Sunday, July 29, 2007

Foot And Nail Care: Clipping Your Dog's Nails

Don't let the fear of hurting your dog keep you from taking good care of her feet and nails. Clipping her nails will be as easy as clipping your own nails once you learn how it's done.

All dogs need proper foot and nail care. Nails that are not kept short will grow too long and become irritating and painful to the dog. It can also cause the feet to splay, or spread, and nails can actually curl around and grow into a dog's pads.

Don't all dogs naturally wear down their nails?

Most dogs, especially those kept indoors, will need their nails clipped regularly. A dog that walks on hard surfaces or that is outside a lot may have their nails naturally worn down to an acceptable length. But the average dog spends most of its time indoors, or walks on surfaces too soft to wear the nails down, like grass or carpet.

What type of nail clippers is best for my dog?

For medium to large dogs, use either the guillotine type nail clippers, or large scissor type nail clippers. For small dogs and puppies, use the scissor-type clippers. If the puppy is a small-breed, the owner can continue to use the scissor type. For puppies that will grow to be medium- to large-breed dogs, switch to using the guillotine-type clippers.

How do I clip my dog's nails?

Hold your dog's foot and gently push down with your thumb at the base of each nail. This will cause the nail to extend slightly, making it easier for you to see the nail. Trim each nail at a 45-degree angle away from the dog so that the newly cut nail is flush with the floor when they walk. There is a blood vessel, called the quick, in each nail. Do not cut the nail so short that it cuts into the quick. It will bleed and could be painful to the dog. If this happens, apply a coagulant (a substance that causes blood to clot) to the nail to stop the bleeding.

How do I find the "quick" in my dog's nails?

The pinkish color of the quick is easy to see in dogs with light-colored nails. However, it is almost impossible to see the quick on dark dogs that have dark nails. Try to locate the quick from the underside of each nail before you begin cutting. Cut each nail back just a little at a time until you get close, but not right up to, the quick.

What is a dewclaw, and does it need to clipped like the other nails?
A dewclaw is a fifth claw on the inside of the leg (typically only the front legs) just slightly above the other claws. If a dog does have dewclaws, those should be trimmed just like the other nails.

Will it hurt my dog's nails if I put polish on them?

No. Use an epoxy enamel made for dogs, not a human nail polish. These pet polishes come in several colors, dry quickly, and will not chip off easily. Apply a coat of polish one foot at a time, keeping the toes separated. These nail polishes are designed to dry quickly, but an impatient dog could still smudge the polish onto its coat.



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Monday, July 23, 2007

Do I Really Need To Brush My Dog's Teeth?

As a responsible pet owner, you owe it to your pet to take her dental care seriously, both professionally and at home. If you start as early as possible in your dog's life getting her accustomed to having her mouth handled, then dental care should be as easy as feeding her.

Periodontal Disease:

The number one health problem. Do you know what the most common health problem is in dogs? It's periodontal disease. Eighty percent of domestic dogs three years and older are affected by infection of the gums. Yet it's one of the most overlooked problems by pet owners.

What are some possible signs of dental disease?

Bad breath

Discolored teeth

Red or swollen gums

Loss of teeth

Difficulty in chewing and eating

Weight loss

Broken or missing teeth

Nasal discharge

Blood in the saliva

Drooling

Tearing or swelling below one eye

How does a dog get periodontal disease?

Periodontal disease starts with plaque. This is the white film that accumulates on our teeth. If the plaque is not removed through regular teeth brushing, it will mineralize (harden) and turn into tartar. As the tartar builds, the plaque continues to accumulate and infect the gums. This infection can eventually enter the bloodstream and cause disease in the heart, lungs, liver and kidneys.

How can periodontal disease be prevented?

Unfortunately, periodontal disease cannot be reversed. It can, however, be slowed or stopped with proper dental care. There are several things you can do to prevent this disease from affecting your pet:



Brush your pet's teeth regularly.

Feed your pet a nutritionally balanced diet.

Provide your pet a dental chew toys and chew items.

Get regular dental exams by a veterinarian.

Brush your pet's teeth regularly.

Your pet's teeth should be brushed as often as possible, ideally every day. Try to get in the habit of brushing your pet's teeth after you brush your own. You can purchase toothbrushes made especially for pets, or you can use a soft child's toothbrush, a finger toothbrush, a gauze pad around a finger, or a cotton swab. Use toothpaste specially formulated for pets. These have ingredients that continue to work in the mouth even after brushing. Canine toothpaste has a special food flavoring to make it more appealing to your pet.

