Tips On Dog Grooming

Grooming your dog accomplishes much more than just making your pet's coat look nice and shiny. It will provide you with the opportunity to spend some "quality time" with your dog.
You will be able to check your dog closely for any problems while grooming. Move the hair aside and examine the skin closely for signs of fleas, ticks or skin irritations. Look for any unusual problems with the coat such as mats, tangles, dandruff, etc. Mats and tangles can be carefully removed while grooming.

Learn where your pet likes to be combed and brushed and where he or she doesn't. All dogs have sensitive areas that need to be groomed a little more gently and carefully than others. By paying special attention to these areas, you will help make your dog more comfortable while being groomed, and he or she will not resist future grooming sessions.

You will also become familiar with areas that your pet enjoys having groomed. This is helpful if you need to calm him or her during stressful times such as veterinary visits. Let your dog sniff the brush and comb before you begin grooming, and then talk to your pet in a reassuring tone while grooming. If the grooming procedure is made comfortable for your dog, he or she will begin to look forward to regular grooming sessions.

Health:

Regular grooming is essential to your dog's health and well-being. Regular combing and brushing will keep the coat clean and healthy. It will stimulate the skin, and allow the natural oils to circulate to the coat. It will also allow your to carefully check for potentially serious problems. Check areas for hair loss, inflammation, unusual tenderness, or lumps under the skin. Constant scratching in a particular area may also be an indication of a problem. Check with your veterinarian about any unusual problems found.

Combing:

Comb in the direction of hair growth, combing small sections at a time, until the coat is tangle free. For troublesome knots and tangles, use an anti-tangle comb. If the coat has a particularly stubborn knot or tangle, you may have to trim it off with scissors. A dematting comb, slicker, or rake can be used to remove mats. When using a combination comb, begin with the widely spaced teeth, and follow with the finer teeth.

Brushing:

Begin brushing at the head, working toward the tail and down the legs. Always brush in the direction of hair growth. Pay particular attention to the legs and flanks, and areas that easily mat. A pin brush can be used to fluff the coat by brushing against the directions of hair growth. Regular brushing will help distribute the natural oils from the skin, producing a healthy, shiny coat. Brushing several times a week is recommended for most dogs.

Puppies:

Like children, puppies have short attention spans. They will require some special attention. Select a time when the puppy is less energetic. Begin with short grooming sessions, five minutes or so. Constantly talk to your puppy in a gentle, reassuring tone while grooming to make him feel comfortable. Be sure to check his or her ears, paws, teeth, and underside during the grooming procedure. This will, in time, make your pet accustomed to being handled and examined. Eventually, your pet will be quite comfortable being groomed, and will look forward to these sessions with you.

Frequency:

It is important to establish and adhere to a regular schedule of grooming sessions. Schedule these at a convenient time for both you and your dog. A good time to do this is after the dog has been walked, while he or she is relieved and calm. Select a time when you will not be interrupted and have ample time to do a proper grooming longhaired dogs should be groomed daily, while shorthaired breeds may require grooming only twice a week. You will soon see what frequency your dog requires.

Nail Trimming:

Regular nail trimming is important to your dog's health and well-being. Never use ordinary scissors to trim your dog's nails. Use trimmers that are specially designed for dogs. Hold the dog's paw firmly, and cut off the tip of the nail with a single stroke. Be very careful to stop short of the quick, the blood vessel inside the nail. Cutting the nails right after bathing will make the quick more visible; applying baby oil will serve the same purpose. Follow up by filing your dog's nails with a nail file.



Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Separation Anxiety In Dogs

Dog owners, when they get together, will tell stories of their amazing, brilliant, astonishing and misbehaving dogs. How many times have you heard about the pet who, displeased by its owners’ absence, left a “present” of the most unpleasant kind?. The truth is – he didn’t do it out of spite. Dogs aren’t people. People are the only animals that have an idea of “spite, revenge, or getting even. That’s not to say that dogs don’t have emotions – any dog owner knows better. But most will agree that dogs aren’t planners – they live completely in the moment - a skill humans can only attempt.

