by your vet.



When treating the yard, don't forget to treat under bushes and in flower beds. If pets travel in the car, treat car seats and carpets as well. You should continue to vacuum the house frequently and thoroughly. Throw away the dust bag (vacuum cleaner bags) from your vacuum after each use to prevent any flea eggs and larvae from developing. Don't allow pets to roam and pick up fleas from other animals and keep pets out of hard to clean areas.

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Once fleas are established, eliminating them requires persistence. If home treatments are ineffective, professional extermination may be needed. Further advice on methods of treatment can be obtained from the environmental health officer at your local council or a
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Preventing A Dog Bite

Most humans are not aware that some of their body postures when greeting an unfamiliar dog are perceived as a threat in the dog world. For example: typical human behavior when greeting a dog is to say over and over again, "it's ok, it's ok," as they extend their arm out to reach over the dog's head to give them a pet. This is a threatening posture in the dog world. Always let the dog approach you in their own time, especially if it does not want to meet you.
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When they are comfortable with you and are allowing you to touch them, then, rather than reaching to pet their head go for under their chin, and pet their chest or the shoulders. If a dog is running at you and you think it might be in attack mode, then stand sideways. If you pay attention next time you see two unfamiliar dogs approach each other, you'll notice they keep their body in a neutral position by standing side by side.

Does a wagging tail mean "hey, I am friendly," or can it also mean "Hey, come over here - I want bite you"? Yes, both. A dog can be wagging its tail to greet you or wagging its tail because it is weary of your presence. A dog with its tail way up in the air, stiff and moving rapidly back and forth, could be feeling a little dominant or feeling the need to defend itself. If you get mixed messages from a dog, to be on the safe side, do not approach it.
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Dogs that are tethered or chained are more likely to be aggressive and are prone to more behavioral problems. The reason for this is usually lack of socialization with humans and other dogs. There is a frustration factor here that has been building up for some time. These dogs have a chase instinct that is constantly challenged by the boundaries of their restraint. The largest percentage of serious bites come from dogs that have broken free from a restraint, and children are usually their victims. I suggest never approaching a dog on a chain or one that is tied up unless you know the dog well.

There are more dog bites reported from family pets than from unfamiliar dogs. The reason more dogs are likely to bite a family member is that the family member more than likely has pulled their tail, stepped on their foot, or taken a bone or toy away and then ignored the warning growl. Children are the main culprits of this behavior. They sometimes unknowingly provoke a dog bite.

Children are at eye level with dogs, and so can be perceived as posturing back at them, which the dog sees as a challenge or a threat. Some kids constantly jerk things away from dogs, and this causes the dog to want to have possession over something. This behavior is called resource guarding, and dogs have many warning signals when they are guarding their resource. You must be aware of what the signals are and take warning from them to avoid a dog bite.



Children should always be supervised when playing with a dog and need to be taught to be respectful of them and their territory. Just like we teach children how to greet another human we also need to teach them how to greet an unfamiliar dog.

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Tips For Photographing Your Pet

If you have ever tried to take a picture of your dog, you will realize how hard it is to capture the pups full personality and beauty in a photograph. Dogs aren’t human, and they don’t understand what we are doing when we try to take their photo. They may think that the camera is a toy and charge at you, instead of striking a pose. If you follow these tips, and take your cues from your pet, you can be assured of great photos of your pet.
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Pets come in all colors. If your dog is dark, you will need to make sure that he doesn’t get lost in your photo due to a dark background. Dark animals photograph best with light colored or neutral back grounds. You can use white, grey, or creamy beige backdrops. You should never take a photo of a Black Lab, or a German Shepherd, against a dark background. It conceals the true color of your dog, and the dark background can also conceal the true size, shape and proportions of your pet.

The same rules apply with pets that have light coats. If you have an apricot or white puppy, you would not place her in front of a white wall for a picture. Photographs of animals need to capture the color and texture of their coats. If you have a white toy poodle, you would want to place her on, or in front of, a black, blue or brown backdrop. This will assure that the poodle’s springy white curls are the focus of the picture. It is important that you choose a background that compliments your dog, and doesn’t hide its beauty.

The hardest thing to do is to get your pet to sit still for a photo. The best time to arrange a photo session with your pet is when they are tired, or sleepy. One trick is to lay the correct color of sheet or blanket over your couch or chair. Allow your pet to lie there after he has had a good half hour of vigorous play. Once your dog appears to start dozing off, get its attention by a low whistle, a squeak from a squeaky toy, or the sight of a treat. Treat Your Pet to Omaha Steaks Pet Treats!