Stay away from human toothpaste, baking soda or salt. Many dogs don't like the foaming action these give, and they may upset their digestive systems. Try to reach the inside surfaces of the teeth, and the back upper molars. These teeth tend to quickly build up tartar. Feed a nutritionally balanced diet, preferably dry.
A hard, crunchy premium food will scrape against the teeth and help keep bacteria from growing.

Provide dental chew toys and chew items.

Not only are they fun for your dog, but he doesn't even realize how good they are for him. Supply your dog with plenty of teeth cleaning chew toys and bones, especially knobby toys, rope toys and floss toys. Rawhide is another chew item that rubs against the dog's teeth and removes harmful plaque.

Get regular dental exams by a veterinarian.

Have your pet's teeth professionally cleaned regularly. Frequency of cleanings depends on each pet's individual needs, so consult your veterinarian at least once a year.

How do I get my dog used to brushing?

Get your pet accustomed to having your fingers in his mouth. Squeeze a bit of toothpaste on your finger and place your finger between the cheek and gum. As your pet licks the paste, praise him calmly. Once he's comfortable with that, you can place the toothpaste on the toothbrush and do the same thing. Soon your pet will be comfortable with the process. Spend only a few seconds at first, then build up to spending a minute or so brushing the teeth.


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Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Choosing The Right Caregiving Option When You're Away

Whether you're a seasoned corporate traveler or a confirmed homebody, as a pet owner there'll likely come a day when you face an issue common to all. What to do with your pals when you leave home? Like many other things in life, there's no right" answer to this question. The option you choose will depend on what's best for you and your pet.


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In-home or Animal Inn:
Not surprisingly, choices for your pets boil down to leaving them home alone or placing them with someone else. Some pets think that kennels are a camp and you wouldn't want to take that experience away from them, says Kay Calzolari of Pet Sitters International (PSI). While others are happiest and less stressed at home surrounded by their familiar sights, smells and sounds.

And, while most professional pet sitters serve as a crime deterrent by opening and closing drapes, turning on and off lights or retrieving the mail and newspaper, this may not be a plus for you. "It really depends on your comfort level with having someone in your home," notes Ryan Dryden of the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (NAPPS). Conversely, not every pet thrives at a boarding kennel. "Some animals adapt better to a pet sitting environment," says Jim Krack of the American Boarding Kennels Association (ABKA). "That's why more and more kennels are offering both pet sitting and boarding services.

Analyze Your Pet:
How do you decide between outplacement and in-home services? First, take an objective look at your pet. Does your pet shred up your toilet paper, rummage in your cabinets or leave a puddle on the days you work late? Does he or she display territorial aggression toward even your closest friends? When alone for extended periods, does he or she fill your apartment with haunting cries? Pets displaying any of these or other disruptive behaviors may be best in the safe, secure setting a kennel provides. On the other hand, if your pet is nervous outside your home, refuses to eat when you're out or becomes despondent and lethargic if you leave him or her at a friend's or neighbor's home for short periods, then the comfort and familiarity of regular turf may be the answer.

The Acid Test:
But, what if you're uncertain or none of these scenarios seems to apply? Only a test drive will tell you for sure. Plan to select a pet sitter or kennel well in advance of your trip. For tips on the pet sitters, check out the NAPPS or PSI web sites. For kennels, see the ABKA. Then, set up a dry run. For an in-home trial, arrange an overnight stay at a friends house for yourself. To make the simulation real, pack up the bag you'll be using to travel and arrange to stay away as long as possible.

During your absence, have your pet sitter observe your companion's behavior closely and take written notes on everything from play activities to appearance of waste materials. Even if all appears normal to an observer, you may detect signs of stress. Use a similar scenario for a boarding kennel, except this time make your pal's preparations as realistic as your own. If you'll be using your kennel's pick-up service, be sure to include it in your experiment. Then, just as with a pet sitter, have your kennel keep a detailed record of your pet's actions.

What About the Guy Next Door?:
No matter which caregiving scenario seems best, avoid the pitfalls of enlisting the aid of a friend, neighbor or relative. Instead, stick with the professionals.
First and foremost it's a professional's job to focus on your pet and your wishes, points out Dryden. For acquaintances, your pet is only one of a myriad of concerns.

In the case of a pet sitter, this means adhering to your behavioral standards to ensure your pet doesn't develop unwelcome habits, such as jumping on people or lounging on your new couch. Perhaps more importantly, professional pet sitters have appropriate strategies to cover the unexpected.

For example, what happens if your acquaintance is called away on a family emergency or comes down with the flu. A professional sitter already has a reliable contingency plan in place for such cases. The same holds true for taking your pet to stay elsewhere. A boarding kennel is a safe, secure, sanitary and professionally-supervised environment," says Krack.