The only time to correct a dog for improper behavior is when you catch the dog in the act. Revisiting the scene of the crime doesn’t help. The dog doesn’t remember committing the crime. Yelling at the dog when you find the mess teaches the dog that finding a mess is bad. Therefore, in dog logic, it will learn to hide the mess, not refrain from creating it. If you’ve been tempted to accuse your dog of spiteful behavior because it does leave messes when you’re gone, it’s time to rethink what’s going on. Your dog isn’t telling you that it’s angry you left – it’s telling you it’s anxious and unsure when you’re not there.

It’s been said many times that dogs are pack animals. If you are the leader of the pack as you should be, then your dog is, for its entire life, a juvenile member of the group. Your dog may be a victim of separation anxiety; it doesn’t know what to do when its leader isn’t there to tell him. Now that we understand, somewhat, how a dog thinks, we can use that to create the behavior we want. Crate training your dog is a good way to alleviate many sources of anxiety – both yours and your dog’s. A crate, or cage, is civilization’s answer to a cave or den. Your dog can feel safe and secure in its den. A crate should be big enough to allow the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. That’s it.

Don’t project your claustrophobia onto your dog. It likes feeling safe, secure and enclosed. It likes not being responsible for checking out every noise. It’s happy when it has no decisions to make. Never let a dog make a decision – it will choose wrong. There are people who resist the idea of a crate. They think they are being kind to the dog. And there are some dogs who do not need their crates past puppy hood. But if your dog is prone to separation anxiety, you’ll both be better off with a crate. If you’ve never used a crate, or put it away as your dog matured, introduce it gradually. Leave it out, door open. Feed the dog in the crate.

Throw toys into the crate for it to fetch. Never, ever use the crate as punishment, nor as a substitute for a trip outside to eliminate. Dogs shouldn’t be left alone more than six to eight hours. If your schedule requires an animal to be left alone 10 or 12 hours a day – get a dogwalker, or settle for a cat. When you begin crate training, only leave the dog in the crate for a few minutes. Have a special treat or toy that the dog gets only in his crate. Many people use a hollow rubber toy with a bit of peanut butter or soft cheese spread inside. Happily tell your dog it’s time to kennel, (the word you choose doesn’t matter, just be consistent) and put the toy in the crate.

If the dog doesn’t come go get it. Never tell your dog to come to you for something it doesn’t enjoy. Place it in the crate, close the latch and walk away. Just a few minutes the first time. If the dog whines or cries, ignore it. When it’s quiet, let the dog out and tell her she’s wonderful. Build up the time your dog is left in the crate gradually. Conventional wisdom says that the first 15 minutes are the best indicator. If the dog settles within that time he’ll be fine. And you’ll both be happy. Fido has no decisions to make and you’ll have no messes to clean.




Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Things You Should Know About Your Dog

You’ve probably had a day or two when you felt like your dog just wasn’t paying any attention to you at all, right? You talked, you yelled, you shouted, maybe you jumped up and down and waved your arms, but she just wasn’t interested in anything you had to say to her in any tone of voice. You’re not alone.

1. Your dog isn’t human.

Unless you believe in pet psychics, there’s really no way for you to read your pooch’s mind and figure out exactly what she’s thinking. The good news is that, like many dog owners, the problems you’re having can probably be traced to one simple thing: you’re trying to communicate with your dog from a human standpoint, and your dog isn’t a human. Sure, you know that, but lots of humans try to relate with their dogs in the ways that they think are rational as humans. The problem is that dogs are driven in every act and every moment by very strong instincts. Deciphering those instincts and leveraging them to build a productive relationship is like finding the keys to the city.