The animal will perk up immediately and appear to be wide awake. It is important that you are ready to snap the shots immediately. For a larger dog you can drape its bed with the correct color of sheet or blanket. It is also best to take your pet’s picture when they are well fed. That way they are not distracted by wanting food while they are modeling for you. The treats you hold up will be more a curiosity item to them, instead of a hopeful dinner.

In professional animal pictures, usually the full body of the animal is shown. This allows the viewer to get a general idea of the size and proportions of the animal. It also will allow the viewer to get an idea of the animal’s general health and appearance. You wouldn’t want to have just a head shot of your pet if it had unique colorings that made it cute. Some animals appear to be wearing little white socks on their paws, or the ends of their tails may appear to have been dipped in a paint bucket. Be sure that your picture captures all of the unique things about your entire dog.

However, if your dog just has an irresistible face, you can take head shots. Some pets will appear to smile when they are very happy. Nothing says “love me” like an innocent puppy face. You need to be conscious of the background. Even if the color is right, if it’s cluttered it will be distracting and take away from the pet. It is also important to make sure that your pet is in the center of the shot, and that it is not cropped off just before the tip of the ears, or tail.

When you are taking photos of your pets, it is important that you are at least at the animal’s eye level, or below. This gives the picture the sense of being from the dog’s viewpoint. You can accomplish this by elevating your dog to a higher position, like the stair case, or furniture. Or, you can lay on your stomach to achieve the same results. You need to zoom in as close as possible, while still capturing the entire body of your dog. You can edit out any red eye, later.

It is best to use a digital camera when you are photographing animals. With digital cameras you are not out any extra money for the photos that didn’t take because Spot looked away. With a digital camera you are free to take as many pictures of your animal as you like, so snap away. You can choose the best ones later, and delete the rest. You have more freedom with a digital camera. You are not constrained to just a set number of pictures, and you do not have to sit and wonder if they worked while they are getting developed.

If you plan to take pictures of your pet outside, it is best to do this early in the morning, or late in the evening. The natural lighting is better for photographs during these periods of the day. You still need to keep in mind the color choices of your background. You can take a picture of your black puppy sitting on a white patio, or in front of your home if you have light colored siding, or brick.

You can take a picture of your white dog in a flower bed that has black mulch, or sitting in front of a dark brick wall. Most animals can obey the command of sitting. Some animals will even sit if they have a leash on, even if it is not being held. Outdoor, natural lighting works the best when you want to show the texture of your animal’s coat.

The expression of your dog is one of the most important things you need to keep in mind when you are photographing your animal. If your animal is ill, or having a bad day, you may want to reschedule your photo session to a later time. A wet and moist looking nose is a must in all pet photos. If your pet is feeling unwell, they probably aren’t up for their photo being taken.

If your breed of pet should have perky ears, and they are lying down because the pet is not as cheery as usual, you should postpone your picture taking, as well. You should never take a picture of your pet if they have runny eyes due to an infection. Wait until your pet is doctored and feeling more like their cheery, upbeat self.

You can take action shots of your pet. Does your pet like to catch a Frisbee or herd sheep? To capture your pet in action you must learn what photographers term “panning.” The key to panning is to follow along with your pet as they are moving. You need to click away capturing them throughout their activity. You can choose a film that is made for action shots to get good results.

You know your pet and what excites them. Does your pet like to stand on two feet and beg for a certain toy, or treat? If so, then get someone to assist you during this photo. They can interact with the dog while you snap the pictures. These shots are great ways of showing the personality of your dog. Does your dog like to tilt its head when it hears a certain noise? Then be ready to capture their photo while your assistant provides the noise. Does your dog like to hide in the shrubs, or get playful with a ball? You can also capture these types of photos if you are tuned in and ready with your camera.

Photographs are a great way of preserving the beauty and personality of an animal. Just keep in mind back ground color, and try to photograph your pet for still shots when they are well fed and somewhat sleepy. If you photograph outside, try to arrange your photo time in the morning or late evening hours,

and don’t take their pictures directly facing the sun. Make sure your pet is feeling physically well so that their personality can be captured, and if you use a digital camera you won’t have to worry about wasting film. If you take action shots, practice the panning technique. If your pet performs tricks, enlist the aid of a helper and photograph your animal performing. Photographs will be around forever, and if you do them correctly they can reveal a lot about your pet. Take your cues from your animal and you will have wonderful photographs every time.
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