The Great Debate:
As you're investigating which option's right for you, one of the issues you'll run into is the argument over which location, in-home or kennel, presents the greatest health hazard. Kennel advocates say unattended pets left at home can get into household chemicals or harm themselves on other objects, such as the jagged edge of a broken ceramic houseplant pot. Pet sitting proponents counter that kenneled companions are exposed to illnesses and parasites carried by other animals.

Of course there's really no way to protect your pet from every possible catastrophe, just as there's no way to protect yourself from a freak accident. If you opt for boarding, ensure your pet gets the required immunizations and the kennel you select follows the sanitation practices recommended by the ABKA. If a pet sitter is your choice, scrutinize your home from your pet's perspective and remove or lock up anything that might become a lethal toy.

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Have a Great Trip:

By evaluating what's best for your pet and following the advice of professionals, you can expect your absence will be a happy, healthy experience for your loved ones. Remember that one size doesn't fit all, so take whatever time you need to review the options and pick what's right for your pets. Then pack your gear, hug your pals goodbye and enjoy your trip.


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Saturday, July 14, 2007

How To Remove Ticks

Do not use any of the "mythical" methods of removing ticks such as petroleum jelly, cleaning fluid, burning matches or cigarettes. These may irritate the skin and kill the tick, making it difficult to remove intact. Ticks are difficult to remove because their mouth parts are barbed. They also secrete a glue that holds the mouth parts in place while feeding, guarding against easy dislocation.

Using tissue or tweezers, gently grasp the body of the tick and pull directly away from the point of attachment. Do not jerk or twist.

If the mouth parts break off in the skin, use a sterilized needle to remove as you would a splinter.



Wash the bite area with soap and water and apply an antiseptic such as alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.

Wash your hands thoroughly.

Mark the date of the tick bite on the calendar. Watch for symptoms of disease in the upcoming weeks.


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Monday, July 9, 2007

Pet Emergency Information

We know how important the well-being of your special pet is to you. Of course, you always make sure they are vaccinated and have had their check-ups, but sometimes the unexpected happens. It could be something right in your own house. What do you do? We have put together some tips to help your pet in case of an emergency.

Take a pet first aid class or buy a first aid care guide.

Always call ahead to let the vet know you are coming in with an emergency.

Transport injured pets in a large blanket, which can be used as a stretcher and keep them warm.

Pet Poisoning:

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Family pets risk all kinds of poisoning every day; things like insecticides, weed killers, antifreeze, acids, fertilizers, paints. The list is extensive.


Here's what you can do if your pet is poisoned:

Keep your pet warm and quiet.

Try to determine what the poison was, when it was ingested and the amount swallowed.

Immediately call your veterinarian or your nearest poison control center.

When you take your pet to the vet, bring the label or container of poison with you.

Keep poisonous materials properly stored and out of reach of pets.

Keep emergency numbers handy by the phone.

Heatstroke:

Heatstroke kills family pets every year because they are left in cars on warm days. Look for signs of rapid breathing, panting or collapse.

What you should do:

Remove your pet to a shaded or cool area.

Sponge or hose your pet down with cool water (do not use ice).

Encourage your pet to drink small amounts of water.

Contact your veterinarian for further instructions.

Cuts and Wounds:

Deep cuts and wounds are common in pets due to broken glass and sharp objects.

If your pet is bleeding:

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Apply firm, continuous pressure directly over the bleeding site using thick gauze pads or clean cloths to control bleeding.

If the area is painful, you may need to muzzle or restrain your pet to avoid bites.

Transport your pet immediately to the nearest emergency veterinarian hospital or your veterinarian's office.

Shock:

Shock is the result of an injury or disease to the body that produces inadequate blood circulation. Pets in shock show signs of weakness, grey gums, shallow breathing, a weak pulse and may collapse. Immediately:

Transport your pet to the nearest veterinary hospital or emergency clinic.

Wrap your pet in a blanket to keep him warm and comfortable.

First aid can be attempted while on route to the hospital.

Do not give your pet any water or food.

Keep the head slightly lower than the body and the tongue extended to keep the breathing path open.



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Saturday, July 7, 2007

How To Control Shedding In Dogs

How To Control Shedding In Dogs

You can't stop shedding completely, but you can help to control it before it ends up all over your house. The key to controlling shedding is daily brushing and combing, which not only helps to remove dead hair, but keeps your dog's coat and skin in top condition.

Shedding is a very normal occurrence for your dog. Some dogs shed more than others. Shorthaired dogs such as Labradors and Doberman Pinschers shed year-round and should be groomed once or twice a week. Long-haired dogs don't shed any more than short-haired dogs but with hair that can be 10 times as long as a short hair's, the shedding piles up quickly.