2. Your dog doesn't speak English.

Take the word “no,” for example. Does your dog speak English? Not understand English. Does she speak it?
What’s meaningful to her is your tone of voice, not the word itself. Now let’s think about that – we’re
taking up excess time trying to teach our dog a word she’ll never speak and that probably doesn’t mean
much to her anyway. Sure, it’s meaningful to us, but that’s only one side of the equation. What about
something that’s meaningful to both human and dog?

3. You know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means.

If you think that mutually meaningful language doesn’t exist, you’re not thinking creatively enough. What does it say to you when a dog growls at you? Anything from get away from my
food to “back off, dude,” right? Yet in every case, a dog’s growl typically means that she is not happy with whatever you’ve done. And you’ve seen dogs react to other dogs’ growls, right? So you know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means. Where’s the disconnect? Growl at your dog!

No, seriously. The next time your pooch starts stepping outside her bounds or doing something you don’t like, growl at her. A nice, strong, guttural growl that would put the alpha wolf in a pack to shame. While you’re growling, look directly into her eyes. You’re almost guaranteed that she’ll back off.

4. Instincts save time and communicate effectively.

See that? You worked with her instinct and the information hardwired into her brain, and the result was instantaneous. Why spend tons of time trying to work against that instinct and end up frustrated, angry, and still miscommunications? This approach works in everything from basic discipline to full-on obedience training. You just need to figure out how to apply it in each of those situations.

I’d like to help you learn to apply it, and that’s why I created the multimedia presentation Instinct vs. Man. It addresses day-to-day life with your dog as well as specific topics like playtime, training, and territory. Beyond that, you’ll get some great insight into why your dog thinks the way she does and how it affects her actions and reactions. You’ll understand why those months of training stopped working after a few weeks and how to get her back into the routine and acting like the fun, upbeat dog you love.



Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Understanding Your Pet's Chewing Issues

If you are beginning to feel like an endangered species surrounded by the chewed up remnants of your previous existence, fear not. First of all you are not alone. There are dog owners like you suffering the same fate and having the same problems getting their otherwise delightful pet to cease and desist from devouring hearth at home. Not only that, but people, experienced dog owner type people, have spent a great deal of time and energy on solving the problem.

Your first step in the direction of rehabilitation is the same as it is with any such process. You need to establish the exact nature of the problem. If your pet is a newly acquired puppy then rampant chewing goes with the territory. It is a natural response to teething. If your pet is past puppy-hood and showing no sign of quitting or, if your mature pet inexplicably begins chewing away at stuff, this is a sign of a more serious problem that needs attention.

Pets of all kinds can be divided into aggressive chewers and non-aggressive chewers. Aggressive chewers annihilate what they chew and sometimes swallow the pieces - often in one sitting. Non-aggressive chewers gnaw, play and mouth toys without actually breaking them. Many theories attempt to pinpoint certain dog breeds as most likely to chew aggressively but, the fact is, it's more personality related than it is breed related.

If your dearly beloved pet is still a puppy you will need to work out which category of chewer he or she is as this is an important fact to take into consideration when shopping from the broad range of dog toys available. If your dog is an aggressive chewer you will need to buy dog toys that are chewy and rubbery as well as super strong and durable.
Because aggressive chewers are inclined to bite and then swallow toys that are brittle, they must be literally unbreakable. Some manufacturers actually sell toys with an impressive 100% product replacement if the animal manages to destroy it. Aggressive chewers need their own type of toy made of tough rubber and rawhide. They need to be kept well clear of toys that lesser chewers would be safe with.

Black Kongs are ideal for these enthusiastic chewers, so are toys like the jumbo retriever rolls otherwise known as 'chronic chew toys'. These are wound out of several feet of rawhide compacted into one giant roll. Even the most vociferous of chewing pets can do no better than wear away at the exterior leaving the tightly wound core still intact. Pressed rawhide bone-shaped toys are also good options for the aggressive chewer who must be protected from his or her own capacity to reduce an innocent toy to sharp, dangerous shards that may injure the pet's esophagus when swallowed.

If your mature pet is chewing and she is past teething and puppy-hood then there is a possibility that the chewing may be the symptom of a displaced anxiety. Here's where you will need to play dog psychologist and spend time with your pet to discern what is troubling him or her. Are you spending enough time with your pet? Does he get enough attention? Exercise? Has there been a recent disturbance in the household routine that the pet may be responding to?

Your pet is a barometer for any stress or disruption in the environment. Taking up chewing becomes a comforting action for the disturbed dog. You will need to spend more supervised time with your pet reeducating him or her on the rewarding consequences of desirable behavior. Pets are very much like children in this way. They will do anything to get attention even if it means demolishing the surrounding environment. Don't be slow to enlist the aid of an expert when tackling chronic chewing problems. A fresh and educated viewpoint may save everyone a great deal of frustration.



Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

How To Stop Your Puppy From Nipping

A puppy is the equivalent of human baby/toddler, they do things that we know they shouldn't, but they don't realize it for themselves. The responsibility of training your puppy to not nip or bite falls upon You, their owner and the pack leader.

Playing with Siblings

During playtime, puppies chew their other siblings, they need to play because your puppy is socializing themselves with others. Amongst themselves they will show each other what is acceptable within the pack and without you knowing your puppy is learning the rights and wrongs. People are not 'other puppies', we are the pack leaders and do not tolerate antisocial pack behavior, so it is up to us to demonstrate how we play, without the nipping. Puppy Training Secrets!

Play Games

Playing with our puppy is essential, at their age it is what our puppy wants to do. These sessions should be treated as an opportunity to teach you puppy, in a fun and enthusiastic way. The games you play can also affect whether your puppy bites you during play. Tug of war games can encourage your puppy to bite anything and everything. Instead, play retrieving games with your puppy. With retrieval toys you'll soon find which item, for other training days, is best suited to 'bribe' your little friend.

Children Playing

If children live with your puppy, teach them how to play responsibly. No wrestling or tug of war, of course, but they should also learn not to play run away games. If a child runs, the puppy is going to want to chase. Your puppy is going to want to catch them and will try to catch by grabbing with those sharp puppy teeth! Kids need to learn to interact with the puppy by throwing toys for her to fetch or by petting. Dog Food Conspiracy!

Biting = Stop Playing

If your puppy tries to bite or chew on you during play, stop the game. You can tell her, "NO! No bite!" and immediately move your hands and arms out of reach, stand up and turn away. Ignore your puppy, they will want to know what has changed, so they will 'enquire' and come around to face you. When the biting stops and your puppy has settled then calmly praise. You will have to repeat this lesson several times, but she'll gradually learn that biting you means the fun and games stop.

It Takes Time

During your efforts to teach your puppy not to bite people, keep in mind too, that this is a very natural behavior for your puppy. You will need to take your time and be patient. You'll also need to be consistent (as does everyone else in the family). Keep in mind that in dog training, aggression begets aggression. When you tell her puppy not to bite, be firm and consistent but don't be rough. If you are aggressive toward your puppy, your puppy will react with fear or will be aggressive in return. Dog Training To Stop Your Dog Behavioral Problems!

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California
To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Choosing The Best Vet For Your Dog

If you haven't already found one, or worked with one in the past, you need to find a vet. Pick one you feel comfortable with, and who answers your questions in full, completely and gives you answers you can understand. You don't need a vet who talks down to you, or acts like you're too dumb to understand what they're saying.

Find a vet, if possible, who specializes in small animals (as opposed to one who treats large and small like horses, cows, cats and dogs.) Your community may only have vets that do a little bit of everything and there's nothing wrong with that, if that's all that's available, but I'll remind you you usually go to a specialist for your health issues, don't you?