Long hairs also require more grooming daily in order to keep their coats smooth and tangle free. If your dog is an outdoor pet, you may find that he sheds his winter coat in the spring, rather than shed all year round like indoor dogs. If you would like a dog that sheds less and requires less grooming, consider a Poodle, Bichon Frise or Old English Sheepdog.

Smooth Coats (Boxer)
Frequency: 1-2 times per week.
Start with a rubber brush to loosen the dead hair and surface dirt. Follow with a bristle brush to remove the dead hair. Use a conditioner to keep the hair soft.

Silky Coats (Terrier)
Frequency: 3-4 times per week.
Start with a slicker brush to remove tangles. Follow with a bristle brush to distribute the natural oils and give your pet's coat a healthy shine. If you need to trim your dog's hair, first use a comb to comb the hair straight down.

Long Coats (Sheepdogs)
Frequency: Daily.
Start with a slicker brush to remove tangles and mats. Follow with a pin brush to ensure that there are no large tangles left. And complete with a wide toothed comb to remove all small tangles.

Note: If your dog sheds to the point where bald patches begin to show through the fur, you should consult a veterinarian.


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Wednesday, July 4, 2007

How Do I Clean My Dog's Ears?

Checking your dog's ears is part of a regular grooming routine. You should check your dog's ears on a weekly basis. You want to make sure there is no inflammation, nasty odor, or redness around the ear flaps. If you suspect inflammation, take your dog to the vet.

You can clean the excess dirt with a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil or alcohol. If you use a cotton swab, make sure you can always see the cotton end, and keep the swab pointed down, not towards the head. Also, be very careful not to push debris back into the ear canal.

If your dog scratches or shakes his head often, you should check for ear mites. These crablike creatures are difficult to see, but you should look for the debris they leave behind - a brownish black discharge that look like coffee grounds. Take your dog to the veterinarian to confirm. Your vet will then direct you on how to use the ear drops to rid your dog of these pests.



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Sunday, July 1, 2007

Dog Grooming Tools

Dog Grooming Tools:
Brushing on a regular basis removes loose hair and keeps the skin clean. This reduces the chance of getting any skin diseases or parasites. Natural oils are more evenly distributed over the coat, which allow individual hairs to lie more smoothly and look shinier.For long haired and double-coated breeds, brushing will remove dead hair from the undercoat before it mats, and new hair growth will be stimulated. It also allows shampoo to penetrate down to the skin during bathing.

How often should I brush?

That depends on the type of coat your dog has. If it is long and thick, you'll spend more time and need to brush more often. If your dog's coat is short and smooth, a quick once-over a couple of times per week does the job. Dogs with long, flowing hair should be brushed every day. Dogs with coats somewhere in between these two benefit from a brushing 3 to 5 times a week.

What type of brush should I use on my dog?

The type of brush depends on your dog's coat. You may actually find that using a combination of two different brushes gives you the best results for your dog's coat.

Slicker Brush:

The slicker brush is a good brush to use on all breeds to remove dead hair. This curved-wire bristle brush is especially recommended for long or dense coats, and tangled and matted coats.

Pin Brush:

The pin brush works well on dogs with long, flowing hair such as the Lhasa Apso and the Yorkshire Terrier. The tips of the bristles are rounded and smooth to avoid skin abrasions.

Traditional Bristle Brush:

Those brushes that look most like human brushes are used to polish and add shine to the coat. These work best on dogs with short coats, and dogs with long, flowing coats, such as Afgan hounds or Maltese.

Hound Glove:

A hound glove has the bristles of a slicker brush embedded into a glove, or mitt. This serves the same purpose as a slicker brush, but some prefer slipping their hand into a glove rather than holding the handle of a brush.

Rubber Grooming Mitt:

These mitts are used on shorthaired dogs to polish and add shine to the coat once dead hairs are removed.

Undercoat Rake:

The best-kept secret of the grooming tools! Also known as a rake comb, it is ideal for removing dead undercoat hair and is best used on coarse-textured or large breed dogs, such as the Golden Retriever, Collie or Samoyed. You'll generally see one to three rows of teeth that are long and spaced far apart.

Combs:

Combs can be fine-toothed, medium-toothed, wide-toothed, or a combination of these. The fine-toothed comb is used for soft, thin or silky coats. The medium-toothed comb is used for average coat textures. The wide-toothed comb is used for thick, heavy coats.

Flea Combs:

Flea combs are very fine-toothed combs that are generally used for removing parasites. However, this comb is also very useful as an extra-fine-toothed facial comb that can remove residue and dirt caked in the facial hair around the eyes.
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