If you're new in the community, or haven't needed a vet before word of mouth is a great way to start looking for a new vet. Ask everybody you can get your hands on co-workers, friends with pets, local humane societies or shelters. Ask questions- are they happy with their vet? Do they like the way they're treated when they take their dogs in?

If your dog is a particular breed, check with the local or state breed associations to find out who they use, or local breeders. This can be especially useful if you buy a puppy from a local breeder, because the vet will have seen your puppy and know at least some of his history. You may want a holistic vet. Go to their website at www.ahvma.org and check out their referral directory. Or contact them via phone at (410) 569-0795

You may also be interested in a veterinarian who has been trained in acupuncture through the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society. Call 970-266-0666. Once you have a referral from someone you trust, here are some questions to ask:

1. What services does the vet offer?

Is it a one-doctor office, or a multi-doctor practice? As vets try to streamline services many are consolidating practices and forming partnerships and group practices. There's nothing wrong with this just be aware that you may not always see the same vet. And find out if they offer 24 hour emergency services, or if he or she is affiliated with someone in the area who does. Like everything else in life, illness or accidents don't always happen between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday.

2. Does the vet offer a full surgery suite with on-site lab work? X-rays? Ultrasound?

If the vet has to send all lab tests to an outside agency to be processed, you may be getting popped with additional charges because those tests aren't being performed or processed in-house.

3. Get a fee schedule.

Cost is usually one of the biggest considerations for dog owners, and it should be lowest on the list of importance, at least in my mind. Not because cost isn't important of course it is, but if you have a vet that you're happy with who gives your dog the best care you can possibly find in your area does paying a little extra for that care really matter in the long run?

4. Check out the physical characteristics of the facility.

Is it clean, or does it smell? Are the ads or magazines in the waiting room current? (That may not sound important, but if the staff and doctors aren't keeping up to date on the latest and greatest information, this may not be the place you want to bring your dog.)

5. Communication by that I mean how well does your vet communicate with you?

Will he or she explain the condition or illness in terms that you can easily understand, or do they try to confuse you with high-tech or medical jargon? A good vet will go over treatment options with you, explain necessary tests, review x-rays or test results, give complete and clear instructions for home care or further testing requirements, etc. Take your time to do a complete and thorough evaluation before choosing a new vet. Your dog's life literally depends on what choice you make. Make it a careful one.

Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso

Protect Your Pet From Toxic Plants

Have you checked your yard for flowers or plants that may be toxic to your pet? If you have a cat or dog, you may want to do some research on plants, before you bring them home, to determine which could be harmful to your pet. Here are a few plants that are toxic to cats and dogs.

•Oleander: if your pet comes into contact and eats (or licks) an oleander bush or flower, symptoms may include upset stomach or hypothermia. In cats and dogs hypothermia presents as cool paws, ears and stomach.

•Azalea: symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, and weakness.

•Lilies: in cats symptoms may include vomiting, lethargy and loss of appetite.

•Sago Palm: if your pet consumes any part of a Sago Palm, symptoms might include vomiting, diarrhea and seizures. Other common home and garden plants that are considered to be toxic to your dog or cat include:

•Aloe Vera (commonly used for burns and sunburns)

•Boston Ivy (common ground cover or hanging plant)

•Calla Lilly (flowering plant either indoors or outdoors)

•Bracken Fern (common variety of fern)

If you suspect that your pet has eaten or consumed any plant that may be harmful or toxic, you should consult your veterinarian immediately and/or seek emergency care. When getting ready to plant items in your yard or before bringing home house plants you may want to research the variety first to determine if they are harmful to your cat or dog. One other suggestion: consult your veterinarian to determine what emergency supplies you should have on hand in your home in the event of an emergency.



Obinna Heche: Los Angeles- California

To find excellent information about Dog Training, Dog Behaviour, Dog Obedience Training, Dog Food, Dog Health, Grooming and Dog Care. Everything that concerns Dog Owners and their Dogs.. Visit.. http://myspace.com/biggso